What did you do to your truck today? Chapter II

[palallin]

We put my truck's front end up on jackstands today and pulled the front drums and brake hardware. Tomorrow, I'll install new wheel cylinders and rubber lines as well as all new hardware and shoes. I also have a Master Cylinder on order; if it gets here, it will go on, too.

I've had problems with the passenger side sticking, so I am replacing everything but the hard lines.

[Andy4639]

I finally broke down and cleaned the 67 Ramp truck. I washed it off cleaned the inside up good. Vacuumed it out and wiped all the windows with cleaner then rain x!
Looks much better oh and fixed the cig lighter and installed my 2018 HRPT front tag.

[palallin]

OK, well today went reasonably well. I managed to replace both wheel cylinders and front hoses. Those old hoses were in bad shape, and I doubt much fluid was moving in them.

Replacing the wheel cylinders requires removing the hubs, so the outer bearings got a cleanup and regreasing, and the engagement gears were all inspected and reset.

Replacing the hoses ended up requiring the removal of the hard lines and the junction block inside the frame on the driver's side--what a pain in the rump.

Take my advice: if you ever have your front clip off or the engine out--or, better yet, both--replace those hoses! It would be a LOT easier to do unimpeded by such inconvenient parts as the power steering pump, the fuel pump (I had to disconnect the fuel line), and so forth!

Your hoses probably need replaced anyway. Mine sure did.

TOMORROW: actually fitting the brake shoes and attendant hardware and, I hope, the new master cylinder.

[palallin]

Day 3: Church, shopping, and rain all conspired to shorten the working time, so all we got accomplished today was the mounting of the brake shoes and hardware. I slipped the drums on just to make sure nothing gets jostled or rained on tonight.

Oh, yeah, and I reattached the fuel line to the pump.

Tomorrow (rain dependent): Master cylinder and bleeding. Oh, how I hope the penetrant I put on those rear bleeders works!

[VWNate1]

This is a common problem, the solution is fairly simple :

Right after you spray the next shot of penetrating oil on the threads, *SMACK* the bleeder screw dead on with a hammer, the shock will wick the penetrant in and loosen the threads .

If you smack it off center or sideways, you'll snap it off so pay close attention here .

I'm sure you already know to only use a SIX POINTED tool on any bleeder valve ! .

[Killer Bee]

^^^ yep, they come in real handy.. had this fully welded hoosier about 25 years..

stripped and repainted several years ago with clark forklift hot yellow green so I can't lose it..

welded a handle bar on the mast with bycycle hand grips to make it easier to steer..

got a 12vdc 1gal barnes hydraulic power unit for it, just haven't hooked it up yet..

that D60 is about 500lbs, good portable hoist made short work unloading it recently..

[palallin]

Originally Posted by VWNate1

This is a common problem, the solution is fairly simple :

Right after you spray the next shot of penetrating oil on the threads, *SMACK* the bleeder screw dead on with a hammer, the shock will wick the penetrant in and loosen the threads .

If you smack it off center or sideways, you'll snap it off so pay close attention here .

I'm sure you already know to only use a SIX POINTED tool on any bleeder valve ! .

Actually, the one bleeder cooperated very easily. The other resisted firmly, so I switched to the line fitting, and it loosened without much trouble at all. and, oh yes: 6-pt box end or socket--absolutely!

I've got some pedal but not as much as I want, so there will be more bleeding in the near future. I would have done some more today, but the test run got everything hot, and I didn't want to crawl back under that way.

The last time I replaced the MC, I had to replace one of the short steel lines between the MC and the distribution block, and the replacement didn't survive the removal, so we had to drive into town to pick up a replacement for the replacement.

I tried to knock the little adjustment slots out of the new drums, but the stamping wasn't deep enough, and the punch just distorted the metal rather than knocking it out. I may go to the trouble of drilling, but not till Fall ;-)

[Drummerboy]

I picked up some 15x6 steel wheels so I can run steelies on with my new disc brakes.

[weq92f]

Decided to pull the pan to replace the gasket....

Bad idea... not enough room...

Now I own a 2 ton engine hoist!


-klb

[Boog]

Oh but there are other uses for that hoist. I use mine several times a year at home. I don't pull and lift some of the things I used to.

[KQQL IT]

Finally got my M/T challengers on.

New lugnuts are on their way the old ones really look bad, and my short center cap was to short in the back.

[VWNate1]

Those engine hoists are neat .

Just remember to collapse the cylinder completely every time you're finished using it else the ram will rust and begin to leak, ruining it .

[ohboy321]

I pulled my bench seat out today to fix a squeak behind it, and to take some pictures to see what I will need to fix it up over the winter. Found the tag that IDs it as a basic 69 (cab is a 67), and that it needs several springs replaced right under the drivers arse. Got the tracks sliding nice....fixed the squeak, put the seat back in and took it for a nice ride. Plus, today was Vintage Truck magazines "Drive Your Old Truck Day 2018", and I wanted to get out a few times....like I need an excuse

[JWSmith]

installed brake and fuel lines, everything hooked up and in final resting place. Bled brakes. Ran wires to the corners for lights, etc.

[robs71]

Received my bed floor kit from Larry ((GR8-68)) for my 72 super project....beautiful workmanship from this man..had him finish both sides and predrill so its ready to go.

[GR8-68]

Originally Posted by robs71

Received my bed floor kit from Larry ((GR8-68)) for my 72 super project....beautiful workmanship from this man..had him finish both sides and predrill so its ready to go.

Thanks Rob, glad to see another pleased customer, can't wait to see pics of it installed

[bill3rail]

Installed Sound Deadener and new carpeting in the cab then took the wife out for a drive.

Bill

[stormtown]

installed new exhaust isolators and put hangers in. Have to wait on middle isolators til tomorrow

[Patch]

Got the behemoth rear bumper off today and the aftermarket 4 ft long hitch cut out. It's getting there.

[Beau2a]

Got the stock drivetrain out and took the bed off. Lost the original timing chain at 99,996 miles. No compression. Have a 5.3/4l60e on the way and moving tank under the bed

[stevenfromtexas]

painted my tail gate today.....

[stevenfromtexas]

...

[Steeveedee]

Replaced the fan clutch a couple of weeks ago. Took it and ran it at 65 MPH up a long steep freeway grade that we have here. Got to 220º going up, and dropped to 205º on the way down. Cruising in town coming back home, it held right about 205º. I'll drain the radiator down far enough to check the tubes for crud. I have a 7-mile jaunt scheduled for a camp out close to home, to check it out further, and I won't be driving that fast- with the trailer it'll not be over 55- and some of the road is posted for 45 MPH. It ought to be running a little hot, when the air temperature is still over 110º. All this is with a 190º thermostat.

I'm up in the air whether to rod this one (if that is all it needs), as it is a 4-row brass job, replace it with the same, or get an aluminum radiator. Any one know off hand if the aluminum radiators are a direct fit? I've seen some pics of modifications being required to the radiator hose connections.

[VWNate1]

As you said you have a four row core brass radiator it's a fairly simple thing to clean, use powdered citric acid mixed one pound of citric acid to each gallon of distilled water ~ mix this outside of the radiator and drive it a day or two, the coolant will turn dead black as it does it's thing, drain, flush and repeat until there's no clouds in the water / acid mix and no visible solder bloom .

This works with aluminum cooling systems too .

Remember to leave the heater's water valve wide open so it gets cleaned out too and never use tap water ! .

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by VWNate1

As you said you have a four row core brass radiator it's a fairly simple thing to clean, use powdered citric acid mixed one pound of citric acid to each gallon of distilled water ~ mix this outside of the radiator and drive it a day or two, the coolant will turn dead black as it does it's thing, drain, flush and repeat until there's no clouds in the water / acid mix and no visible solder bloom .

This works with aluminum cooling systems too .

Remember to leave the heater's water valve wide open so it gets cleaned out too and never use tap water ! .

Thanks! I flushed it about 5 years ago and put in water wetter and water pump lube, along with 50/50 coolant. I'll do this flushing after I get back from camping. We're not going all that far and it's pretty much level ground so we should be good for that little trip. I don't know if I have solder bloom, I haven't checked yet. I'll be doing checking that tomorrow. The wife wants the trailer in front of our house tomorrow to plug in the fridge and get it good and cold before we leave and it switches to propane. I'm charging the batteries which were deader than a mackerel. But that's a different problem to deal with. I'm thinking master disconnect or a solar panel and a voltage regulator to keep the batteries topped up. First I have to make sure that the batteries are any good after being flat for about a year, since that's how long it's been since we went camping last. Hand surgery has put that item on hold.