Tips on adjusting 3spd column linkage

[SCOTI]

I swapped 3spd columns on my 68 beater this weekend but I'm still struggling w/the linkage. Does anyone have any tips (other than getting an aftermarket floor shifter) for adjusting it correctly & efficiently?

[VTKidder]

I just loosened the linkage on the column and set it where I wanted neutral to be, then tightened up the rods. I'd like to take the play out of mine as well, so I'll stay tuned. Never torn into what I have so I can't really help.

[SCOTI]

That's how I did it before on my other truck but it doesn't seem to be working w/this one.

When I set it up this way, the column lever over-travels for the 1st & 3rd positions compared to where it was before. Actually it's difficult to differentiate whether your in 1st or 3rd.

I jacked w/it until I was getting pissed & then just stepped away before any damage started. If I get home tonight before dark, I'll try again.

[Tx Firefighter]

SCOTI, try searching on this one. There was a guy on here awhile back that explained how to do it. Apparently, there's a notch that you can put a little nail in to to hold everything in the right place, then you tighten everything and remove the nail.

[CPNE]

Originally posted by Tx Firefighter
SCOTI, try searching on this one. There was a guy on here awhile back that explained how to do it. Apparently, there's a notch that you can put a little nail in to to hold everything in the right place, then you tighten everything and remove the nail.

Good memory TX! Here is the link

[Tx Firefighter]

Here is what board member Yukon Jack has to say about it:

"To adjust the three speed you will need some sort of alignment rod, I used a nail cut to the right length. I also used a long board to keep the clutch pedal pressed in while doing the adjustments. The linkage adjustment is made under the hood on the steering column shaft. What you want to do is loosen up the nuts that tighten the guides on the shifting linkage. Get the tranny into neutral, which will have the two guides in line with each other. The guides have a small hole in them and there is also a raised notch on top of the steering column. Lay the nail on the notch and then move the guides until the nail slides through each guide. Then what I did was moved the linkage rods up and down to see how they cycle through the gears and then get back into neutral. Then I tightened the nuts so the guide is secure. Remove the alignment rod, ie the nail, and then cycle the tranny with the shift column in the cab. I had to do a little fine tuning to get the linkage right but it took all of 10 minutes once I figured out what I was doing."

[SCOTI]

Ok, sounds simple enough. I figured since I have the original column in the garage I could 'practice' what I needed to do w/o having to lean over the truck.

There are 2 'plates' that the shift arms/linkage attach to & some sort of 'pressure plate' between them that requires force to switch between 1st/rev. & 2nd/3rd.

The top plate (closest to the firewall when mounted in the truck) has the hole for the 'nail/guide pin'. The second plate (the pressure plate) also has the hole, the third plate, closest to the steering box, does not have a hole. I got out the wire brush & cleaned it good w/some carb cleaner & there isn't a hole.

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[SCOTI]

ttt

I could just align the linkage (which would be the same thing as putting a pin to keep them aligned) but so far that hasn't worked & I'm starting to get frustrated..........

I'll keep f**kin' with it for the rest of the week & if I don't get it I'll put a damn O.D. in my 74 & use the t350 in the 68!!!!

[Perchjerker]

Tell me what the problem with the linkage is in the first place. On my truck, when I shift from first to second gear, I have to pull the shifter towards me to keep it from locking up in first. Other than that, I haven't had any other problems.

[SCOTI]

Original prob was it popping out of 3rd @ 65+mph, then it started popping out of 2nd, then finally it hung in 3rd w/the column in the 'neutral' position.

I removed the linkage from the trans & it positively shifts back & forth between each gear so I don't feel it's the trans. I also checked the output shaft for excessive endplay & it's ok. So I feel it's the column & related linkage. I picked up another column from a fellow board member that was in good working order when he removed it from his truck (he gave me the column so he wasn't just trying to make a buck & he's a trustworthy guy).

I removed my column (marking the set points on the linkage arms), then swapped the new column in, hooked up the linkage & it's the same. If the linkage isn't hooked to the column, I can shift the arms & move the linkage down @ the trans. Once the arms are connected to the column, it doesn't work.

I've tried rotating the linkage, moving it higher/lower on the shift arms, swapping the arms around ( I was moving everything around so much, I thought possibly I switched them w/o realizing), but nothing seems to work. I can get frustrated easily sometimes so after a couple of hrs I walked away (before I destroyed it) & I'll try again today.

[Tx Firefighter]

Scoti, two things. First, mine had similar problems when the bushings were wore out at the trans linkage arms. New bushings cured the problem.

Also, I just removed my great shifting 3 speed awhile back, and I can get you pictures of the linkage arms and how they are clocked on the trans. I just left them in place when I took the trans out.

[shuttermutt]

My Chevelle originally had a 3-on-the-tree setup. The linkage would bind something fierce forcing me to chock the wheel, open the hood, and pop the linkage by hand. That is, until my old man taught me the "trick" to shifting a Chevy 3-speed...

When making the 1st to 2nd gear shift, do it slow and "dip" the shifter towards 3rd gear before moving up into 2nd. When downshifting into 1st, push the shifter up towards reverse before dropping it in 1st gear. Once I got into that habit, I rarely locked up the linkage. Now, I can't drive a 3-speed with the shifter on the column without doing that little move.

It reminds me of the 1 ton that I drove for a year or so. The old 4-speed was goofy. You had to pull the clutch pedal back with the toe of your left foot to prevent burning out the throwout bearing. I still catch myself doing it from time-to-time when I drive a manual transmission.

[Perchjerker]

Man! Check your motor or transmission mounts.

[SCOTI]

Perchjerker, your thinking like me now.......... that was the first thing I thought of. I thought the mount was loose & binding the linkage because when you let off the gas the column shift arm would shoot up towards rev/2nd & when you got on the gas it would shoot down towards 1st/3rd. It wouldn't actually come out of gear, just move back & forth according to speeding up or slowing down.

I checked the mount & everything feels solid. So I thought that possibly the arms had come loose on the side of the trans but they were tight as well.

The bushings are worn completely out & was on my list of things to replace after I got everything swapped, but I feel I should @ least be able to somewhat move between gears & currently it's just not possible.

Shuttermutt, I always shift to 2nd/3rd before going into 1st to syncronize the trans & not grind the gears since these old trannys aren't syncronized. Good tip though.

TxFirefighter.... some comparison pics would be good. Hell, does anyone have pics of their 3spd linkage (that works properly) still hooked up that I can compare with?

Thanks for the input guys..... it helps regain my perspective.

[Perchjerker]

Wish I had some pics, but I don't have a digital camera now. Sorry I couldn't help further, but one thing else you might need to check is what is called the shift tube. I think they can become worn after a while also. If I can get my friend's camera, I'll try to post a pic.