I HATE brake lines

[gramps77]

what do you guys use to get the brake lines loose? Im trying to replace the 3 rubber portions and Ive never had so much work. I'll now need to replace both tube from the proportioner to the rubber hose to the front brakes. Looks like I'll be needing the rear as well. I even used the correct 6 point tube wrenches. Out come the vise grips and that was the only way to get anything loose but the tubing is now screwed. I was replacing only cause one of my buddies had a rear swell so much it wouldnt pass fluid to bleed the rear brakes. Good thing I did, I cut the driver front and it was swelled internally. Pass side was good
I was doing all of this in the first place because I was replacing the master so figured I would now so I didnt need to bleed again later. sorry for the rambling.
back to the original question, How do you guys break em loose?

[bilfman]

I always try line wrenches first, if they do not let go with a good push I break out the vice grips right away before there is any damage to the nut. I will only ever use "Vice-Grip" brand grips. Then get a good fit over the fitting, basically max vice action without damaging the nut. From here I will tap with a hammer to create and impact action to break it loose. I have also put a closed end wrench over the end of the vice grip to extend the grips the gives you a long very torquey push, just push slow and steady. I have never lost a battle doing the above and I have worked on many old vehicles

[donut]

Wire brush the fittings to knock off most of the rust and scale, hit them with PB and let 'em soak. I used to hit them a day before I tried to remove them.

I've also put the wrench on and "shock it" with a hammer, another wrench, rock something to knock it a little. Sometimes the blow is enough to break the rust seal.

Still failing? Cut the steel line and use a box wrench, of course you'll have to replace the steel lines.

[motornut]

soak them,and turn a touch tighter sometimes
line wrenches,or claw socket(comes from side)
vise grips last resort.... cause
if they are that bad, they prob need the fix anyway

[hrc200x]

I'm sure I will get lots of flack for this, but here in MN when a truck has seen road salt for 20+ years I use torches, use torches on brake bleeders also. Get them almost red hot, clamp a vice grip on and they will break loose, and it usually doesn't ruin a thing (nut still spins on the line). Maybe in California where no road salt you could get away with less heat, from a propane torch. Gotta be careful when next to a rubber line or close to the wheel cylinder where rubber seals are. In my opinion heat is the only chance of saving a line on a vehicle from Minnesota, I've done it in the past and will into the future. Just gotta be smart about it, maybe want truck outside and away from buildings, not in a grassy field, water/fire extinguisher close by.

[67swb72klb]

x 2 mi trucks same rust thing mapp gas works good

[lolife99]

And when you re-assemble your new replacement parts,... put a little anti-seize on the threads, so it won't happen again.

[East End K5]

just cut them out and replace all new....it sucks but in this area of the truck i just dont waist the time. New lines are soft and easy to bend making it worth the while...

[maskale]

Bought them, haven had to use them yet, but reviews are good.



Amazon.com: Vise-Grip 7LW Locking Wrench With...

[chevy72blu]

Bumping a year old thread with the same issue. Soaked in PB blaster for a good 2 hours and the rear hose nut at the dist block simply does not want to budge. The others all came off pretty easy, but this bugger wants to round itself off. I really dont want to replace the lines.

Using a line wrench before anyone asks....

[donut]

I just recently did one of my front rubber lines. Had to add heat with a propane torch to budge the line out of the end of the rubber line. I was replacing the rubber, but saved the steel line and fitting.

[KQQL IT]

Dad always said go tight first then loosen the up. Just enough tight to break the threads loose
Posted via Mobile Device

[wraprail]

Originally Posted by chevy72blu

Bumping a year old thread with the same issue. Soaked in PB blaster for a good 2 hours and the rear hose nut at the dist block simply does not want to budge. The others all came off pretty easy, but this bugger wants to round itself off. I really dont want to replace the lines.

Using a line wrench before anyone asks....

We don't have rust here in the desert!

[hatzie]

Brake lines are dirty nasty jobs that require some patience.

If the ferrule is rusty then the hard-line inside is prolly rusty. I usually assume I'll be replacing a stuck hard-line. I cut off the line, spray PB Blaster on, then strike the fitting firmly and squarely on the top with a hammer. With the line cut off I can use a 6point 1/4" drive socket to unscrew the ferrule.

I just replace crusty wheel cylinders... They're usually less than $15 brandy spankin new. No leaks and no rust.
Rubber lines get the cutoff wheel treatment right away... Assuming I can't get the hard-lines out of em.
Master cylinders and combination valves usually respond to cutoff lines, PB, hammer, and a 6point socket.
Caliper bleeders come out with my hot blue wrench and Vise Grips after I completely strip em down to the bare casting. If they're broken off flush I MIG a #10 nut to the end of the bleeder and heat the whole casting with my blue wrench till it glows bright incandescent red.

Heating with a 1/2" diameter brush flame (Hi-Temp) propane torch can get smaller iron castings to a very dull red and melting paraffin into the stuck threads will sometimes loosen the stuck stuff.

Wipe some Never-seeze on the threads and the portion of the hard-line inside the ferrule so it'll come back off next time. I Never-seeze bleeders on everything I own as soon as it gets home. The $2 rubber bleeder caps keep the salt and crud out of the inside of the bleeders so they are a must-have item. Any new trucks, cars, and bikes get em right away along with w quick shot of Never-seeze.