Another 489bbc question

[Roll'nSlo]

Originally Posted by softballnrd27

Here is my 2 cents(with some questions)
Is the truck a long term or short term project? Is it currently running? Do you really want to stroke it?
If you want a stroker big block then just do it in stages or save a little longer to get the right parts. Looking back on my truck's past I would have done things a little different but I can't change that now. If it were me I would start from the bottom up and answer this question: What am I going to need in order to support XXX amount of HP/TQ? Get your driveline in order 1st and then build the motor. 700 hp is no fun if you can't use it bc of a weak driveline. You might have already done the above. If a stoker is really what you want then stroke it and upgrade from there. Get the foundation built and build upon it more as the $$$ allows. Do you have a complete Big block? If so just use the heads/intake and supporting stuff from that until you can put the better high dollar bolt-ons later on down the road.
Everyone has their own way of doing things and there are some very smart people on this board(i'm not one of them LOL) so take all the advice given and use it how you see fit.

I'll answer each of your questions. On the length of the build I don't really have a time frame. Want it done like yesterday but who doesn't. Neither the truck or motor is currently running. Truck is in pieces all the way to the frame at the moment. I want to stroke it for more cubes. I'm waiting to get the engine done and dyno done to see what I end up with. Then I'll tackle the drivetrain. Maybe backwards but it's the best way for me I think. I have a complete 454. Was running when it was pulled out of the truck. It was left in the PO yard covered up. Has a slight ridge in the cylinders and no rust.

I agree everyone has their own ways. I've learned a lot from this thread and appreciate all the advice and input.

[Roll'nSlo]

Ok. That's what I thought. I just don't want to bore it .060 just incase something happens and I need to bore it again.

[68c10owner]

Originally Posted by Roll'nSlo

Ok. That's what I thought. I just don't want to bore it .060 just incase something happens and I need to bore it again.

If you have your block sonic checked and its thick enough some 454 blocks can got .125 over.

[Blue Rat]

Originally Posted by 68c10owner

If you have your block sonic checked and its thick enough some 454 blocks can got .125 over.

Yep.

[Roll'nSlo]

May do that to squeeze a little more out of it if possible.

[Blue Rat]

The 468 will be more than enough if you decide to go that route.

[bbcmudtruck]

If you have a standard bore block that will clean up at .30, go that route. No need in boring the block more than needed. Your not going to miss the difference between the 489 and a 496. If your starting from scratch, get ahold of cnc motor sports for a rotating assembly. They are truly balanced in house before shipped to you. Unlike jets or summit. Ideally, you'd want a 4.25 stroke crank, 6.385 rods and pistons to match accordingly. I prefer scat assemblys, but anything can be broken if abused! You'll need your rotating assembly before you take your block to the machine shop. Almost forgot, if it hasn't been mentioned yet, be sure to get an internal balanced crank. You'll need a neutral flex plate and 427 harmonic dampner.

[Kyle@FTP]

Originally Posted by Roll'nSlo

May do that to squeeze a little more out of it if possible.

If your going to put it on the bottle, Make sure you plan for that. If its just a 100 shot you will be fine with most parts but anymore and you will want a solid piston/rings and the cam will be a little different as well.

Originally Posted by bbcmudtruck

If you have a standard bore block that will clean up at .30, go that route. No need in boring the block more than needed. Your not going to miss the difference between the 489 and a 496. If your starting from scratch, get ahold of cnc motor sports for a rotating assembly. They are truly balanced in house before shipped to you. Unlike jets or summit. Ideally, you'd want a 4.25 stroke crank, 6.385 rods and pistons to match accordingly. I prefer scat assemblys, but anything can be broken if abused! You'll need your rotating assembly before you take your block to the machine shop. Almost forgot, if it hasn't been mentioned yet, be sure to get an internal balanced crank. You'll need a neutral flex plate and 427 harmonic dampner.

I never got the internal/external balancing. Ya sure its great to have the assembly balanced with less weight on the ends of the crank. But for a 500hm application? does it really matter that much? If he goes external he can reuse his balancer and flex plat that he has, saving a couple hundred bucks.

[bbcmudtruck]

Internally balanced is much better than having weights slinging around on the outside of your motor! No matter the hp rating or even intended use, it's better. Now will the motor be fine externally balanced? Absolutely if done correctly! It will also save him a little bit of money, IF he already has a good balancer and flex plate. Just my opinion that if he's starting from scratch to do the little things to help the engine be more efficient and live longer as he goes. Again, just my opinion.

[Roll'nSlo]

I have a complete engine plus accessories. But I'm not going to use the accessories. I'm going to internally balance it. I'm replacing all of the rotating assembly.

[Roll'nSlo]

If your going to put it on the bottle, Make sure you plan for that. If its just a 100 shot you will be fine with most parts but anymore and you will want a solid piston/rings and the cam will be a little different as well.]

If I do add the bottle, it'll only be 100 shot.

[Kyle@FTP]

Originally Posted by Roll'nSlo

If I do add the bottle, it'll only be 100 shot.

Just buy quality parts and retard the timing 4* and you are good to go.