front suspension crossmember - replace the stock nuts and bolts?

[hpcgmc]

Just rebuilt my stock front suspension, including removing the crossmember. I'm about to bolt the crossmember back in and some of the nuts look like those squashed nuts (torque lock nuts?). I'm trying to do a decent amatuer restoration. Should I replace the nuts and bolts? Just the lock nuts?

Thanks for the input.

[kwmech]

If you are that far into a resto, I would replace them and not worry

[Ridgeclimber]

Replace the bolts with grade eight bolts and hardened washers. Do not use nylock nuts.

[ksbrktracer]

In actuality ..... I would not be afraid to reuse the factory swedged nuts and original bolts if they are in good shape. After cleaning them up of course. I dont think in my opinion that you can buy a bolt as good as what the factory used. Just my .02 cents worth

[68blazer]

it depends what is more important to you; time or money? if you want to clean up every bolt (which i agree are good quality parts) then it will take time and you don't have to go anywhere (spend gas money) or on the flip side if you value your time but got the money travel to your local store and buy all new. new grade 8 will hlod up I.M.O.

my .02 take it or leave it

[dmartin1]

I did grade 8 bolts and nuts/washers. From a really cheap local place but after seeing the prices from the home depot and Lowes and other stores etc I'd definitely hit those factory suckers on a wire wheel and clean them up nicely.bolts can get pricey quick!

[davepl]

I think you'd be fine with either Grade8 hardware or good clean factory pieces, which would be my preference. Grade5 or worn factory pieces would be bad.

I don't -think- the metal lock nuts are one-time use, as rocker arms get re-tightened often.

As for me I re-used all the factory bolts for the suspension. I'll fool around with Lowe's Grade 5 stuff and Totally Stainless stuff in non-safety applications, but if it's holding my wheels on I'd prefer factory, ARP, or if I have to, retail Grade 8.

[hpcgmc]

Ended up buying new bolts from a local "fastener" shop. They gave me a discount as a reward for not going to a big box store. Total for 20 grade 8 nuts, bolts, lock washers was about $15.00, so well worth it to me. I'll probably replace all the inner fender and hinge bolts, if the price stays reasonable.

Next question - the original crossmember bolts did not have washers between the bolt head and the frame, just the lock washers at the nuts. It seems weird not using a washer at the bolt head. Who uses the washers (and why) and who just uses the bolts?

Thanks!

[davepl]

My cross member was riveted in. Is that only on the 20s and 30s or are we talking about a different mounting point I wonder?