Question on cutting coil springs

[GAM3OVR]

So I recently purchased a 1987 R10 and the seller described it as having a 5/7 drop using DJM parts. The truck is lower than this in the front, I'm thinking it is 6" or more. It has 3" spindles and what I think are 3" springs. The truck rides awful and wont align properly. The insides of the tires are showing steel so I want to get this problem fixed before I purchase new tires.

I can run a 2" spring from DJM. They say it will properly align afterwards and I will have a decent ride.

...... Or I can buy stock replacement MOOG springs and cut a coil.

My reason for thinking about cutting a stock spring is that I have read on various forums that a cut stock spring will have a better ride, less bounce, etc.

My question is do you guys think a spring that is new will still give 2" of drop with one coil cut? Most that are getting 2" are using the original springs.

[GAM3OVR]

By the way, I'm new here. I probably should have made a newbie post or build thread first, but I need to get this figured out. I will start a build thread soon.

[J Knight]

Cutting one round off the stock coil spring is a 2in drop.

[GAM3OVR]

I understand that, but most people cut the original coils. What I am asking is will it still give 2" on a NEW spring versus one that has been on a truck for over twenty years.

[INSIDIOUS '86]

What kind of shocks do you have?

[GAM3OVR]

They are DJM's drop shocks

[J Knight]

Originally Posted by GAM3OVR

I understand that, but most people cut the original coils. What I am asking is will it still give 2" on a NEW spring versus one that has been on a truck for over twenty years.

Yes on new springs too.

[57ToyBox]

Coil springs are designed to have a SEAT on their last coil so even pressure is distributed throughout the hole coil.
If you cut out the top or bottom coil, you loose the coil seat. Resulting in uneven coil pressure distribution. This will cause your coil spring to curve / arc. Later possibly breaking the coil.
Don't cut coil springs. Buy proper drop kits. It's piece of mind and safer
pg 145 0f the 73 to 87 chev truck http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cc/full.aspx?Page=145

[GAM3OVR]

I usually buy drop springs, but I have seen alot of people here and other forums cutting originals for a better ride. Price isnt the reason I was considering cutting.

[J Knight]

Originally Posted by 57ToyBox

Coil springs are designed to have a SEAT on their last coil so even pressure is distributed throughout the hole coil.
If you cut out the top or bottom coil, you loose the coil seat. Resulting in uneven coil pressure distribution. This will cause your coil spring to curve / arc. Later possibly breaking the coil.
Don't cut coil springs. Buy proper drop kits. It's piece of mind and safer
pg 145 0f the 73 to 87 chev truck http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cc/full.aspx?Page=145

I respectfully disagree, I've never experienced, seen, read, or heard of this problem from anyone here or on any other forum. I've run cut coils myself with zero issues for years.

[LEEVON]

You are right on with the less bounce theory. I know about spring rates, yada, yada but real world experience says stock springs with one less coil ride a little sportier and don't float.

I stopped spending money on drop coils long ago. I'm not saying they don't work, although I have had rough riding "drop" springs disappoint but if you're not cutting more than 1 round and the springs are in good shape (no sagging) then you have nothing to worry about.

Here's an '87 I had with a flip kit, spindles and one original coil cut. Cutting exactly one round allows the coil to seat in the factory upper spring pocket just fine. This truck rode BETTER (not an exaggeration) than stock and aligned perfectly. Better than any other lowered truck I've owned (a bunch), including (2) 2008's that I dropped a bunch of money on finding the right lowering parts.

[GAM3OVR]

Thanks for your input. That's a beautiful truck.

[cory d]

cutting a coil will slightly increase the rate of the spring so it will be a a little firmer. thats a good thing. these stock coils are too soft. im running the heaviest coils for these trucks with 2 coils cut out (discontinued GM part) (or moog 6454). i dig the ride with my 1 1/4" sway bar and im on all polly bushings. if they are the puny half tn straight 6 coils i would ditch those things and head to the scrap yard for some stiffer ones. they are too floaty and soft

[INSIDIOUS '86]

Ditch the djm shocks to and get some better shocks. With the quality of djm parts I'm sure the shocks are more at fault. Shocks are what control a bounce in a vehicle and need to match up to spring rate.

As for the alignment issues. What exactly did the say? They can't get enough negative camber dialed out? Longer grade 8 bolts fix this. Some people with 3" drop springs have to do this. Other aspect is the alignment tech is incompetent or doesn't want to deal with it. That happens more often than not nowadays

[Keith Seymore]

Originally Posted by J Knight

I respectfully disagree, I've never experienced, seen, read, or heard of this problem from anyone here or on any other forum. I've run cut coils myself with zero issues for years.

x2.

I've got 200,000 miles and 27 years of daily use on cut stock front coils with no issues. Have also done seven or eight other trucks over the years with no issues.

Originally Posted by GAM3OVR

That's a beautiful truck.

Whoa! I agree! Methinks I need to drop the back of mine just a smidge.

K

[GAM3OVR]

Originally Posted by INSIDIOUS '86

Ditch the djm shocks to and get some better shocks. With the quality of djm parts I'm sure the shocks are more at fault. Shocks are what control a bounce in a vehicle and need to match up to spring rate.

As for the alignment issues. What exactly did the say? They can't get enough negative camber dialed out? Longer grade 8 bolts fix this. Some people with 3" drop springs have to do this. Other aspect is the alignment tech is incompetent or doesn't want to deal with it. That happens more often than not nowadays

I have used Belltech SP shocks on my other vehicles. The DJM's were on there when I got it. I would agree they are not as good as some others but I don't think they are part of this problem. I really think the spring is the issue here, DJM specifically warns against it. "Please resist the temptation to add the 3″ coil to a control arm or spindle install. A 6″ will put your crossmember nearly on the ground and the ride quality is poor."

It does have a negative camber issue. The bolts in the upper control arm have been replaced with longer ones and the arms have been shimmed out. It also has had a coil spring spacer put in. My alignment guy has straightened up all of my lowered vehicles, so that's not an issue.

[Jonboy]

Originally Posted by GAM3OVR

I have used Belltech SP shocks on my other vehicles. The DJM's were on there when I got it. I would agree they are not as good as some others but I don't think they are part of this problem. I really think the spring is the issue here, DJM specifically warns against it. "Please resist the temptation to add the 3″ coil to a control arm or spindle install. A 6″ will put your crossmember nearly on the ground and the ride quality is poor."

It does have a negative camber issue. The bolts in the upper control arm have been replaced with longer ones and the arms have been shimmed out. It also has had a coil spring spacer put in. My alignment guy has straightened up all of my lowered vehicles, so that's not an issue.

Everyone has opinions, and my '74 with a 6/8 drop rode fine (to me). It had been done years prior to my ownership, but still looked and rode great. Of course, this is subjective; but I liked it. This was with a 3" Bell Tech spindle and cut stock spring. That being said, if the roads in your neck of the woods are a little sketchy, I probably wouldn't want the truck quite that low. Around here (D/FW), the roads are pretty decent for the most part.

[Blackpony]

I am running djm drop arms with stock springs that have 1 coil cut. Along with stock Monroe shocks from oreillys and my truck rides great! I went from drop springs and stock arms to this setup and the ride is night and day better now. Also running a flip kit out back, the stance is perfect IMO. Ill try and grab a shot after work.

[INSIDIOUS '86]

Well I have 3"springs and 3" spindles. I daily drive it over the crappy Washington roads we have here with little issue. My headers are the issue not the susp

Second off. Anything djm says is crap so far only thier spindles work off thier whole product line and even there their manufacturing ignorance shows heavily. Don't get their springs. I'm sure those will be sloppy as well.

How far is your crossmember off the ground? I have what I believe to be belltech drop springs up front and they seem to be decently stiff although I'm going to try one ton springs to see if that will help when I'm driving faster than I should over bumpy roads which is at about 50+mph on 35mph roads with paving done so half assed its silly.

If your tires are worn heavily on the inside and it's been re aligned try some new tires and watch the insides. At this point it may be to much toe out causing the wear. Did your alignment guy give you a sheet that tells you your current and prev alignment specs? Any good shop will do this. Try new shocks for now and see if that cures the issue. Bilstein and Monroe sensa track are of the same valving and have been pretty impressive on the rear of my truck considering I'm 8" drop and no notch.

[Hertzdaddy]

Originally Posted by J Knight

Cutting one round off the stock coil spring is a 2in drop.

1.5 to 2" in my experience. And every coil after that is more like 3". I cut 1 1/2 coils and got a 3" drop.