Break in engine oil

[engineer_gregh]

I'm currently using Zddp Maxx Zddp Oil Additive with Valvoline 10w-40 in my 402 after the rebuild and break in period. I know a lot of folks are using Shell Rotella but I'm not comfortable with 15W-40 for startups on cold mornings. Could you not use the break in oil be at each oil change versus buying the additives? The cost is about the same. Can some of you more experienced engine builders chime in here with your opinions?

[1911a1]

I'm far from an expert but I plan on using Valvoline 10w-30 racing oil in my new motor I used it to break in my engine with no other additive except for the lube that came with the Comp Cam. It claims to have zink in it.
My friend who is very knowledgeable about such things uses it in his flat tappet cam cars.

[NC_John]

I run 4 qts standard Dino oil with 1 qt Joe Gibbs driven break-in oil every oil change. All the engine builders I've talked to (NASCAR/Rolex series builders) say it's the way to go for a street engine.

[J kippin]

VR1 is good for zinc but also look up Mobil 1 it also has a high zinc content. I would not recommend a synthetic though until the rings are broken in

[GMCGrim]

I know Royal Purple has a break-in oil though I have not used it it must not be fully synthetic like their regular oils otherwise the rings would not seat.

[engineer_gregh]

I guess my question, is there a problem with running break in oil at every oil change? Comp cams break in oil 10W 30 is $60 for 12 quarts and Comp Cams 10W 30 muscle car and street rod oil is $92 for 12 quarts. If I compare the break in oil price to 5 quarts of Valvoline 10W 30 or 40 and ZDDP additive its pretty much the same price. I have a higher comfort level with the Comp Cams oil versus the additive I've been buying. Can't help myself, I'm a numbers guy and I don't like wasting money on oil that's $10 a quart or higher if I can get the same results and protection from just continuing with the break in oil.

[trac209]

I really question all this zinc oil concerns with flat tapped cams. I've been driving older vehicles with flat tappet cams for years and have never once had a cam go bad or used an oil that had increased zinc content. Once a cam is broken in I see no need to add zinc or use a zinc added oil. I think it's a gimmic to be honest.

[engineer_gregh]

You may very well have a point trac209. Here are a couple of articles on the topic.

http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2...older-engines/
http://www.valvoline.com/faqs/motor-oil/racing-oil/
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...h/viewall.html

[davepl]

Originally Posted by J kippin

VR1 is good for zinc but also look up Mobil 1 it also has a high zinc content. I would not recommend a synthetic though until the rings are broken in

I think that's an urban legend these days, unless your machine shop still has 1970 hones in a Sunnen CK-10 or something.

I'm not a machinist, but from talking to them and various engine builders I get the sense that cylinder wall finish has evolved dramatically. After all, many factory cars have come with synthetic for 20+ years now.

I would also question whether Mobil 1 has much zinc in it. There are requirements for street oils that they're not exempt from. But I don't know for sure.

Your best bet is probably the Joe Gibbs stuff for initial breakin then any decent motor oil. Something else will happen long before you wear your rings out unless you're planning on touring the country in it.

[CST10]

I use rotella t 15W-40 oils. That's was comp cams recommended to me when I called them on the tech service line.

[davepl]

Originally Posted by CST10

I use rotella t 15W-40 oils. That's was comp cams recommended to me when I called them on the tech service line.

I do as well. I run the diesel version of it because I believe (but cannot prove) it has more detergent. There's also a synthetic version of it, which is what I use.

It used to have more zinc in it, but now that diesel trucks have cats they probably do not have it in the current formula, so what comp cams believed to be true a couple of years ago may no longer be so.

[dfrank]

We use brad penn breakin oil in all the motors we build and run brad penn 10w40 afterwards. It has the right ammounts of zinc in it.

[davepl]

Not being facetious here, genuine question:

a) How much zinc is the "right amount"?
b) Do Brad Penn or Joe Gibbs or Hemmings or any of them list zinc content in ppm or similar?

[CST10]

I work for shell and know people at the oil side R&D department. They tell me the rotella t diesel oils have the required ppm of zinc and phosphates required for flat tappet cams and lifters and have not changed their formula any lower on those levels.

[motorcritter]

I've always run Rotella in my Benz diesels, they probably leak more than they use, even at 300K (and I'm too lazy to want to change the pan gaskets). I'm going to run Brad Penn in the TPI when it's ready to run, probably Mobil1 after it's run in- roller cam isn't so finicky, but- start right, run right.

[dfrank]

Originally Posted by davepl

Not being facetious here, genuine question:

a) How much zinc is the "right amount"?
b) Do Brad Penn or Joe Gibbs or Hemmings or any of them list zinc content in ppm or similar?

Right here. Straight from brad penn's website. It list the zinc and phosphorus in ppm.http://www.penngrade1.com/Zinc.aspx