Restoring Rusty

[MikeB]

The below info is from a guy who was involved with Vortec head design and testing. As you can see, a single angle valve job is used only on the HD version of the 906 head for use in 1-ton trucks.

The #906 casting head was available in two versions. One has an Inconel exhaust seat with a single angle grind, and the other has the conventional 3-angle grind on the exhausts as per the #062. The #906 with Inconel seat does not intrude into the exhaust port. It was used primarily on the HD and 1-ton truck applications where sustained towing of heavy loads & weight up inclines could cause eventual damage to a standard induction-hardened exhaust seat from excessive heat.

The only difference between the #062 and #906 Vortec head is in the exhaust seat of the HD/1-ton truck #906 version, as described above. The #062 has a 3-angle grind on a standard induction-hardened seat, as does the non-HD #906 head. The 062 does flow slightly better on the exhaust side at low lifts but the advantage over a 906 is very slight. They both utilize back-cut exhaust valves. They both have 3-angle grind seats on the intakes with back-cut intake valves. Both heads make the same power in stock form.

Unless Super Chevy mag is now into 1-ton trucks, I'm not sure why they said what they did. ???

[Jake Wade]

The pitting on the sealing face of the exhaust valves is typically what you see from higher mileage use. You will have some leakage if not addressed.

I would send the heads out to have the seats recut and the valves ground(valve job).

You should not need to buy any valves unless you have one with pits too deep to clean up, stem wear under spec, or bent/out of round.

You also need to mic the guide boss OD to see what size seals you need. The ones you showed a picture of may work as they are designed to fit a size range.

[Gregski]

so feeling a bit overwhelmed with all the cylinder head science and it pouring rain outside I decided to price out some "Complete" brand new Vortec cylinder heads by Chevrolet Performance part number 12558060 to reassure myself I did the right thing by buying used heads, so here we go, follow along if you like this will be fun research.

Summit has the best price: $316.99 each

but looking at the pictures these heads sure had a lot of parts missing wouldn't you say?

Damper Spring Included: No
Rocker Arms Included: No
Rocker Arm Nuts Included: No
Guideplates Included: No

so we gots to add $24.99 for the Rocker Arm Kit GM part number 10089648 times 8 per head so $199.92 extra

so our new actually assembled and really complete heads now cost $516.91 and I stole mine for 1/10th the price, though they did come with their own set of [ahem] HEADACHES! ha ha

man I sure the good ol' days where we said what we meant and we meant what we say, non of this partially "complete" nonsense, or WiFi ready (I'm looking at you Panasonic)

[chevybuldr]

Originally Posted by Gregski

so feeling a bit overwhelmed with all the cylinder head science and it pouring rain outside I decided to price out some "Complete" brand new Vortec cylinder heads by Chevrolet Performance part number 12558060 to reassure myself I did the right thing by buying used heads, so here we go, follow along if you like this will be fun research.

Summit has the best price: $316.99 each

but looking at the pictures these heads sure had a lot of parts missing wouldn't you say?

Damper Spring Included: No
Rocker Arms Included: No
Rocker Arm Nuts Included: No
Guideplates Included: No

so we gots to add $24.99 for the Rocker Arm Kit GM part number 10089648 times 8 per head so $199.92 extra

so our new actually assembled and really complete heads now cost $516.91 and I stole mine for 1/10th the price, though they did come with their own set of [ahem] HEADACHES! ha ha

man I sure the good ol' days where we said what we meant and we meant what we say, non of this partially "complete" nonsense, or WiFi ready (I'm looking at you Panasonic)

Rocker arm kit should come with all 3 pieces that you need, rocker arm, rocker ball and the nut.

You can not run a guide plate on those heads unless you have them machined for screw-in studs and guide plates. Then you would have to run a non-self aligning rocker arm (early version).

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by Gregski

Feeling a bit overwhelmed with all the cylinder head science and it pouring rain outside I decided to price out some "Complete" brand new Vortec cylinder heads by Chevrolet Performance part number 12558060 to reassure myself I did the right thing by buying used heads, so here we go, follow along if you like this will be fun research.

Summit has the best price: $316.99 each

but looking at the pictures these heads sure had a lot of parts missing wouldn't you say?

Damper Spring Included: No
Rocker Arms Included: No
Rocker Arm Nuts Included: No
Guideplates Included: No

• You don't need guide plates, only self-aligning rocker arms which you already have, assuming the valve stem tip contact surfaces aren't too worn.
  
• Stock Vortec springs do not require dampers. Springs are good to a approx .480" lift + a safety margin, and are good to 5500 RPM or so. They are the same springs used on the RamJet 350.
  
• The nuts that came with your heads are probably better than aftermarket nuts which don't grip the studs as tightly.

Have you considered conventional heads for use with the intake manifold and valve covers you already have?

[hatzie]

They're complete heads for an engine buildup. No machine work necessary.
They assume you'll be completing them with shaft mount roller rockers. They're around $240. No need for guide plates with those.

[Jake Wade]

A $200 (on average) trip to the machine shop for cleaning, crack test, resurfacing, and valve job will have your heads like new, assuming they are not cracked.

[chevybuldr]

Originally Posted by Jake Wade

A $200 (on average) trip to the machine shop for cleaning, crack test, resurfacing, and valve job will have your heads like new, assuming they are not cracked.

I would have to agree with you on this.

[rich weyand]

The valves and seats look fine to me compared to a 110,000 mile engine I rebuilt. Those valves and seats needed grinding, and I just happened to know a guy who worked at a place with the correct machinery who was willing to trade favors.

Just lap the valves and put it all back together. You'll be fine.

Lapping would be the first thing I would try anyway. You'll be able to tell looking at them after lapping what kind of seal you've got.

[Gregski]

The valve seals showed up today GM part number 10241743 got 'em for a song $12.99 on eBay and FREE shipping - good things come in small packages I guess

[Gregski]

completely disassembled the second head today, the Driver Side

[Gregski]

lets check out these studs a bit closer shall we

[Gregski]

ok lets check out the combustion chambers, look closely

[Gregski]

Noooooooooooooooooooooooo

[chevybuldr]

Originally Posted by Gregski

Noooooooooooooooooooooooo

Thats a bummer. Main reason why you need a machine shop to magna flux them for cracks like I said earlier.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by chevybuldr

Thats a bummer. Main reason why you need a machine shop to magna flux them for cracks like I said earlier.

I hear you, I just really wanted to go through this at least once on my own, successfully that is, so this don't count

I did call a number of shops in Northern Califirnia and a basic head job runs us $250, thats hot tank, magnaflux, and put back your old parts plus the seals I provide myself, I guaranty you seldom they put your old parts back in

[chevybuldr]

Originally Posted by Gregski

I hear you, I just really wanted to go through this at least once on my own, successfully that is, so this don't count

I did call a number of shops in Northern Califirnia and a basic head job runs us $250, thats hot tank, magnaflux, and put back your old parts plus the seals I provide myself, I guaranty you seldom they put your old parts back in

A good quality shop will not rip you off on parts. They make more money with you returning as a happy customer. Also they have to show you your parts that are no good when you ask. There are a lot of crooks out there, but there are also a lot of good quality shops out there. Call around and ask how much it costs to check out a set of heads. It would be my guess though that the exhaust valves will need to be replaced.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by chevybuldr

A good quality shop will not rip you off on parts. They make more money with you returning as a happy customer. Also they have to show you your parts that are no good when you ask. There are a lot of crooks out there, but there are also a lot of good quality shops out there. Call around and ask how much it costs to check out a set of heads. It would be my guess though that the exhaust valves will need to be replaced.

I did, $150 to check them out, so if they are bad and I don't want to move forward its $150 down the toilet.

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by Gregski

Noooooooooooooooooooooooo

Not uncommon. I suspect lots of 97-2002 1/2 ton trucks on the road have hairline cracks like yours, but my machinist tells me the vast majority of them don't have symptoms. That said, I wouldn't put a dime in them, nor would he.

[54earl]

Mother trucker

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by 54earl

Mother trucker

LOL, last chamber I cleaned too, we was almost out of the woods

[enaberif]

#1 issue with vortec heads.. cracks like that and you never know till you bought them.

you now need to replace that cylinder head or take it back for a exchange.

[chevybuldr]

In our shop the heads get disassembled and degreased. Valves are cleaned and checked for wear. Good valves are refaced. the heads are magnufluxed for cracks and seats and guides are checked. Springs are checked for pressure. Then you get an estimate.

[rusty76]

Crap

[y5mgisi]

Dang it!