S10 Swap how to

[Black93GT]

Happy to see you back! I'm one of many who truly appreciate you efforts with this swap thread. It's been an enormous help for my project!!

What blows my mind is how effortlessly you seem to make the motor fit. It took me quite a few attempts and a few different mount revisions to get my motor and transmission (and headers DOH!) to fit with out hacking up the cab.

It looks like a rainy few days so I'll finally update my build thread.

[hicks_st]

We are in the process of following your build steps on swapping onto S10 frame. Everything has been great but we are stumped on your motor mounts. We are using the 4.3 with the standard trans. What mounts are you using on the motor side when you built the engine mounts? If we use the same brackets that are already on the motor with your engine mount design it will be a solid mount with no rubber isolation.

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by hicks_st

We are in the process of following your build steps on swapping onto S10 frame. Everything has been great but we are stumped on your motor mounts. We are using the 4.3 with the standard trans. What mounts are you using on the motor side when you built the engine mounts? If we use the same brackets that are already on the motor with your engine mount design it will be a solid mount with no rubber isolation.

I buy 71 Camaro motor mounts then I build the lower pedestals by myself. I detailed that in this thread

[joedoh]

I am not skymangs but I used speedway universal mount stands and chevelle 350 mounts. I could not figure how to use the stock s10 4.3 clamshell mounts without using the stock frame side mount. we did it that way on the 47 (moved the stock frame side mount back)



but I used the speedway universal weld in mounts and 350 70s chevelle motor mounts (4.99 any parts store) on the 49






I moved the motor 6" on the 47 and had to use an electric fan. I moved the motor 7.5 inches on the 49 to leave room for the clutch fan.

[hicks_st]

Originally Posted by joedoh

I am not skymangs but I used speedway universal mount stands and chevelle 350 mounts. I could not figure how to use the stock s10 4.3 clamshell mounts without using the stock frame side mount. we did it that way on the 47 (moved the stock frame side mount back)



but I used the speedway universal weld in mounts and 350 70s chevelle motor mounts (4.99 any parts store) on the 49






I moved the motor 6" on the 47 and had to use an electric fan. I moved the motor 7.5 inches on the 49 to leave room for the clutch fan.

I figured out my problem. I have two s10s one complete and the one I'm using for this build. When I got the s10 the guy was just supposed to bring me the rolling chassis. He ended up bringing a running truck minus interior, bed, hood. Etc. it fired right up. I saw it was a 6 cylinder and just figured I'd use it since it was running and just doing a cheap build. Well after further investigation it is actually the 2.8 v6. I was not aware that was an option. Rookie mistake.

[HUSSEY]

Nor am I Skymangs...but this is how I did mine.

S10 conversion mounts bolted to the chassis. The passenger side will bolt on directly. The drivers side chassis will require re-drilling the two lower holes to bolt the mount on. You can use a 1990 S10 2.8L motor mount as a guide, you'll see what I mean when you have the parts in front of you.

1990 S10 2.8L Motor Mounts bolted to the engine, Anchor brand 2436. You can also use a 1990 Corvette Motor Mount, Achor brand 2713








Anchor 2436, 1990 S10 2.8L

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by HUSSEY

Nor am I Skymangs...but this is how I did mine.

S10 conversion mounts bolted to the chassis. The passenger side will bolt on directly. The drivers side chassis will require re-drilling the two lower holes to bolt the mount on. You can use a 1990 S10 2.8L motor mount as a guide, you'll see what I mean when you have the parts in front of you.

1990 S10 2.8L Motor Mounts bolted to the engine, Anchor brand 2436. You can also use a 1990 Corvette Motor Mount, Achor brand 2713








Anchor 2436, 1990 S10 2.8L

I just use 1990 Camaro V8 mount's, they seem to be the cheapest.

[joedoh]

hey hussey that works great for a v8 because the v8 needs to move forward on the s10 chassis when used in an s10 bodied truck so its a net 7 or 8 inch rear move with them reversed, but with a 4.3 its only 4.5" rear move and that isnt enough for the fan clutch. thats why we made our own plates for the 47, we made them just like the swap plates, for a net 6 inch rearward move, which still wasnt enough for the clutch fan.

works great for a v8 though.

[HUSSEY]

Originally Posted by joedoh

...but with a 4.3...

Ahh, I missed that part. Yep, to get a fan clutch in there you'd have to move it way back. Mine barely had room for an electric fan and I put my valve covers within an inch from the firewall.

But, in my defense of missing the 4.3 part, who would in their right mind put a V6 in their hot rod, I could see a straight-6 but a V6???

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by HUSSEY

Ahh, I missed that part. Yep, to get a fan clutch in there you'd have to move it way back. Mine barely had room for an electric fan and I put my valve covers within an inch from the firewall.

But, in my defense of missing the 4.3 part, who would in their right mind put a V6 in their hot rod, I could see a straight-6 but a V6???

both of mine have been 4.3 vortec. the LU3 is 195 HP and 260 tq. a tbi 350 is 200 HP and 300 tq. these trucks are so light, just about anything makes it a tire melter. even the 2.8 V6

and I must not be a compensater, I had a 65 fullsize with a 2.2

[HUSSEY]

Originally Posted by joedoh

both of mine have been 4.3 vortec. the LU3 is 195 HP and 260 tq. a tbi 350 is 200 HP and 300 tq. these trucks are so light, just about anything makes it a tire melter. even the 2.8 V6

and I must not be a compensater, I had a 65 fullsize with a 2.2

I recall the 65 with a 2.2L in it, very cool truck, project Slow Ride it was called wasn't it?

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by HUSSEY

I recall the 65 with a 2.2L in it, very cool truck, project Slow Ride it was called wasn't it?

yep, it was originally spelled s10 ride without a "w" and no one got it. "essten ride? whatinthehells that?" so I changed it from the play on words to the phonetic pronunciation, adding the w and changing the 10 to an LO. people were polarized by it, loved it or hated it. some of the coolest guys just asked questions and let me ask questions about their trucks. some guys were less impressed, and most of their trucks were still at home with big plans. I didnt care though, I didnt even put in a radio, just cruised it around for hours at a time. one more for the books.

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by HUSSEY

Ahh, I missed that part. Yep, to get a fan clutch in there you'd have to move it way back. Mine barely had room for an electric fan and I put my valve covers within an inch from the firewall.

But, in my defense of missing the 4.3 part, who would in their right mind put a V6 in their hot rod, I could see a straight-6 but a V6???

you cannot run a fan clutch. The fan won't clear the lower hose, I tried it. Did not work.

[T-P Auto]

Chris;;

Very glad to hear n see you up n around.

Just take is slow n easy;

Hope this years Holidays are better for you.

Glad to hear your getting a shop going again.

Happy Holidays;

T-P Auto
Tim

[Black93GT]

I made the same basic mounts as Skymangs. Some 3/8 plate and some black pipe.

I pulled the 327 out of my Camaro and used it as is. The mount pads are just like the ones Joedoh posted.... although 51 years older.

[skymangs]

Yeah, I'm up and answering any questions anyone may have. If they would just follow my build instructions exactly they would be fine. I even included pictures to make it easier.

[mxer666]

Great thread, it has helped a lot on my project. Now, my problem: driveshaft / pinion angle. I shortened an extended cab frame 7" to correct wheelbase. I have a 6" static drop, with an Explorer rear end, and went to a 1 piece driveshaft. I have a serious drive train vibration, and am on my second custom made driveshaft.
With all the builds you do, to you have a go-to solution? Thank you

[HUSSEY]

Originally Posted by mxer666

Great thread, it has helped a lot on my project. Now, my problem: driveshaft / pinion angle. I shortened an extended cab frame 7" to correct wheelbase. I have a 6" static drop, with an Explorer rear end, and went to a 1 piece driveshaft. I have a serious drive train vibration, and am on my second custom made driveshaft.
With all the builds you do, to you have a go-to solution? Thank you

Have you measured your drive line angles. The trans should be pointing down and the rear end yoke up. Their angles should be equal but opposite. Since you have an Explorer rear end I would put an angle gauge on the face of the yoke, measure, then on the face of the tail housing. I used a Wixley digital angle gauge to get my set-up but I think any decent angle gauge would work:

http://www.rockler.com/wixey-digital...Ap4RoC7-Dw_wcB

Harbor Freight sells one similar but is actually more expensive:

http://www.harborfreight.com/digital...not%20provided

I've heard guys say just adding a few washers to their transmission mount to correct the angle took away their drive line vibration.

[DeanTX]

If you have an iPhone download the Tremec Toolbox. It has a very accurate angle finder and will walk you through the three angles that matter- tranny, driveshaft and pinion. It will compare the three and let you know which one(s) needs correcting.

[mxer666]

Thank you both. I've learned a lot about driveline angles in the last couple days. I have it pretty much corrected. Because of the drop, the rear end pinion was above the trans tailshaft. Raised the trans 1", shimmed the pinion down

[skymangs]

[QUOTE=mxer666;7785317]Thank you both. I've learned a lot about driveline angles in the last couple days. I have it pretty much corrected. Because of the drop, the rear end pinion was above the trans tailshaft. Raised the trans 1", shimmed the pinion down[/QUOTE
glad that you figured it out. I always just put the rear end back on the springs, guess I just have a knack for setting up the driveline. LOL
up

[skymangs]

Here is some pics of my engine pedistals.

[skymangs]

The Sorry, this is the pic I meant to post.

[Lookin4the1]

sort of off topic to the current conversation in this thread, but google search and the search button here has been insufficient for what I need. I'm using a stock 95 s10 brack booster/pedal setup on my 49 gmc. a 6.0lqr with 4l80e and need to wire up the pressure switch or tcc correctly. the brake booster has 4 or 5 wires going into a plug.. does anyone know what each of these wires go to?

[HUSSEY]

Originally Posted by Lookin4the1

sort of off topic to the current conversation in this thread, but google search and the search button here has been insufficient for what I need. I'm using a stock 95 s10 brack booster/pedal setup on my 49 gmc. a 6.0lqr with 4l80e and need to wire up the pressure switch or tcc correctly. the brake booster has 4 or 5 wires going into a plug.. does anyone know what each of these wires go to?

A wiring diagram can be your friend. You could grab an ohm meter and start checking to see what the terminals do when you press the plunger in and out

This is how I went about mine and how my switch hooked up.

The front pair is for the brake light switch. When the plunger is opened (pedal depressed) the switch is closed and brake lights light up.

The rear pair terminals are for the TCC and Cruise Control. They are normally closed. When the pedal is depressed these circuits open cutting the power to the TCC and Cruise control.

I relocated my switch so it couldn't be seen below the dash. See Post 177 here:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=664837&page=8


Referenced from: http://www.maliburacing.com/forum/vi...p?f=34&t=72495