Factory front drums... original (w/ pics)?

[cantada]

Does this mean the front drums have never been off?

[WhippinSaw]

I think they took the dust cap off the center hub, pulled the cotter pin and took off brake drum still assembled to the center hub. I just replaced my front drums and had to grind off the rivets on front of the drum.

[billd5string]

Originally Posted by WhippinSaw

I think they took the dust cap off the center hub, pulled the cotter pin and took off brake drum still assembled to the center hub. I just replaced my front drums and had to grind off the rivets on front of the drum.

I agree - especially since the dust cap is pretty beat up. The drums are probably original but the brakes have been done several times and they always just pulled the hub when the brakes were done.

[1963c-10]

Even grinding down the rivet, sometimes they have to be pressed off the hub assembly

[WhippinSaw]

If you do decide to grind the rivets off, put the nuts back on tire studs or tape so you don't accidently hit the threads. I didn't damage mine but they are close.

[61_FL_Apache]

Its hard to tell. If they were replaced 30 years ago, it may look the same..

[cantada]

I bit the bullet and grinder off the rivits. Shoes I would guess where 10 years old but barely worn. Someone must done front brakes after my dad sold it but those drums have definately never been off those hubs. I wonder if the assembly guy who riveted those together ever though that these would last 50 years and get removed from a still mostly original truck (sans about 40 patch panels) and still running? Pretty cool.
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[62 bigwindow]

Hey Guys.. I have a question about front brake drums.... I just replaced wheel cylinders,
brake shoes, rubber hoses and front drums. My question is do I need to reuse the springs around the outside of the drums ? which I assume are for heat displacment or
vibration dampening....

[WhippinSaw]

If the original drums are within spec keep them. They are probably better and worth more money than the autozone stuff.
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[61_FL_Apache]

I would keep the old springs if they keep the shoe tight to the backing plate. If they feel too loose, then replace them.

[cortcomp]

I think he's talking about the long spring that goes around the outer circumference of the drum. I just put new brakes all around on mine (from napa) and had to do the rivet grinding also. I did not put the springs back on as there was a small half round "track" for them to sit in on the stock drums, but not the aftermarket ones.

If i had to guess, i'd say it was a cheap way to cool them with air movement instead of casting them as finned drums like on later vehicles.

[62 bigwindow]

Thanks Cortcomp
yes sorry I didnt explain a little better which springs , but the ones that wrap around the drum is what I meant. Also noticed that the aftermarket drums have no way to reach the adjuster with the drums on.. Any suggestion on the best way to get them bled and adjusted? thanks

[Brad54]

Originally Posted by cortcomp

I think he's talking about the long spring that goes around the outer circumference of the drum. I just put new brakes all around on mine (from napa) and had to do the rivet grinding also. I did not put the springs back on as there was a small half round "track" for them to sit in on the stock drums, but not the aftermarket ones.

If i had to guess, i'd say it was a cheap way to cool them with air movement instead of casting them as finned drums like on later vehicles.

I've been told those are for noise and vibration dampening. Big trucks have them, and 425-horse 409 Impala and Bel Airs had them for the semi-metallic high performance brake package those cars came with.

I've got new drums on the front of my Suburban, and when I brake, it sounds like a damn bus or dump truck stopping. I hate it.

I've got to get in there and figure out if there's a fix, but haven't gotten around to it yet. I've got a complete cross member I'm going to rebuild and upgrade with discs and dropped spindles this summer, so I'm just gritting my teeth until then.

-Brad

[70inline6]

Originally Posted by 62 bigwindow

... Also noticed that the aftermarket drums have no way to reach the adjuster with the drums on.. Any suggestion on the best way to get them bled and adjusted? thanks

I noticed that when I did all four on my 60. I didn't stop to think that I may have been able to install the adjuster and spring 180... I don't know. The other alternative, and the one I was planning was to grind a longer slot from the existing backing plate slot.

I installed self-adjusting components on mine. I trial and error fit mine by adjusting the shoes and trying the drum, adjusting the shoes, trying the drum until I got some rubbing on the drum, and let the adjusters do the rest after I buttoned them up. Eventually the pads will wear down the drum and lock the shoes under the lip. It's then I'll break out my grinding wheel to get to the adjusting wheels.

[62 bigwindow]

since I havent got the drum on yet I guess I might make a hole on the rear backing plate
or like you said see if I can flip the adjuster and spring 180degrees and use the hole thats already there....thanks guys

[Sharps40]

The after market drums I got from Orellies came with knock outs for the adjusters....well, actually drill outs since to knock out woulda taken a sledge to do the job...but I drilled out both ends of the knockout, filed the center smooth done...adjust em like it had factory drums on.

[70inline6]

On the drums? I got my parts from O'Reilly's too but didn't notice anything like a knock-out. Wouldn't removal of that material make a non- balance able rotating mass? Do you have any vibration?

[Sharps40]

2 after market drums had knockouts in the drum face and 2 did not. I pierced all 4. 3000 or so miles w/no issues. The mass removed is insignificant and neither of my C10s had holes in the backing plates. Both trucks had factory slots in the drums.
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[Sharps40]

Heres a pic of one of the old factory drums. Same adjuster slot as the one in your photo.



Heres a pic of the replacement drum after modding.





So, off to the drill press to remove most of the meat from the knock out tab and then punch it out with a good sturdy stanly flattip scewdriver and a 2.5 lb hammer.

[Sharps40]

I've since moved these drums from the wrecked 1964 Ol John Lee over to the replacment 1965 John Lee Jr. No issues, no worries...run just like original.