Yeah, I really did it this time....

[NC_John]

So much for my plans of a quick in'n'out of the engine for a reseal. I've got a shortblock right now. Decided to pull the heads and my Dad said I'd be nuts not to at least change out the valve seals (he was right, they were completely disintegrated). So at this point of the disassembly I figure it'd be just stupid not to do everything and have a 100% fresh engine. Doing rings, bearings, cam, lifters..... getting the heads redone- valve job, guides, unleaded fuel valve-seats.

Oh well... its only money. At least it'll be done right and I won't have to do it again in a year or two!

(and yeah, I know I put the heads back together wrong! I just put the parts back together like that to keep everything matched up the way it should be! )

[70cst]

100%

Do it right the first time and it will save you headaches later on

[67_C-30]

Might as well do it right the first and be done with it! Northern Auto Parts has a great engine kit for 350's and you are going to be hard pressed to find a better deal. I've built probably a dozen of them with kit and its all good quality stuff. I've built several budget street/street 350 builds with those kits, and they hold up well.

[cstewart8808]

dont feel bad. i did the same thing about 8 months ago. then bought a toyota truck and put the v8 in it (still not all the way done) . now recently i bought a 350 700r4 combo and am in the process of putting it in the truck.......


anyways my point is dont get side tracked like i did lol

[GASoline71]

If that's the original unrebuilt engine, it will probably need to be overbored to get the bores cleaned up. So be ready to buy a set of pistons and pins too.

Gary

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by GASoline71

If that's the original unrebuilt engine, it will probably need to be overbored to get the bores cleaned up. So be ready to buy a set of pistons and pins too.

Gary

Best as I can tell, I am the first to crack this engine open. Everything looks original with all GM parts of the right vintage (going by part numbers). They must have changed the oil when they were supposed to along the way because everything is in great shape internally and sludge buildup is very minimal compared to what I'm used to seeing.

With an indicated 115K miles on the truck, the ridge at the top of the bores is very minor. The machine shop said the charge for ridge-reaming and honing is about the same as boring 0.010" over and I was thinking about just doing it BUT I can save some money if I reuse my original pistons.

The shop priced new 0.030 over pistons, rings, all bearings (including cam), gaskets/seals, cam and lifters, oil pump, timing set and freeze plug set for just $220. The pistons were cast silv-o-lites. I can't remember what the other stuff was- I didn't recognize the cam brand but he said it was a stock grind. Price is crazy low for all that stuff so I definitely need to ask more questions....

[67_C-30]

They are probably going to mark up the Northern kit a little and sell it to you. Don't be afraid of the price of the Northern kit. The 350 Chevy is the cheapest V8 engine to be build on the planet. They made millions of them.

The Northern kit comes with a Sealed Power CS-274 cam, which is basically the most common cam ever installed in a SBC. It was used from the late 60's up into the 80's. It would be the same grind as what your truck came with. The beauty of the Northern kit is that you can upgrade the camshaft, gasket kit, oil pump, etc. for less money than you can buy the parts individually. I'd buy this kit and use the new pistons even if you don't decide to bore it.

Check it out here:
http://www.northernautoparts.com/part/ek-ek1070

The upgrades are down the page.

The kit starts at $199.99 and comes standard with:
Chevy 350 1969-1980 Master Kit

Includes:
•Sealed Power Camshaft
•Speed Pro Lifters
•Melling stock Timing set
•Silvolite Flattop Pistons
•Perfect Circle Cast Piston Rings
•Federal Mogul Rod Bearings
•Federal Mogul Main Bearings
•Federal Mogul Cam Bearings
•Melling stock volume Oil Pump
•Melling steel Frost Plugs
•Mr. Gasket overhaul Gasket Set

Its all quality stuff, and like I said, I've used these kits for over 15 years with great success. This kit was $149.99 in 1997 when I bought the first I ever used from them. -lol

[70CHEVYBB]

gm crate motor just bought one, 260hp valve cover to oil pan. I comes with a 300hp 327 cam ready to dress and drop in 1650 from the local chevy dealer.

[67_C-30]

Originally Posted by 70CHEVYBB

gm crate motor just bought one, 260hp valve cover to oil pan. I comes with a 300hp 327 cam ready to dress and drop in 1650 from the local chevy dealer.

There's nothing wrong with the GM crate engines, but I think the OP wants to stay with the original engine. I build my own engines, and even after farming out boring the block and having a valve job done, I can build two .030" over 350's for $1650.

Of course, like I said, I build engines, so I have all the mics, torque wrench, and other tools needed to check everything, and build the engine.

The cam that comes in the 260 HP crate engine is the same .390/.410 lift CS-274 grind mentioned above.

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by 67_C-30

Check it out here:
http://www.northernautoparts.com/part/ek-ek1070

THAT was what I needed- the link. I was on their website yesterday but couldn't find the kits. Yeah, that looks real nice. They even have the cam I want to upgrade to.

Thanks!

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by 67_C-30

There's nothing wrong with the GM crate engines, but I think the OP wants to stay with the original engine. I build my own engines, and even after farming out boring the block and having a valve job done, I can build two .030" over 350's for $1650.

I was very seriously considering a GM crate engine but am happy I am keeping the original in there. Its not a collectible muscle car but its still nice to have everything numbers matching. I've never owned anything of this vintage that somebody hasn't changed stuff around with

I only have to have the machine work done out of house- the assembly I can do myself, no problem, taking my time and being sure its done right. The last time I had a shop do a partial assembly for me they put the rods on half the pistons backwards. Morons.

This will let me spec out the parts I want too- like getting the exact cam I want instead of what comes in the crate.

AND.....maybe most importantly..... What's up with the GM Goodwrench stuff being made in Mexico? I just got a brand new GM balancer for mine through the dealer and right on the box- "Made in Mexico." WTF? I grew up in a GM town (engines and rear-ends) and this still pisses me off. With all the other stuff I need to still do to the truck I can't spend the money for a GM Performance engine. Are they even built domestically?

Anyway- I'll be proud to say I built this one I'm doing now. And its more fun to build than to just buy! The first time you fire one up you assembled yourself is awesome.

[67_C-30]

Originally Posted by NC_John

I was very seriously considering a GM crate engine but am happy I am keeping the original in there. Its not a collectible muscle car but its still nice to have everything numbers matching. I've never owned anything of this vintage that somebody hasn't changed stuff around with

I only have to have the machine work done out of house- the assembly I can do myself, no problem, taking my time and being sure its done right. The last time I had a shop do a partial assembly for me they put the rods on half the pistons backwards. Morons.

This will let me spec out the parts I want too- like getting the exact cam I want instead of what comes in the crate.

AND.....maybe most importantly..... What's up with the GM Goodwrench stuff being made in Mexico? I just got a brand new GM balancer for mine through the dealer and right on the box- "Made in Mexico." WTF? I grew up in a GM town (engines and rear-ends) and this still pisses me off. With all the other stuff I need to still do to the truck I can't spend the money for a GM Performance engine. Are they even built domestically?

Anyway- I'll be proud to say I built this one I'm doing now. And its more fun to build than to just buy! The first time you fire one up you assembled yourself is awesome.

Most of the entire line of crate engines are made in Mexico (they actually have "Hecho En Mexico" casted into the block). Some of the higher end ones are made here, but I know the ZZ4 is a mexican engine. They are pretty good engines, but sadly enough, they would much more expensive than $1600 - $1700 if they were made here.

Your heads should be better than what comes on the 260HP crate engine (depending on what casting number they are). I prefer to build my own engines, and I always have, mainly because I can spec out the engine to fit the exact needs of what I want.

If you run into any snags or need any help, give me a shout. I've lost count of how many SBC's I've built, and I have no problem sharing my experiences of what worked well, etc.

[slow-1]

I am no expert, but I dont thing flat top pistons came original in our trucks...I am thinking yours has been rebuilt before.

One clue to look for is if the main bearing caps and the rods have numbers (sequential) stamped on them.

Maybe I am wrong...but if I am right, you may not need to bore the cylinders.

Do you have access to a bore micrometer?

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by slow-1

I am no expert, but I dont thing flat top pistons came original in our trucks...I am thinking yours has been rebuilt before.

One clue to look for is if the main bearing caps and the rods have numbers (sequential) stamped on them.

Maybe I am wrong...but if I am right, you may not need to bore the cylinders.

Do you have access to a bore micrometer?

I'll defer to an expert too but I'm betting these are original. No numbers or marks on any of the caps or rods (I looked when I opened it, I've marked sets myself like that). Absolutely every seal in the engine looked factory- I saw no signs of anybody tinkering in there at all- my Dad agreed with that too- he's been wrenching on this stuff for decades.

I could probably get my hands on a bore micrometer....

ADDED - they are original- I found them pictured in the factory overhaul manual (section 6-26).

[slow-1]

Cool...I took mine apart the first time in 1985, I cant believe I dont remember what the pistons looked like .

I must have been picturing in my mind a different 350 I took apart at some point...or maybe it wasnt a 350 at all...I have taken apart a bunch of them.

[67_C-30]

Originally Posted by slow-1

Cool...I took mine apart the first time in 1985, I cant believe I dont remember what the pistons looked like .

I must have been picturing in my mind a different 350 I took apart at some point...or maybe it wasnt a 350 at all...I have taken apart a bunch of them.

I'm not 100% sure, but I think dished pistons started in '71 on the truck engines, so you both may be right!

EDIT: I just looked it up, and the compression ratio was 9.0 : 1 in 1970 and was lowered to 8.5 : 1 in 1971.

[slow-1]

That makes me feel less senile...I am almost positive I remembered dished pistons in mine...a 72.

Thanks for the info.

[Jimjific]

Not to state the obvious, but if this is your first build make sure you take the "keeping things clean" advice seriously. Clean everything twice and when you get to putting it together, clean everything again. And, if I forgot to tell you make sure everything is clean before you assemble.

Check out this engine build site when you have some free time (I've been following for a bit since I plan on building one of these for an "S" code Cougar I have). Sure it's an FE build, but his techniques apply across any engine build and there is a lot of good info on it.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...i-FE-Big-Block

Jim

[67_C-30]

Originally Posted by Jimjific

Not to state the obvious, but if this is your first build make sure you take the "keeping things clean" advice seriously. Clean everything twice and when you get to putting it together, clean everything again. And, if I forgot to tell you make sure everything is clean before you assemble.

Check out this engine build site when you have some free time (I've been following for a bit since I plan on building one of these for an "S" code Cougar I have). Sure it's an FE build, but his techniques apply across any engine build and there is a lot of good info on it.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...i-FE-Big-Block

Jim

I couldn't agree with this more! I never take for granted how clean anything is, whether it is new or not.

I'm so anal about it, that after I brush, brush, and brush some more in the oiling holes of the crank, I use white pipe cleaners to run through them until they no longer get dirty.