What needs to be removed from PCM?

[ivorton74]

Quick question about PCM reflash...what needs to be removed from it? Motor is a 5.3 out of a 99 silverado and its goin into my 74 c10. Will be usin a 4l60 trans as well.
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[truckdude239]

Vats all emission stuff rear o2s keep the upstreams as u need them for the efi. I had the gm torque management turned off in mine.
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[jks67ss396]

not sure on a 99, but on my 04, even when i deleted the evap reporting codes (hptuners), the damn thing kept trying to open, so i just unplugged the connector

[BigRed76]

Originally Posted by truckdude239

Vats all emission stuff rear o2s keep the upstreams as u need them for the efi. I had the gm torque management turned off in mine.
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Do they all have torque management? Or is that essentially the same as traction control?

[solidaxel]

With that brought up.............. what codes MUST remain, is there a list of codes for a 2004 5.3 4L60E TAC

[Critter]

There's a little more to it than what has been mentioned if you want the ecm to truly be set up right. There are a bunch (50-100 depending on the setup) of MIL triggers that either need to be turned off or adjusted. If these aren't taken care of your check engine light will be on indefinitely. The speed sensor needs to be set up properly especially if you are running an electronic auto trans. If the gear ratio and tire size isn't set up properly the shift points will be off along with some other calibrations. Of course there are other things like A/C settings and cooling fans that might need attention depending on your setup. My point is even to make a vehicle run using the stock VE tables/maps you need to adjust quite a few things.

And torque management IS different from traction control. They both act as a checks and balances of sorts but in different ways. Traction control would keep you from burning out or drifting through a curve, anything that makes the rear tires spin considerably faster than the front. Torque management on the other hand should be thought of as a transmission safety net. If the ecm determines that the engine is putting out more power in a given situation than the transmission can handle it will pull fuel and/or timing to basically make the engine less powerful for that moment in time. You don't have to be doing a burnout for torque management to kick in. However if you leave a stoplight and floor it or if you have a trailer behind you and you floor it (regardless of traction), torque management could be telling the engine to back off. It does similar things to your trans shift firmness. For the record I have never heard of someone keeping traction control with one of these swaps, you would have to include the body control module into the swap equation. On the other hand, torque management affects everyone that has an electronically controlled automatic trans...until you turn it off that is.

[88Ironduke]

Got an 81' Firebird running a '06 Tahoe 5.3 with the 4L60E. Refer to the LS1swap forum.
Tons of info there. I added two relays to control switched 12v DC for ECM operations and one for fuel pump control. What I don't see being talked about much is how people deal with mechanical speedometers and the digital output required by the PCM. I swapped on a new tail shaft housing on the transmission that is modified for both old school mechanical speedo and the digital speedo output. Works great and is 100% solid.

88Ironduke

[solidaxel]

Critter you bring up some good points, thanks

[Robznob11]

If you send it to or take it to someone who does it all the time like nelson, wait4me, etc. they know what all to take out. you just need to tell them your exhaust setup, wheel tire size, gear ratio, estimated application weight/truck,car. for instance mine is a hot rod so I had it set up for all out performance, a 4X4 would be set up different, or a daily driver just to cruse. they need to know if you plan on using cheap gas or high octain. but most can get it pretty close with that info lets face it they have done umpteen of them....

[BR3W CITY]

I've said this on every pcm related thread but I really suggest only using mail order tuners to; A) remove vats and basic startup related things to get you going B) Give you a starting point to work from if deciding to "learn it yourself" or C) do a fairly stock swap requiring little work on the finnicky details.

This part isn't really related to your question but
A dyno tune has no replacement. Even a street tune should be in addition to the dyno tune to check things like shift points and feel, tq management problems or issues with the dbw, traction controls etc etc etc.

[Robznob11]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

I've said this on every pcm related thread but I really suggest only using mail order tuners to; A) remove vats and basic startup related things to get you going B) Give you a starting point to work from if deciding to "learn it yourself" or C) do a fairly stock swap requiring little work on the finnicky details.

This part isn't really related to your question but
A dyno tune has no replacement. Even a street tune should be in addition to the dyno tune to check things like shift points and feel, tq management problems or issues with the dbw, traction controls etc etc etc.

I second this statement!
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