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#1 |
RAT1968 '68 Cab/'71 Parts
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Coarsegold, CA
Posts: 2,375
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Electric Fuel Pump Choice
I'm running my stock tank in the cab and an electric fuel pump set up along the frame rail, into a filter,
then into an adjustable fuel pressure regulator... and then into the carb. Seems I made a quick choice on the fuel pump. The one I initially installed works.... But it only pumps 4.5 or 5.5 psi.... Yeah, it works. But I'd like to crank it up a bit. I'm looking for one that pumps about 12 or 15 psi (or so) so I can throttle it back with the regulator when I find the "sweet spot". Any options? Or, "stay away froms"?
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M17 Coarsegold, CA RAT's shiny now. But always a rat. |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Ocean Springs, MS
Posts: 1,746
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Re: Electric Fuel Pump Choice
I think carbs only need 2-4 psi, adding more pressure won't make it run any better as long as the float bowl stays full.
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Gary 1971 Chevrolet C/10 1951 GMC 100 1977 GMC C15 1955 Chevrolet 3100 |
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#3 | |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Tucson
Posts: 2,183
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Re: Electric Fuel Pump Choice
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Covington, GA
Posts: 386
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Re: Electric Fuel Pump Choice
This. The whole point of the fuel pressure is to get the fuel through the needle and seat area, unless you're doing a blow through supercharger or turbo install.
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Matt Cramer 1972 Chevy C10 - 4.8 swap, long bed, and maybe one dent free body panel somewhere - SOLD 4.8 LS build thread |
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#5 | |
RAT1968 '68 Cab/'71 Parts
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Coarsegold, CA
Posts: 2,375
|
Re: Electric Fuel Pump Choice
Quote:
Street DeMon 625 stats call for between 5 and 6 PSI. I just wanted to get a piump that allows me to "throttle back" the fuel pressure using the fuel pressure regulator so I can fine tune the flow. I seem to getting lean "pops" after being into the secondaries for a few seconds ( ![]() that symptom. Most of which, I've checked out. Just wanted to make sure the bowl wasn't empty. And, since I get some readings in the four psi range (with a clear shot...new fuel filter, blown out carb filters, timing adjustments, air leak checks, etc.), I'm just interested in eliminating this factor. It's no big deal. The old 350 runs strong....with a little pop once in a while...like I said...But I don't like to leave "almost well enough" alone. ![]()
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M17 Coarsegold, CA RAT's shiny now. But always a rat. |
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#6 | |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Tucson
Posts: 2,183
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Re: Electric Fuel Pump Choice
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Bowser
Posts: 13,777
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Re: Electric Fuel Pump Choice
[QUOTE
It's no big deal. The old 350 runs strong....with a little pop once in a while...like I said...But I don't like to leave "almost well enough" alone. ![]() If you're getting little 'pops' what's your timing curve like? |
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#8 | ||
RAT1968 '68 Cab/'71 Parts
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Coarsegold, CA
Posts: 2,375
|
Re: Electric Fuel Pump Choice
Quote:
Quote:
The popping...and very slight at that, was when coming *on* to the secondaries, mostly when the trans kicked down and a couple of seconds after the higher RPM had been achieved. Because of not having a proper calibration on the timing mark, and TDC being elusive because I don't feel really EXACT about TDC, even usinbg all the methods, I have adjusted the timing for optimum performance...meaning no advance symptoms, and no lean symptoms...rather than call it from certain degrees BDC. When the heads come off, I'll mark it properly. Also, as far as the curve goes, I just installed a new module in the HEI dizzy and didn't play with springs. I've got some playing around there...And with the idle mixtures on the DeMon. Plus, I need to get in there and look pretty diligently for some air leaks...just in case there are some. I suspect not. But who really knows. Also, it seems that popping now...since I've been driving some more...may have been symptomatic of a cold motor. Jumping on it before it's fully up to operating temp. Side note: Vintage Air. Just got off the phone with Mark at CVintage Air. I was having strange (to me) problems with the readings on high and low side being okay...yet, when the RPM were over about 1,000, the temp in the cab started north...With ambient in the cab temps at 88-100, all the way up to 77 degrees if I let it get that far. Back on idle, the temp would start to drop and settle at about 44 degrees until I was driving again at road-ride RPMs. Mark asked for the readings at the a/c gauges. Then, when I got back to him, suggested taking the heater core out of the equation, as there is a possibility that if even slight amounts of hot water got into the cooling side of the evaporator, the system would get mad ....and not cool down. I messed with the VA hot water "gate" on the heater hose. It moved. I have the GenII system that has cables. It moved. Seems I had the cable fubared to the point that just a very small amount of hot water was getting through to the heater core. With Mark's sourcing of the problem, I'm now down to a system output of a consistent 38 degrees. Vintage air service after the sale. I'm a fan.
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M17 Coarsegold, CA RAT's shiny now. But always a rat. |
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