whats involved in removing engine? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

67pro-street · 12-03-2003, 02:21 AM

i am planning on taking the engine out of my truck. I have a 67 with a 350 in it and a 4 spd tranny. I was just wondering what i have to do in order to remove the engine. (i wont be taking the tranny out, just the engine.) if anyone could give me some instructions i would really appreciate it as this would be my first time.

thanks.

mikep684x4 · 12-03-2003, 02:47 AM

I'd start by draining the radiator and removing it. Keep the antifreeze away from the animals you like. Then take off your pullys. This will give you more room to slide the motor forward away from the trans. Disconnect gas line,oil pressure line and electrical to distributor and alternator. Disconnect the exhaust. Remove the top four bell housing bolts, leaving the bottom two for now. Remove the motor mount bolts, You may need to remove the hood to keep the hoist from hitting it. Hook your chain so you are lifting the level. Support the trans with a jack, remove your last two bolts and then lift the motor slowly, you need to come up and forward as you lift so you can clear the input shaft and the fly wheel. Don't be affraid to wiggle it side to side to help it come out. Hope this helps.

krue · 12-03-2003, 08:24 AM

It really helps to have one person on the lift, and one person on the engine checking for still connected wires, things hanging up etc. You will have to shake it and rock it to get it out usually.

Cat Fuzz · 12-03-2003, 08:55 AM

Unless I missed something, your assuming he has a manual tranny.

If its an automatic, you need to disconnect the torque convertor from the flexplate. Theres a little access panel underneath, remove that, then have a friend turn the motor over by hand and remove each bolt/nut. There are 4, I think. Could be 5, can't remember. The torque convertor needs to stay with the tranny. When using the jack under the tranny, use a piece of wood to protect the pan.

Tx Firefighter · 12-03-2003, 10:36 AM

three torque converter bolts actually.

I like to remove the starter too, as they tend to foul to motor mounts when horsing the engine out.

Soak your exhaust bolts in penetrant a couple of days before doing the job to help avoid difficulty.

Don't forget accelerator cable or rod.

Mikep pretty much covered the bases though

cdowns · 12-03-2003, 10:37 AM

you also should disconnect the clutch linkage where it hooks to the bellhousing

Locutus · 12-03-2003, 11:15 AM

I suggest removing the radiator first as well. When wiggling the engine it is to easy to bang the radiator and have to get that fixed as well. You have to drain it anyway just go the extra couple of steps and save the headache.

Castiron9 · 12-03-2003, 12:30 PM

About one 6 pack.And some busted knuckles,,

70ChevyLongbed · 12-03-2003, 12:43 PM

67Pro-Street,

Glad you asked

Great info guys!

Next time I do this much engine work that sucker is coming out first.

Cat Fuzz · 12-03-2003, 07:35 PM

Busted knuckles: An essential part of any auto repair.

SEVEND2 · 12-03-2003, 07:41 PM

hmm make ia 12 pack and DONT forget to Label your Wires. , where they went!!!

67pro-street · 12-04-2003, 03:17 AM

thanks for the information fellas. i got one more question. how much time should i allow to take this out. i was thinking about a day. am i right, or would it be less. thanks,

67pro-street

jorgensensc · 12-04-2003, 03:27 AM

If you Think this out thoroughly before you start working (at night before you go to sleep) and write down problems you think you might run into, it should only take you about 3 hours to pull it. Once you get started it's pretty easy. Remember don't start rushing though!! Hope this helps and remember to HAVE FUN!!!

12-03-2003, 02:21 AM	#1
67pro-street Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Bellingham, WA Posts: 218	whats involved in removing engine? i am planning on taking the engine out of my truck. I have a 67 with a 350 in it and a 4 spd tranny. I was just wondering what i have to do in order to remove the engine. (i wont be taking the tranny out, just the engine.) if anyone could give me some instructions i would really appreciate it as this would be my first time. thanks.

12-03-2003, 02:47 AM	#2
mikep684x4 Seeker of the big and bad Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: wheatland,Calif,yuba Posts: 105	I'd start by draining the radiator and removing it. Keep the antifreeze away from the animals you like. Then take off your pullys. This will give you more room to slide the motor forward away from the trans. Disconnect gas line,oil pressure line and electrical to distributor and alternator. Disconnect the exhaust. Remove the top four bell housing bolts, leaving the bottom two for now. Remove the motor mount bolts, You may need to remove the hood to keep the hoist from hitting it. Hook your chain so you are lifting the level. Support the trans with a jack, remove your last two bolts and then lift the motor slowly, you need to come up and forward as you lift so you can clear the input shaft and the fly wheel. Don't be affraid to wiggle it side to side to help it come out. Hope this helps. __________________ 71 3/4 ton 4x4,665hp 454. 67 GMC 1 ton towtruck 68 chevy LB 4x4 64 chevy LB custom 57 Bel-air 2d station wagon

12-03-2003, 08:24 AM	#3
krue Designated A-hole! Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: South Mississippi Posts: 36,448	It really helps to have one person on the lift, and one person on the engine checking for still connected wires, things hanging up etc. You will have to shake it and rock it to get it out usually. __________________ "If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is!" Being stupid ain't illegal. We're Still Debt Free Except for the House!!! www.daveramsey.com 70 GMC SWB Stepside project "Green Booger" soon to be 6.0l/4l80e 93 S-10 "Poppaw's Truck"

12-03-2003, 10:36 AM	#5
Tx Firefighter Watch out for your cornhole ! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Azle, Texas Posts: 14,162	three torque converter bolts actually. I like to remove the starter too, as they tend to foul to motor mounts when horsing the engine out. Soak your exhaust bolts in penetrant a couple of days before doing the job to help avoid difficulty. Don't forget accelerator cable or rod. Mikep pretty much covered the bases though __________________ I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin

12-03-2003, 10:37 AM	#6
cdowns Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: daytonabeach Posts: 22,956	you also should disconnect the clutch linkage where it hooks to the bellhousing __________________ 71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY

12-03-2003, 08:55 AM	#4
Cat Fuzz My son, my joy. Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 463	Unless I missed something, your assuming he has a manual tranny. If its an automatic, you need to disconnect the torque convertor from the flexplate. Theres a little access panel underneath, remove that, then have a friend turn the motor over by hand and remove each bolt/nut. There are 4, I think. Could be 5, can't remember. The torque convertor needs to stay with the tranny. When using the jack under the tranny, use a piece of wood to protect the pan.

12-03-2003, 11:15 AM	#7
Locutus Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Santa Fe, Texas Posts: 249	I suggest removing the radiator first as well. When wiggling the engine it is to easy to bang the radiator and have to get that fixed as well. You have to drain it anyway just go the extra couple of steps and save the headache.

12-03-2003, 12:30 PM	#8
Castiron9 72 LONGHORN OWNER Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Seattle Wash. Posts: 963	About one 6 pack.And some busted knuckles,, __________________ 72-SUPER CHEYENNE/20 LONGHORN 70-C/30 DUALLY

12-03-2003, 12:43 PM	#9
70ChevyLongbed Howzit?!? Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Maryville, TN Posts: 1,265	67Pro-Street, Glad you asked Great info guys! Next time I do this much engine work that sucker is coming out first. __________________ Jason Hawaiian-J 70 Longbed, 307, Edelbrock Carb 1404, Edelbrock Intake 2101, Dual Roller Timing chain and gears, 214/214 cam, Comp Roller Rockers, dual Flowmasters. 1999 Chevy Tahoe 2004 Mini Cooper S 71 BMW 2002 - Sold

12-03-2003, 07:35 PM	#10
Cat Fuzz My son, my joy. Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 463	Busted knuckles: An essential part of any auto repair.

12-03-2003, 07:41 PM	#11
SEVEND2 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Menifee, Calif, USA Posts: 2,145	hmm make ia 12 pack and DONT forget to Label your Wires. , where they went!!! __________________ With a 1972 Chevy Custom-10 Long bed w/350cid th350, (under-construction). Progress on truck so far (follow link): http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ad.php?t=51051 and stage 2 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ad.php?t=58132 ~ "Why couldn't you have just put the bunny back in the box?" ~

12-04-2003, 03:17 AM	#12
67pro-street Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Bellingham, WA Posts: 218	thanks for the information fellas. i got one more question. how much time should i allow to take this out. i was thinking about a day. am i right, or would it be less. thanks, 67pro-street

12-04-2003, 03:27 AM	#13
jorgensensc Registered User Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Cypress, Tx Posts: 4,005	If you Think this out thoroughly before you start working (at night before you go to sleep) and write down problems you think you might run into, it should only take you about 3 hours to pull it. Once you get started it's pretty easy. Remember don't start rushing though!! Hope this helps and remember to HAVE FUN!!! __________________ 1972 C20 Suburban- Big Blue Betty '56 Chevy Bel Air Sedan- Frame up Restoration -What would you attempt to achieve if you knew you could not fail?- -I Refuse To Tiptoe Through Life, Only To Arrive Safely At Death's Door- R.I.P. EAST SIDE LOW LIFE

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