what bracket do I need?

[70chevytruck]

Have an edelbrock carb on on my 70 gmc 402. The switch for the trans kickdown.....what are you guys using to make that work?

[70chevytruck]

Here is a pic of button switch.

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[Boog]

Surely Edelbrock has a bracket for the application?

[70chevytruck]

Haven't found anything from edelbrock. Searched threads.....maybe b and m trans....

[Tx Firefighter]

I have used and been very pleased with the Lokar one.
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[70chevytruck]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

I have used and been very pleased with the Lokar one.
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The lokar hi tek one? Any pictures of the unit installed?

[JOJABOY]

I fabricated my own. But with TH400 & 4.10's I very rarely need a kick down.
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[FirstOwner69]

Originally Posted by 70chevytruck

The lokar hi tek one? Any pictures of the unit installed?

It's not on a 402, and it's a Holley rather than an Edelbrock, but attached are some pictures of the Lokar switch installed (but not yet wired) on my TH400/350 combo. It's mounted on a bracket I fabricated from hardware store 3/4" or 1" aluminum angle. I cut, drilled,contoured and polished the aluminum bracket and bolted it to the left rear carb stud.

Maybe this will give you some ideas.

[Tx Firefighter]

The one I spoke of is the one Firstowner is showing. It's a super slick piece of gear. I mounted mine to the trans pan bolts.

Basically, 100 percent of Lokar products are world class quality. Not cheap, but top notch product for your hard earned money.
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[FettAffen]

Try this one......

Edelbrock 72280 Nitrous Microswitch And Bracket Kit

http://www.ebay.com/itm/160934066489...84.m1423.l2649

Nice thing is it mounts on rear passenger side of carb, less clutter on throttle rod side, still will have room for the overpriced Edlebrock A/C kicker solenoid..lol

I am using the 72280 to replace a butched up mounted factory kickdown switch on a customers 67 c-10 he installed an edlebrock performer manifold and actual real Carter AFB carb with factory turbo 400......

It is a micro switch, I really dont think it will handle the amp draw of the KD solenoid, I recommend a Bosch 30 amp relay wired in and use the micro switch as a ground for the relay to turn it on and off...

The factory Kick down switch is a pretty heavy duty piece, hence no relay.....

[70chevytruck]

Originally Posted by FettAffen

Try this one......

Edelbrock 72280 Nitrous Microswitch And Bracket Kit

http://www.ebay.com/itm/160934066489...84.m1423.l2649

Nice thing is it mounts on rear passenger side of carb, less clutter on throttle rod side, still will have room for the overpriced Edlebrock A/C kicker solenoid..lol

I am using the 72280 to replace a butched up mounted factory kickdown switch on a customers 67 c-10 he installed an edlebrock performer manifold and actual real Carter AFB carb with factory turbo 400......

It is a micro switch, I really dont think it will handle the amp draw of the KD solenoid, I recommend a Bosch 30 amp relay wired in and use the micro switch as a ground for the relay to turn it on and off...

The factory Kick down switch is a pretty heavy duty piece, hence no relay.....

Thanks....cant believe there is not a better option here.

[FettAffen]

Actually there might be, I was going to op for the edelbrock microswitch/relay set up, but after parts and labor kinda expensive........

I got to looking at things and think I found an easy and cheap solution, some GM cars have the turbo 400 kick down switch mounted in the cabin working right off the gas pedal, gave me an idea...... On the 67 you have a square nylon pad in line with the gas pedal rod that goes to the pedal itself, it is the stop for the pedal rod itself when you floor it and that part of the gas pedal rod that hits the stop is flat which is great, the pad pops right out of the firewall and the hole for it is inline with gas pedal rod that goes to the pedal, I ordered a weather proof heavy duty push button switch that looks like this.......

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Heavy-Duty-R...b4b589&vxp=mtr

I will open the hole up for the switch and use the switch as a pedal stop, some large flat washers, install, then adjust depth with proper size washers so when you floor it it will activate switch.....

Then hook up wires from old switch, cover it nicely the part that protrudes in the engine compartment in 3m strip caulk since it is in a pretty harsh enviroment and the strip caulk will make it weatherproof and done...... For less then $10.00 in parts you have a heavy duty 16 amp kick down switch with no brackets, no relays and simple.....

Also the way my customer drives I think the little rubber weather proof boot will last a long time as he dont punch it often........

If you dont want to drill holes in your truck, the Edelbrock microswitch set up is the way to go, but if you dont mind enlarging an existing hole in the firewall then the push button set up...up to you For me, it all comes down to money the customer wants to spend.... $100.00 parts and labor for it to downshift is pricey in his eyes which I can understand since I am doing so much other stuff to the truck for him which aint cheap.......

Will tell you how it works out.....

[FettAffen]

Here is my 10 dollar turbo 400 kickdown switch......

Wanted to get a pic before I seal up switch from elements.......

Popped out factory pedal stop in firewall, used the diegrinder to make a perfect hole for switch, made hole a little to the left to align with gas pedal, 3m strip caulk around switch base, installed nut, then weather cover.....

[Ol Blue K20]

Originally Posted by FettAffen

Here is my 10 dollar turbo 400 kickdown switch......

Wanted to get a pic before I seal up switch from elements.......

Popped out factory pedal stop in firewall, used the diegrinder to make a perfect hole for switch, made hole a little to the left to align with gas pedal, 3m strip caulk around switch base, installed nut, then weather cover.....

Quite ingenious I would say, very creative.

[FettAffen]

Why thank you


And since it is a higher amp switch don't need to use a relay