More Tow Hook ???s

[Orange Crate]

On my 72 K20 during frame painting I noticed that it was drilled for hooks so I searched for an original set and I just got them the other day and have attached a few pics of them installed. I can barely see a part number for the left or right side but it looks to be 3941733-4 or 3941732-4 but it is not clear enough to be sure. Does anyone have the numbers for left and right side? The other questions I have are about the install. If you look at how I have them, I am not too sure which direction the tips should go and also the plate that is spot welded on to the forward spring perch is there on one side and missing from the other. The welded on plate interferes with the hook on the left side (seen from the drivers seat) and it doesn't seem to make a difference which hook I put on that side (hook tip pointing in or out) there isn't enough clearance to get a strap on there. The first pic is left side with tip pointing out (missing plate on perch) and the clearance is the second pic. The third pic is the left side with the perch plate and tip pointing out and (lack) of clearance. The rest are of the hooks reversed tips pointing in. I think what I will do is to remove the welded on plate on the left and point the tips out, but I was curious if this is what the extreme bend hooks were all about (getting around the perch plates). Any info would be much appreciated and probably make my whole day. Big Enjoys!

[Orange Crate]

sorry first pic is of the RIGHT side with the missing perch plate....

[swamp rat]

I will try and dig on a pic of mine when i get home later tonight. I believe the hooks point out tho.

[71blksuper4x4]

Flip em side for side. Trevor

[Prematuregrey]

First, let me say I'm not the guy that knows the correct placement of hooks on these trucks. That being said, I don't think they are wrong I would say the turn should point inboard. You definitely don't want to turn them around. Hooks out is asking for trouble by putting the weak side to the load. To me they look fine. As far as clearance for straps, I don't know what size of straps you are planning to use but from the pics, all of my rigging I carry on my 4 Runner would fit fine and I have nothing rated for less than 10K (most of my endless straps are 20k) since that's what my winch can straight pull. You should only need 1/2" clearance between the frame and points to get most strap eyes in there. Another option which I would recommend if you do actually use them for recovery is to use a shackle, 6 ton or better is what I carry. As far as recovery supplies, I highly recommend grabbing an ARB recovery bag since it comes with everything you need to properly recover or yank on just about anything short of a tank. They do look like beefy hooks, a lot better than what is going on trucks nowadays. I would also recommend adding some plate stock material on the inside under the nuts for extra stiffening. I wish I had a nickle for every late model Chevy tow hook I've seen broke due to what I see as cheap material and being cast not forged.

[Orange Crate]

swamp rat, thanks I appreciate any effort with my puzzle.

Trevor, when you say flip them side for side what do you mean? I included pics of them with tips to the outside and also inside. Which still leaves no clearance on the left for a tow strap. I for sure will never run them with the hook open toward the front, I have pulled too many people out (and been pulled out myself) to try that.

Premature, thanks, always good info on who uses what for heavy duty recovery. I have two bags I carry for tow straps, clevises, hooks and tie downs, it's nice to have options when the going gets tough and I also tow a trailer occasionally so choices are needed there too. Mistakes or equipment failure during recovery is never good. If you look at the third and fourth picture you can see that there is NO clearance to put a strap on the hook. The pictures are not of the permanent install, I plan on blasting them and powder coating and I agree they need extra reinforcement on the inside of the frame for really heavy loads.

[Bigdav160]

I'm ignorant on the factory tow hooks. I thought I read in another thread that '72 hooks had the large bend to avoid the spring mount

[srvivor71]

Originally Posted by Bigdav160

I'm ignorant on the factory tow hooks. I thought I read in another thread that '72 hooks had the large bend to avoid the spring mount

That was my understanding too - that 72 tow hooks were the extreme bend type, which point in the same direction. I originally found these excellent pics in a previous post here.

I have a 71 truck with 72 tow hooks. OC - let me know if you want to discuss a swap.

[Orange Crate]

There were two types of hooks available in 72. The "left and right" hooks with a small bend and then the extreme bend that had the bend going the same direction. Searching this forum I found the part numbers for the 69-72 and the 72 only extreme bend and it looks like they all had the same numbers.

1. Quote:
Originally Posted by jc
#s from my book are as follows

1967-1968 style are 3663349 (RH)
------------------------3663350 (LH)
1969-1972 style are 3941733 (LH)
------------------------3941734 (RH)

[swamp rat]

Here's pic's of mine, looks like your not alone... Nothing on my frame looks bent, i have about 1" clearance on the passenger side and almost none on the driver side... I'll have to look sometime and see if i can move the one side out.

Side note: See all that green stuff, thats where my handle came from, the truck was covered in it foir a while... LOL!

[Orange Crate]

Swamp Rat: Hey thanks very much that info is most helpful. I see that you also have a plate spot welded on the drive side spring perch and NOT on the passenger side. If the plate was not there on the left everything would be puppy dogs and rainbows! I will most likely remove my plate but now I am wondering what that is all about. After searching this subject in the forum it seems that is the way these trucks are delivered. I thought I had knocked the plate off during some too happy four wheeling but it looks to be a factory feature. Any thoughts as to why one side and not the other? Thanks again and good handle...

[Bigdav160]

It's purpose was explaned in this thread

The purpose of the brackets is to "contain" the leaf spring in the event of either spring eye bolts breaking. If a break should happen and you don't have these brackets, you loose the ability to steer, as the steering box will just push or pull the entire axle. They were not put on the passenger side because the spring eye bolts do not see the steering gear stresses that the driver side ones do, and are not as prone to breakage for that reason. Also, you can still steer the truck if you loose a spring eye bolt on the passenger side.

[DWilbur]

My 71 has the plate welded on the driver side spring mount. I was think of cutting it off when I start working on the frame. wondering if it was installed for a reason.

[Orange Crate]

Wow that is amazing....this really is such a valuable resource for our brand. That is really something that someone has already answered that, thanks a bunch... mystery solved and I will NOT be removing that plate.

[too much stuff]

There should also be a bracket on the frame behind the drivers side leaf spring so it can't go back too far.

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by Bigdav160

It's purpose was explaned in this thread

I didn't even notice when i took the pictures, but i was in a rush. My first thought when reading the reply to me from Orange Crate (my favorite stingray btw)was in line with the steering box and stress on the frame but didn't give the ability to steer any thought, but yes it makes perfect sense.

I guess as long as you can loop a chain or strap thru the hook then why bother and make your truck unsafe.

Thanks for posting the thread and link, mucho appreciated!

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by too much stuff

There should also be a bracket on the frame behind the drivers side leaf spring so it can't go back too far.

Yes i have one there too and was wondering why it was there.

[BLAZERMAN]

The problem was with the factory springs breaking up near the spring eye. I drove a truck home about 75 miles that had that same break with no problems because of that plate and rear stop. If your using aftermarket springs you can do away with them, if you still have the factory springs it would be a good idea to leave them.

[Orange Crate]

I have a 2" soft ride spring set but I did use the old bolts. They were surprisingly clean for being over 40. I think I'll replace the bolts to be sure, I like the greaseable ones Swamp Rat has in the pic above. I think if I replace the bolt I will be more acceptable to removing that plate and that solves my problem of trying to find a set of extreme bend hooks too. If I don't remove the plate that hook is basically unusable. It sounds like a few people were wondering what the heck that plate did so thanks again for the posts, this site rocks. I feel so much better about making an effort to get the hooks on to my 4X4. I have to admit I was a little disappointed when I first installed them and ran in to this issue. But now it is time for alcohols!!

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by Orange Crate

I have a 2" soft ride spring set but I did use the old bolts. They were surprisingly clean for being over 40. I think I'll replace the bolts to be sure, I like the greaseable ones Swamp Rat has in the pic above. I think if I replace the bolt I will be more acceptable to removing that plate and that solves my problem of trying to find a set of extreme bend hooks too. If I don't remove the plate that hook is basically unusable. It sounds like a few people were wondering what the heck that plate did so thanks again for the posts, this site rocks. I feel so much better about making an effort to get the hooks on to my 4X4. I have to admit I was a little disappointed when I first installed them and ran in to this issue. But now it is time for alcohols!!

FYI: the greaseable bolts come in Bushing kits from Offroad design, the bushings are shortened to allow the grease to feed both the bolt but also the outside of the bushings at the spring as well. They will sell whats nessasary to match your current springs as the eyelets on the springs vary in diameter.

I posted pic's in my build thread which admittedly as of late has become a frustration vent thread..

[Orange Crate]

Swamp Rat, thanks again. I just got done reading your build post to find out what you had used for greasable bolts. Sometimes it is hard to find the motivation when you run in to problems. I try to imagine what it will be like driving down the road when everything is done and done the way I want it. I have changed direction a few times already to try to stay on track.

[Orange Crate]

Ha I just realized that you know what the Orange Crate was...ha...I thought I was the only one that was crazy about that bike as a kid. Now I'm crazy about a different Orange Crate....too cool.

[swamp rat]

No problem, glad i could help..