05-25-2013, 11:14 PM | #1 |
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Body Molding Question
I've searched and looked at all the old threads here and couldn't find the answer about body molding, upper and lower.
I'm looking to buy upper and lower (black) molding for my 1972 K20. My truck is not and will never be a show truck, but it is a nice looking truck and a daily driver. I don't want molding that is a big POS and regret buying it. Ecklers currently has a sale running this weekend and I can pick up upper and lower molding for right at $500 shipped. I know Mar-K is the highest quality, but is going to run a little over $1000 for everything. The $500 difference is big money and I can fund other projects with that money. My question is this. Has anyone seen both Mar-K and the import stuff (I heard all the cheap molding comes from the same overseas company) and can attest to the difference in quality? Any inputs are appreciated. For my Daily Driver I want something nice, but again, it is not a show truck. |
05-25-2013, 11:25 PM | #2 |
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Re: Body Molding Question
If I was building a $70k show truck then sure get the best moldings. For a daily driver get the $500 moldings. They are all made of anodized aluminum so there is no reason for the $500 price difference. I got mine used for $40 and repainted and cleaned them up and they look really good.
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05-26-2013, 12:01 AM | #3 |
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Re: Body Molding Question
^This^ Wow $40 for the whole set..great deal! Any pics of before and after?
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05-26-2013, 01:49 AM | #4 |
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Re: Body Molding Question
Brothers doesn't advertise it, but they sell Mar-k at a better price than Mar-k! I just got all mine for $640
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05-26-2013, 01:55 AM | #5 |
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Re: Body Molding Question
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05-26-2013, 02:27 AM | #6 |
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Re: Body Molding Question
Is the molding they advertise Mar-K? You'd think it would say, "Made in the USA" or something like that. Unfortunately, they won't be open until Tuesday and Eckler's 15% sale ends Monday.
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05-26-2013, 09:57 AM | #7 |
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Re: Body Molding Question
Is the molding they advertise Mar-K? You'd think it would say, "Made in the USA" or something like that. Unfortunately, they won't be open until Tuesday and Eckler's 15% sale ends Monday.
They don't mention it in the catalog, but if you call they will tell you. |
05-26-2013, 10:05 AM | #8 |
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Re: Body Molding Question
With black you're probably OK w import trim. The woodgrain could be a prob over time. I bought a repro woodgrain tailgate band from LMC for my K10 that quickly began to fade and shrink due to sun exposure. After a year it looked worse than the 40 plus year-old band I swapped it for. Also, if you're handy think about using the 70 and below clips to affix the molding rather than what GM did for 71-72, which used a combo of clips and adhesive stickers. The repro adhesive clips set the molding away from the body too much in my opinion and it doesn't look right. You have to add extra holes in the sheet metal like the 70 and below trucks had but that's no big deal. I went this route on my K20 build linked in my signature below....
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1972 K5 CST Highlander Blazer: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=708547 1972 K20 Cheyenne Super: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=528308 Members met: ORANGBLAZ, 2003 silverado, MikeCofield, BB72CHEVKT, Duncan&Son, Sameyrasmea72, THENEWMEXICAN, HotRod C/10, brianthelion02, Sport/Truck, ryanroo, michael bustamante, Dirt's72, Already Gone, WestButteTruck, 57taskforce, Moreyel, painterljp, AASmedic, SoCoC10, Lumaestas, carbuff382, Chevyland |
05-26-2013, 12:08 PM | #9 | |
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Re: Body Molding Question
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1972 C/10 Cheyenne Super SWB. Restored, loaded, slammed. 1968 C/10 50th Anniversary LWB. Unrestored, stock, daily driver/work truck. RIP ElJay RIP 67ChevyRedneck RIP Grumpy Old Man RIP FleetsidePaul |
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05-26-2013, 12:16 PM | #10 | |
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Re: Body Molding Question
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05-26-2013, 08:24 PM | #11 | |
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Re: Body Molding Question
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#teamlongbed "I refuse to go disc brakes. I actually love drum brakes. It makes for an adventure." - 50bomb 1978 Chevy shop truck - static 6/8" 1970 GMC 1500 - Accuair eLevel Resto-mod http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=537497 Last edited by Square_78; 05-26-2013 at 08:29 PM. |
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05-26-2013, 08:42 PM | #12 | |
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Re: Body Molding Question
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1972 C/10 Cheyenne Super SWB. Restored, loaded, slammed. 1968 C/10 50th Anniversary LWB. Unrestored, stock, daily driver/work truck. RIP ElJay RIP 67ChevyRedneck RIP Grumpy Old Man RIP FleetsidePaul |
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05-26-2013, 08:45 PM | #13 |
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Re: Body Molding Question
A few years ago my brother replaced all of his on his 72 Cheyenne. It took years of searching to piece together a good set. Every time he would see a pole at a swap meet he would buy them. He ended up with a few duplicates that he hung on to for spares. You can usually tell the 71-72 poeces because they will ne nice and straight with a screw hole in them from the p.o. "fixing" the adhesive fastener that failed. Most of his originals were like that too. We went with the pre 70 no adhesive fasteners.
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05-26-2013, 09:15 PM | #14 |
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Re: Body Molding Question
I bought a set from Classic Industries, a few years ago for a customers truck. They are "counter part". I had those, a set from Mar-k, and gm, all setting side by side. GM were the worst looking (tooling and stamp marks). With the other two side by side, you could see a slight difference. The Mar-k were a little nicer, but not enough to know the difference without being side by side to compare. I would by the cheaper ones, and spend the difference on other parts you need.
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05-27-2013, 03:41 AM | #15 |
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Re: Body Molding Question
Thanks for everyone's input, especially the side-by-side comparisons. I bought the set from Eckler's for $500 shipped (upper and lower in black). I'll post up some pics when I get them. Eckler's set was the cheapest around with the 15% Memorial Day sale.
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