06-28-2013, 08:46 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Grants Pass, OR
Posts: 543
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acid dip
Question for you guys. Has anyone had their burb/panel body completely dipped? Every time I start fixing one bit of rust more turns up. So I'm at the point that I'm gonna have to strip the whole thing. I'm leaning toward a dip to remove everything. The question is, is it cost effective and can they do something as large as a C30 panel?
I thought about media blasting but I'm afraid of warping some of the larger panels. Also I'm not sure if blasting will be as effective in all the nooks and crannies as a dip would be. Any experiences, good or bad would be appreciated. |
06-29-2013, 10:36 AM | #2 |
Chevy addict
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Iron Ridge, WI
Posts: 1,085
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Re: acid dip
I doubt to many places have a vat big enough for your panel. My experience a few years ago was that the stripper stays in the cracks and crevasses and the paint won't stick, letting it rust worse in those areas. E coating takes care of that situation but is expensive and not many places E coat.
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07-06-2013, 10:44 PM | #3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: kalkaska mi
Posts: 54
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Re: acid dip
do you have it off the frame?
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07-06-2013, 11:03 PM | #4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: The West
Posts: 767
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Re: acid dip
Contact these people...Seems like guys on HAMB recommend them
http://lmstripping.com/ |
07-07-2013, 12:34 AM | #5 |
60-66 Nut
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Coeur d'Alene, Idaho
Posts: 23,252
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Re: acid dip
I agree with 63burb
It is very difficult to get all the acid out of all the seams and crevaces. It typically keeps seeping out, and ruins your paint. IMO, media blasting is the only way to go. The difficult part is to find someone that knows how to media blast a body without warping it. It can be done. I have a friend that does it most everyday, for most all the local restoration shops.
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07-07-2013, 01:36 AM | #6 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Grants Pass, OR
Posts: 543
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Re: acid dip
Quote:
I've also been looking into the seeping issue. It seems that while that used to be an issue, in most cases it no longer is unless the company is still using outdated systems. In fact, some of the places I've looked into, guarantee that it wont effect the paint at all. A couple use high pressure fresh water to flush the seams, and one even uses a bake oven to cook it right out. So far the one that sounds the best based on what I've found out and recommendations from local body shops is in Oregon. The only problem is that's quite a haul from me. I'm not quite ready yet so I have plenty of time to keep gathering info. watkins_boyz, No dont have it off yet. I'm stuffing a cummins 5.9 under the hood and had to cut away much of the firewall. Until I get that finished and have the firewall back in shape, I'm leaving it on the frame for support. But I will be removing from the frame when it comes time for stripping. I'm gonna blast the frame since there would be no worry about warpage or nooks and crannies. I'm pretty sure I'm gonna powder coat the frame. I may just paint but my body guy is pressing me saying its worth the extra money to powder coat it. I'm playing difficult just to erk him but I'm pretty sure he's right. |
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07-07-2013, 11:22 AM | #7 |
Hollister, CA.
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Hollister, Ca.
Posts: 6,150
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Re: acid dip
My powder coating guy (across the parking lot from me) is also a pro media blaster.
He always recommends a power-primer on all the bodies he strips. Regardless of condition after blasting (rust holes, body work required) the powder coat leaves a tuff surface that filler will adhere excellently. Obviously, you grind away the area that would need welding/metal work. Once all the metal work is done, he would re powder the repair areas, and bake again. This would be really good if you can't get to body right away, it leaves it clean and sealed until ready. Posted via Mobile Device
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