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03-04-2014, 11:53 AM | #26 |
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Location: Flin Flon, Manitoba, Canada
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Re: Shortening front shackles?
I have 3" dropped mono leafs for the front and 6" reverse eye dropped mono's for the rear. If I were to go back to 16" rims with a bit taller tire up front, I wouldn't have near the clearance concerns I have right now.
If you lower your truck 3". then you will need a 4 degree caster shim, just to insure your wheel comes back to center after turning a corner. The adjustment in caster makes a HUGE difference to the way your truck will handle. If i was to do it all over again, I would do the dropped axle, super slider leaf spring and keep the 16" rims. That would give me about 1-1/2" off added clearance than I have now but I would still be able to haul a load on the bed. With mono leafs, your load limit is cut drastically
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My name's Tim and I'm a truckaholic My 56 Chevy shop truck build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=562795 |
03-04-2014, 01:41 PM | #27 |
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Re: Shortening front shackles?
Another thing to consider when lowering a solid axle truck, is the drag link.
It should be paralell to the ground when sitting. Otherwise you get alot of "bump steer." Some guys have made their own by using offset tie rod ends. Others have bent the factory arm, which I don't recommend. Or, make an offset one out of DOM and screw in ends. |
03-04-2014, 02:20 PM | #28 |
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Location: Boise, Idaho
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Re: Shortening front shackles?
And to clarify the whole drag link thing, here you go. Some how bending it to be parallal is not going to do it. On the one on the top of my drawing (sorry about pathetic art work) labeled "Stock", if you were to make that drag link shaped like a letter Z it would still work, because the pivot points are level. The pivot point is all that matters. If they aren't level they are going to follow a different arc as the last drawing shows.
And if the photo is on it's side, I am sorry. I rotated it in photo bucket but it takes a while or something for it work do the same where it's posted, I don't understand that but I have a flip phone so what do I know. Brian
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1948 Chevy pickup Chopped, Sectioned, 1953 Corvette 235 powered. Once was even 401 Buick mid engined with the carburetor right between the seats! Bought with paper route money in 1973 when I was 15. "Fan of most anything that moves human beings" |
03-04-2014, 02:49 PM | #29 |
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Location: Houston Texas
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Re: Shortening front shackles?
I'm not a fan of lowering these old trucks or making choppers out of motorcycles and not just because of my taste.
A LOT of engineering time went into developing something that works well. Seems like nonsense to butcher that design to achieve someone's version of cool. I don't think I've ever left anything as it came from the factory but my changes are cosmetic.
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Gale Gorman '54 3100 '67 C20 stepside |
03-04-2014, 03:29 PM | #30 | |
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Re: Shortening front shackles?
Quote:
Sooooooo, my point of this rant is that todays traffic is not one bit different than it was 50 years ago! The DIFFERENCE is how people see it. Ok, that and the other issue with modifying cars and trucks is what are the owners expectations and does he even know what his expectations are? Has he even driven the car when it was stock and in good condition? How does he KNOW he has to have disc brakes? How does he KNOW he has to have an independent suspension? Most builders don't, they THINK they need to make all these up grades like the darn car is going to fall apart if they hit these "modern" streets with their 1950 car or truck, like the thing can't handle it or something. Then with the whole "what if my truck breaks down on the road, where will I get parts?" Like they are going to rebuild the engine on the side of the interstate or something! Maintain your truck and it's not a problem. That all being said, these trucks are pretty simply and the geometry is easy to understand and CAN be modified properly. One sure as heck doesn't need to replace the frame because they need to have disc brakes. Brian
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1948 Chevy pickup Chopped, Sectioned, 1953 Corvette 235 powered. Once was even 401 Buick mid engined with the carburetor right between the seats! Bought with paper route money in 1973 when I was 15. "Fan of most anything that moves human beings" |
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03-04-2014, 04:25 PM | #31 | |
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Re: Shortening front shackles?
Quote:
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Gale Gorman '54 3100 '67 C20 stepside |
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03-04-2014, 04:48 PM | #32 |
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Re: Shortening front shackles?
after dropping mine by 6" I heated my steering arm and bent it to make the drag link parallel. As long as you don't rush the process and heat the spot cherry red and make your bend, it all works out nicely. I haven't had a single instance of bump steer since I started driving it.
I have see guys build a modified drag ling so they were able to rotate the end to fit from the under side of the steering arm to prevent having to make any mods to the arm. Like the one pictured here. THIS is a great idea, I wish I would have seen it before I did mine
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My name's Tim and I'm a truckaholic My 56 Chevy shop truck build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=562795 |
03-04-2014, 04:52 PM | #33 |
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Re: Shortening front shackles?
Can you post a side view?
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Gale Gorman '54 3100 '67 C20 stepside |
03-04-2014, 07:40 PM | #34 |
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Re: Shortening front shackles?
I have a couple other shots of it, but you may want to check the link I put up for Devlin to look at and click on page 5. You still need to heat the hole in the steering arm and reverse the taper to make it work right
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My name's Tim and I'm a truckaholic My 56 Chevy shop truck build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=562795 |
03-04-2014, 09:13 PM | #35 |
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Re: Shortening front shackles?
There are issues with heating that though! Heat it slowly, heat a large area and let it cool naturally. I am no metallurgist but I believe that would be the best way to affect that metal the least amount. But a little study is HIGHLY recommended.
My brother had a 39 Ford coupe that had that mod done before he got it. He had raced it at drags running 13's at 100 mph and had driven it all over when one day he was pulling into the driveway after a high speed run 20 miles or so up the freeway to get a part. As he pulled into the driveway he put it in reverse after he decided to go around the front of the shop instead, the steering wheel spun in his hands! That steering arm had broken clean off! double Brian
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1948 Chevy pickup Chopped, Sectioned, 1953 Corvette 235 powered. Once was even 401 Buick mid engined with the carburetor right between the seats! Bought with paper route money in 1973 when I was 15. "Fan of most anything that moves human beings" |
03-04-2014, 09:35 PM | #36 |
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Re: Shortening front shackles?
Yup, I've heard of that happening. I have a spare steering arm and will be looking to fabricate a set up such as this adjustable drag link, just in case these one does break
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My name's Tim and I'm a truckaholic My 56 Chevy shop truck build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=562795 |
03-05-2014, 09:23 AM | #37 |
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Re: Shortening front shackles?
Thanks guys for all the help and insight. Looks like Im going to progress slowly and in steps, as I too am used to driving old original trucks, so I dont want to affect the driveability too much as well as functionality. That being said, I am going to start wtih some lowering springs and any other little mods that need to be done to make it still handle as well as it can. Other than the shims that Dubie mentioned that I had read about before when looking to drop the axle, are there other things I should take into account? This drag link mod, is it going to be an issue with just doing lowered springs or is it a dropped axle concern?
Of course I will be getting some shorter shocks. Thanks for your time.
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