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07-03-2013, 07:54 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Blyth, Ontario, Canada
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well .... what do i do now, ready to give up
anyone else have this problem?
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1986 LWB c10 w/327 & vortec heads |
07-03-2013, 08:00 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Port Coquitlam, BC
Posts: 202
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Re: well .... what do i do now, ready to give up
Yup. Look on the bright side, yours looks pretty mild. When my windshield was pulled because it was leaking, you could paint stir stick through a couple of the holes at the edges.
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07-03-2013, 08:02 PM | #3 |
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Re: well .... what do i do now, ready to give up
hard to fix ? im pretty pissed off at the moment...
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1986 LWB c10 w/327 & vortec heads |
07-03-2013, 09:40 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Ontario
Posts: 17
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Re: well .... what do i do now, ready to give up
That's not too bad, I believe the two bigger holes on each side are factory drain holes. I had similar rust, just wire wheeled it, por15 and new window seal.
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07-03-2013, 10:19 PM | #5 |
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Location: Ottawa ON
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Re: well .... what do i do now, ready to give up
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=433819
Doesn't look too bad, totally fixable check out my rust repair thread. I'm from Ontario too I feel your pain when it comes to rust. Posted via Mobile Device |
07-03-2013, 10:19 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Port Coquitlam, BC
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Re: well .... what do i do now, ready to give up
Not too hard to fix. Weld in a patch panel if it's really far gone, or build it up with some metal epoxy and sand back to the original shape.
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07-03-2013, 10:21 PM | #7 |
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Location: Preble county ohio
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Re: well .... what do i do now, ready to give up
suck it up tough guy, that aint bad at all!the big holes are drain holes, wire wheel it weld up the pin holes paint it and be done with it!
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07-03-2013, 10:43 PM | #8 |
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: central Oregon
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Re: well .... what do i do now, ready to give up
use some Rust Bullet on there....put it back together no one will know....
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07-03-2013, 11:06 PM | #9 |
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Re: well .... what do i do now, ready to give up
Man, don't freak! That's not bad. I guess if you don't have a welder or access to one it could be complicated...but every truck problem is an opportunity to buy tools, right?
A few small pieces of 18ga metal, cutting tools, shrinker/stretcher and welder and you'd be fixed up in an hour or two.
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07-03-2013, 11:22 PM | #10 |
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Blyth, Ontario, Canada
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Re: well .... what do i do now, ready to give up
haha yes sorry for over reacting guys ! just seems like everything that could go wrong with this thing HAS! the reason i took the windshield out in the first place was because the asshole that sandblasted my frame also blasted my glass ... also he decided to try to fix my floors and they look like he welded them in with a pineapple but ill try to get my hands on a welder tomorrow i guess ! wish me luck haha
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1986 LWB c10 w/327 & vortec heads |
07-03-2013, 11:56 PM | #11 |
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Knoxville TN
Posts: 1,170
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Re: well .... what do i do now, ready to give up
That looks like an easy repair to me also.
My tip of the day: When welding sheet metal keep bead less than about 1/2" long and allow cooling to avoid major warpage. |
07-04-2013, 11:05 AM | #12 | |
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Columbus OH
Posts: 11,414
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Re: well .... what do i do now, ready to give up
If you weld a half inch long bead in sheetmetal that thin, you will warp it like crazy. Small tacks are all you can get by with and even then you have to move around to spread the heat.
Allow it to cool on it's own before continuing.
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07-04-2013, 12:28 PM | #13 |
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Knoxville TN
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Re: well .... what do i do now, ready to give up
I've welded less than about 1/2" long many times w/o warping.
I weld longer passes on flat sheet metal w/o warping. I agree that a small tack is less likely to warp and better advice if newbie decides to learn welding on critical part. I also agree about allowing each tack weld to cool down on small patches. I find tacking boring (but safe) and pushing the puddle kinda fun. I'd recommend newbie practice welding on scrap, then floor pan, then more critical areas. |
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