68 fuel gauge

[AzDon]

I just went through this a couple of months ago...... Here's what you do to isolate the sender as the problem....
That brown wire has a connector that can be unplugged.......
Disconnected puts the needle at one end of the gauge and grounding the wire puts the needle at the other end (I've forgotten which function is which end of the gauge)
If this test produces these results then the problem is either the sender itself, or the last piece of brown wire going to it..... The problem on mine was that the float had a hole in it and sank ($6 from LMC)
As for the hole in the floor, I would NOT use a circular saw!! The PO of my burb had used a circular saw and the hole looked like crap because he had run past the corners some and then resorted to chiseling to cut all the way to the corners because the circular blade wouldnt go all the way to the corners underneath without WAY overrunning the corners on top.... Obviously you cant use a sawzall or sabre saw because youd damage stuff underneath....
The correct tool for the job is a router with a quarter inch straight blade and a proper frame (fence) fastened around it. This solves both the depth issue and the corner issue. Just drill a hole where you want to start the cut, set the depth, and away you go!
!

Good Luck!

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by AzDon

I just went through this a couple of months ago...... Here's what you do to isolate the sender as the problem....
That brown wire has a connector that can be unplugged.......
Disconnected puts the needle at one end of the gauge and grounding the wire puts the needle at the other end (I've forgotten which function is which end of the gauge)
If this test produces these results then the problem is either the sender itself, or the last piece of brown wire going to it..... The problem on mine was that the float had a hole in it and sank ($6 from LMC)
As for the hole in the floor, I would NOT use a circular saw!! The PO of my burb had used a circular saw and the hole looked like crap because he had run past the corners some and then resorted to chiseling to cut all the way to the corners because the circular blade wouldnt go all the way to the corners underneath without WAY overrunning the corners on top.... Obviously you cant use a sawzall or sabre saw because youd damage stuff underneath....
The correct tool for the job is a router with a quarter inch straight blade and a proper frame (fence) fastened around it. This solves both the depth issue and the corner issue. Just drill a hole where you want to start the cut, set the depth, and away you go!


Good Luck!

As noted in the thread I posted the link to, I used my small tool box saw to finish the corners out and it worked very well. I went a little past the corners with the skill saw but not enough to hurt anything. If a person was concerned about it all they would have to do is put a little filler in it and touch it up with some flat black paint...

I don't think I would tell people not to use a certain tool because someone that obviously didn't know what they were doing messed something up...

Yes, the router would work very well for that and I have several, but most people do not have a router unless they do a lot of woodworking. That is why I chose to do the how to with a tool that almost every homeowner owns. The circular saw worked very well.

LockDoc

[AzDon]

It was not my intention to offend anybody.....I was unsatisfied with the way the hole turned out after the PO of my burb cut it with a circular saw.... I realize that the plate you make to cover the hole is going to cover any ugliness, but I wanted a nicely finished hole of at least OEM quality after coating..... I bought a router specifically to enlarge and square-up the hole and finish to the corners..... It cost me less than $100.....
I believe that the wood around the corners is much stronger than if I left the cuts that overrun the corners, but it certainly looks a lot nicer..... These are just small details really!
The point of my post was to explain a quick test of the sending unit to save the trouble of looking further if the sender is not working.... My reply also assumes that the ground wire to the sender is intact and grounded properly.