Weber 32/36 HELP!

[K98AL]

I just installed Webere 32/36 from Langdon's. It runs, but there's not enough travel in my pedal to open secondary plate. I have linkage adjusted all the way out (long), but run out of pedal, just as secondary starts to open.
If I switch to lower hole on carb actuator, then I don't have any idle adjustment. How/can I get this to work?
Thanks for any input...

[Sharps40]

PM sent to ya, several.

Your idle adjustment on the 32/36 is totally different than what yer used to.

It is vital that you:

Establish freely operating linkage. This may mean lengthining the rod to the bell crank to get more stroke with the attachement at the butterfly plate on a hole in line with the butterfly shaft...i.e. neither top nor bottom holes.

Leave the choke settings alone!

Idle speed is 90%+ controlled by the lower primary barrel mixture screw/jet - NOT by the idle speed screw. This is because the idle mixture screw meters Emulsified fuel comeing from the primary main jet and primary air jet.

So....

1. Set the primary idle mixture screw 2 to 2.5 turns out from bottom.

2. Completly back out the idle speed screw, then turn it in to first contact with the linkage. From there turn it in 1 to 1.5 turns further. (The key to this carb is to set the idle with the idle mix screw and tweak it with the idle speed screw. The idle speed screw opens and closes the primary butterfly, it is imperative you have the butterfly as close to closed as possible at idle so do most of your idle speed adjustments with the Mix Screw not the Speed screw. This allows your mix port to shut off and transition fuel to the transition port when you touch the gas pedal) Adjustment of this carb is fine fine fine compared to the gross adjustments made on a Rochester B or 2G.

3. Start and warm engine fully, 30 minutes at idle is about right. It may idle rough as a cob, thats okay, as long as it idles.

4. Make sure chokes are fully open when its fully warm.

5. Set Idle Mixture screw for fastest smoothest lean idle. (not vacuum, look at idle speed on the meter and listen with your ear, fastest/smoothest) Your idle mixture screw should fall between 1.5 out from bottom and 2.5 turns out from bottom. (Below 1.5 turns out, Idle mixture jet should be smaller, beyond 2.5 turns out, idle mixture jet should be bigger.)

6. Once you have the smoothest fastest idle on the Idle mixture jet, very slowely and carefully tweak the idle speed screw. It must fall in the range of 1 turn in from initial contact with the linkage to no more than 2 turns in from initial contact with the linkage. Remember, the key is to keep the lower butterflys as close to closed as possible at idle....the Mixture jet is doing all the work at idle. If you have your mixture jet set right, it should take only very small adjustments of the speed screw to get the rpm you need at idle.

7. Take it for a drive.

8. Let it cool over night. Check the choke butterfly function the next morning at start up, go for a drive.

9. Tweak timeing, mixture, speed, main jets as needed....when its all correct/to your likeing...THEN tweak the choke for cold idle speeds.

Once its all in and properly jetted you should have good power, greater economy and for starting and driving it'll feel like fuel injection and smoother than you ever though possible.

It will run fine on your good condition mechanical fuel pump...no regulater needed. For heavens sake, install a top quality inline fuel filter, not one of the crappy see thru plastic mesh jobbies.

The engine may want a bit more ignition advance, even with a points dizzy. But, if it was running well with the current ignition settings on the old one barrel, it'll start and run as well or better with them useing the 32/36....i.e. don't worry much about timing now..if it was good before its good enough till ya get the carb to the 90+% level.

[Sharps40]

Couple other things I learned.

1. Leave the emulsioin tubes and air jets alone. Unless ya have a race engine, they are fine as is.

2. Once its running, adjust the primary jetting. Much of your focuse will be on the primary main jet. It will likely be a 140 from the factory. You'll likely need to lean it up, going to a 135 or 130 main jet. I have a 135 jet you can try.

3. Once the primary is set, work on the secondary main jetting. It should be a 140 from factory. Try a 150 thru 165 and you should see continueing increases in performance on opening the seconday and up to WOT. I have a 155 yet you can try.

4. Monitor the plugs, tip, insulator, base thread and electrode. It'll tell ya about timeing, carb adjustment and detonation long before you can see/hear or even feel those issues.

Take your time. Its worth it. I suspect mine will show over 18 MPG at fill up today. 3500 lb truck, 230 engine and 3.73 rear. Plenty of power. Gotta love it.

But, you must get the primary barrel done first, its 95% of your driving happening on that barrel.

[Sharps40]

If your 235 linkage is like my 230 linkage this may help. (i.e. 2 bell cranks, one at manifold, one at firewall)

Connecection from manifold bell crank to carb.....pics show a bottom hole connection, I settled on center outer hole for best leverage...

Chevy linkage attached to the carb, make yer own linkage ready to modify beside it...raising the carb on an adapter so need a longer link.



It don't have to get cherry red, plenty hot will get it maliable enough to bend w/o breaking...a quench will reharden good steel.



Bring whatcha got in my shop, a rod bender made of pipe, vice grips and a rifle reloading press....



Chevy linkage, short, off the carb, new made long link installed....



Just roughing in, not bad, a bit close though.



A quick trim of 1/2" of chevy throttle shaft makes clearance.

[Sharps40]

Changeing from bottom hole to center outboard hole for best leverage. The modified langdon link from manifold bell crank to carb allowed me to shorten up the rod from the mainfold bell crank to the firewall bell crank. Full range of motion, both butterflies open fully and no interfenence of the linkage on the carb with the bolt on the carb butterfly. Even here I slightly ground off the back of teh bolt that connects the manifold bell crank to the carb...gives me plenty of clearance to the carb linkage. And useing the longer langdon link ment I had double the adjustment ability...an inch or so in the langdon link and several inches in the factory rod between manifold crank and firewall crank.

Okay, slow methodical work this evening. Some fine teaking of the linkage for better leverage, last nights set up worked but was sticky off the line, impossible to feather into the clutch and quite jerkey because of some bind. Good news is I retained 95% of 1965 C10 linkage with only 1/2" of the chevy connecting rod removed...to recovert to Rochester Mod B is dooable and the removal of the rod end will go functionally and cosmetically invisible.

So, compare last nights linkage photos and you'll see that I moved the Langdon vertical connector from manifold side to valve cover side of the bellcrank. Had to find a reversed dogleg shaft clip out of the junk box to make it work. I also moved the ball joint from the lower inner hole of the carb lever to the outer center hole...plenty of range of movement, nothing binds and the geometry is better....I looked at the model B and it also had the ball joint on a centerline with the butterfly shaft, neither above or below. So, in copying factory geometry closely, I wound up with smooth even motion and no binding. In addition, look at tonights photo of the long horizintal chevy connecting rod, I moved the threaded connector about 1/2 to 3/4 further back on the shaft...went too far the first time (all the way to the firewall end and bottomed the threads) and the pedal was vertical and off the spoon in the cab. I went out again with the threaded fitting about 1/4 inch from being bottomed out and perfect pedal function, though a bit more vertical than before, no worries though, I can mash it flat whenever I want! Hooked it all back up including the stout chevy return spring and it functions as smooth and easy as it did with the Rochester B on the manifold.



See, now the bell crank and the vertical connector make a Vee and I'm not having to move the connector over center while pushing it up. Very smooth and easy. The parts are better situated to move in smooth arcs now.

[Sharps40]

How'd that weber run and how did the linkage tweaks work out on the run home tonight? Hope it was smooth function from idle to WOT so ya can get busy tuning and jetting!

[K98AL]

Worked great! I can't believe how much difference that made. Thanks for all your help.

[Sharps40]

It'll get a lot better if you spend the next 5 tanks of fuel jetting and tuning the ignition.

It'll be rich most likely with the 140 main jets. Holler if ya want a leaner primary and a richer secondary main jet.

If yer engine is good shape, ya should see 16+ mpg pretty easy. Make sure ya check the high speed performance of the secondary after the idle and primary is set right. Should feel like smooth power pouring on (i.e. passing gear disconnected) and take ya from 50 to 70 pretty darn smooth and quick w/o running out of breath before 70 or more.