Converting coil style ignition to HEI........what is involved?

[1project2many]

The BAT wire is actually switched power. It will come from the ignition switch or relay (if you use one).

[solidaxel]

How is the rear axle, done yet?
Do you have a measurment for the driveshaft, or is it installed?
Is the rad and fan installed?

[NW Task Force]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

How is the rear axle, done yet?
Do you have a measurment for the driveshaft, or is it installed?
Is the rad and fan installed?

The rear axle is installed, pinion angle set, driveline currently being built this week. The radiator is installed now too, along with the fan shroud. Unfortunatey, Speedway Motors sent me the wrong electric fan size and I am waiting to have the correct one shipped back out to me. In the meantime I am staying busy with checking & double checking electrical circuits wired throughout the truck.

[solidaxel]

Good Job, looks like you are on schedule !
Your truck will run fine with a switched 12VDC (10awg) (keyed) but that HEI will like the 14.2 VDC that is direct from the battery (starter)/alternator, BUT you must use a Relay for that.
Take a look at the drawing, get some good 10 AWG, a relay and some spade terminals, a ring term, to fit the starter.
This will be a HOT wire so it needs to be secured and protected to the HEI.
Let us know when you are ready, you will have help

[solidaxel]

Once you get the hang of relays, you will want them on your head lights and for sure your electric fan.
This may be a good time to look for a Buss (fused isolated and insulated 1/4 inch bolt& nut) that brings the 12VDC from the starter/battery to a common location for all three relays
(#30)

[solidaxel]

Relay!

[NW Task Force]

Wow! Thanks Solidaxel! Lots of great info! I think I have the wiring handled now. I'll update as I go.

[solidaxel]

Keep a eye on the calendar July is going to be here before you know it !!!!
Get that truck on the road !

[NW Task Force]

Just "bumping" this subject back up and wanting to clarify some things. My ignition switch has the following spads on the back................

SOL
IGN 1
IGN 2
BAT
ACC

Which of these spads should have the HEI wire going to it?

[solidaxel]

The one that has 12V when the key is tuned to on............... and it must have 12V when the key is in the start position, and goes to zero when the key is turned off.

Switched 12VDC in the on position AND start position

[fabguy]

Wow, this thread is perfect. Starting my wiring next week on my truck and this thread has helped me ALOT.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Rude Dude]

Do you have a cover for the relay box and where did you get it?

Originally Posted by solidaxel

Relay!

[Rude Dude]

Do you have a cover for the relay box and where did you get it?

Originally Posted by solidaxel

Relay!

[solidaxel]

Yes the plastic box came with a rubber seal on a hard cover from Elliot Electrocnis a local component supply house here in town (Tucson)

[NW Task Force]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

The one that has 12V when the key is tuned to on............... and it must have 12V when the key is in the start position, and goes to zero when the key is turned off.

Switched 12VDC in the on position AND start position

So is "switched" considered to be SOL or IGN1? I am still a little confused on where exactly on the back of the ignition switch wires are to be plugged in.

[solidaxel]

Do you have a meter (Volt-Ohm)
HF sometimes has free ones with purchas

[NW Task Force]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

Do you have a meter (Volt-Ohm)
HF sometimes has free ones with purchas

Yes, I have a nice Fluke Multimeter. I am pretty comfortable with using it too. I have gotten those Harbor Freight "freebie" ones before and given them out to friends who needed something to throw in the glovebox.

[1project2many]

Wires in one hand, switch in the other, and no idea how to connect them. And staring you in the face is SOL. Boy, if there was ever a case that the universe has a sense of humor, this is it.

SOL is starter SOLenoid. Connection should exist to BAT only in crank position.

IGN1 and IGN2 are both connected to BAT in run position. Use the multimeter to determine if one or both are connected to BAT when key is turned to crank position.

ACC is connected to BAT in accessory and ignition position but typically is not connected in crank position.

All of this should be confirmed with the meter.

[NW Task Force]

Thanks! This helps a lot. I do understand what the initials on the switch stand for.......just double checking to see what is the correct wire connections to each component.

[NW Task Force]

Tonight I tried to start my truck for the first time. I hit the key and the starter cranks the engine over perfectly. Next, is pulling a spark plug and cranking to see if I am getting spark. Yup, it sparked real good a couple of times. I cranked it over some more and no more spark!!! I wiggled wires on the ignition switch........nothing. Checked HEI under the cap and connections........good. I used a test light and meter at the back of the ignition switch to verify power. The following is what I discovered: The BAT has power all the time (correct) SOL is energized only when cranking (correct) IGN 1 is energized when switched to on. When switched momentarily to the start position, IGN 1 loses power completely. Basically, my HEI has power in the on position, but no power when switched to start. I used a test light and it seems sometimes the light stays on and sometimes goes off when touching IGN 1 while cranking. It seems like the internal ignition switch is bad/intermittent. The switch is brand new from an aftermarket truck catalog. I suspect its made in China or Taiwan? The back of the switch has IGN 1 & IGN 2.......... IGN 1 only is powered while in the on position and IGN 2 is only powered when cranking. Don't I need HEI power both during on & start positions? Does IGN 1 & IGN 2 need a jumper to work? What am I missing here to make spark happen to my HEI system?

[NW Task Force]

Hhhmmm........I may have found something that explains my dilemma.

Check out the diagrams I found online............

My ignition switch is a repro V8 style that fits 55-59 pickups. The terminals on the back have BAT/ACC/SOL/IGN1/IGN2 I noticed that some other ignition switches later on had BAT/ACC/SOL/IGN/GRD. I am wondering since mine is an early style reproduction that using a jumper between IGN1 & IGN2 is really the way to make it work.