Rochester 2g flooding at idle speed

[tattooboy37]

283 engine w/ Rochester 2 jet. Truck has always started and had no problems until recently. it has a manual choke assembly and when I pull the choke on and start it everything is fine but when I disengage choke the idle slows down and gas starts to eventually flow out of the hole on top of carb.(hole is just inside air intake area in front of air filter stud.) I also noticed the choke valve seems stuck open and choke shaft wont budge. not sure if it has always been this way while it was running fine because air filter assembly has been in place.
the only thing I did was remove an inline filter and the carbs intake fuel filter (checked youtube to make sure it went back the same way) and now it floods after running great at higher speeds. it also will continue to run if I disengage choke and manually engage throttle when I start seeing gas wanting to spill.
I honestly don't know if the choke is even engaging since the choke valve/plate doesn't move but it idles supper fast like it is working until I force it back.

[tattooboy37]

no ideas?

[Green Hornet]

Sounds like when you changed the fuel filter you may have gotten some debris in the needle/seat. Best bet is to clean the carb, check float level as well. If the problem persists I would change the needle/seat and possibly the float if it is deteriorated.

[68gmsee]

Agree with above and also replace all the filters. I've had one where the needle valve would bind and not seat properly also. I had to whack it with a wooden stick until I decided to rebuild it.

Take it apart and give it a good cleaning. These are not difficult carbs to rebuild.

[Green Hornet]

Currently battling the same carb on mine. Float is deteriorated and needle/seat is worn. Causes the carb to overflow a few minutes after shutting it off. Stops when the fuel pressure goes down. Updating the engine soon so no need to fix at the moment.

[18436572GMC]

Like all the others have said, get a rebuild kit with a new needle and seat and set the float to the proper level.

[zeldman]

I agree, it sounds like debris in the needle and seat. An old trick is to try pinching the rubber fuel line with pliers, careful not to crush the line, just enough to stop the fuel flow. Have some one start the engine, and just before the engine dies, take off the pliers. Sometimes the fuel pressure will wash what ever is in the seat, and it might return to normal. Also another old trick is to take a wooden hammer handle and tap lightly but solidly on the fuel inlet. I emphasize using the wood end. That might dislodge the debris as well. Or, just take the carb off and rebuild it. Be sure to replace the float, but check and make sure that if has clear movement. Just a little interference will cause it to stick and flood out. And a sticking float may be your problem. Lastly, and most importantly, what ever you do always check and double check for fuel leaks. The Rochester 2GC is a great carb and done right will deliver decent fuel mileage.

[tattooboy37]

Thanks for all the answers guys. they all seem pretty much the same and after watching some videos it doesn't seem too difficult to clean/rebuild. they go thru every step and i'm pretty mechanical, just nervous of changing any settings cause I sure don't know how to adjust things. just what they cover online. I will open her up and check float and seat.

I have all hard line so I cant do the plier test but sure would like to try it. I need the lesson on the carb anyway so I might as well learn a thing or two. I have a 63 t-bird that has been sitting and needs the carb done as well.

[68gmsee]

Originally Posted by tattooboy37

....I have all hard line so I cant do the plier test but sure would like to try it. I need the lesson on the carb anyway so I might as well learn a thing or two. I have a 63 t-bird that has been sitting and needs the carb done as well.

Some people suggest air pressure but regardless of what you do, if there's debris in the carb it's bound to give you trouble again. Rebuilding will take care of that.

Get at least two cans of carb cleaner and be sure and replace the filters. I have a filter coming out of the tank under the truck since I removed the sock on the sending unit and replace it and the carb filter about every six months or so.

[bobs409]

I agree with something keeping the needle open. I once changed a filter on my car and when I screwed the fitting back in, I must have sheared a thread off. That tiny sliver of metal got stuck in the needle and I had to keep revving the engine at the red lights to keep it running.

I'd start there.

[tattooboy37]

Well I got it running again w/out the flooding issue. I had to take it apart 3 times before it would operate normally. The needle/seat looked good, but did not have the little clip thingy the guy mentioned online, from needle to float. supposed to help it from binding I guess. anyway I am still waiting for the rebuild kit but wanted to see what was up while I waited. I'll pull the whole thing apart once the kit gets here to replace gaskets ect. , since it started to seep a bit of gas after I removed the top a few times. thanks again for all the help and yes these carbs seem very simple and less intimidating now.

[68gmsee]

Actually the spring for the needle valve is to lift the needle valve off the seat when the bowl is low to let more fuel in. I have seen some carbs that had it missing but I always install it. Just make sure that it's installed correctly on the float cause it could cause the needle valve to not seat properly.