Brake pedal push rod modification question.

[spookylynx]

So I looked through almost all of the brake conversion threads but I still need input.

I converted my 65 c10 to power brake disc/drum using capt fabs bracket and a booster & maser from a 71c10. everything lines up nicely...

My question is, how are people modifying the push rod that connects the brake pedal to the push rod on the booster? The 71 booster rod has a nice 3/8"eye on it, I made a coupler and welded it to the original one from the 65. It works fine, however there is flex in the rod since it's just a single bolt, creating a pivot point.

What have you done? How much flex movement in the rod is ok?

[Captainfab]

You do not want to have that pivot point on the booster pushrod. Here are some pics to give you an idea what to do. Scroll down to posts #342 and #343.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...533641&page=14

[spookylynx]

got it. Thanks Capt. I knew the flex was wrong just need to double check.

So, now I have a SUPER novice question, but I'd rather ask, than screw something up. When I slide that inner push rod out of the booster for welding... does it just slide cleanly in and out? or is something going to go out of alignment? I can't imagine its a good idea to weld on it while its still in the booster.....

OH..by the way, both brake and steering brackets worked perfectly. Thanks again!

[Captainfab]

The pushrod is retained inside the booster and I have never removed one. I just weld a little and let it cool some, to keep the heat down. Basically just make several good hot tacks, giving some time in between.

[spookylynx]

Copy that. thanks again for the guidance.

[donthekawguy]

Did you drill a hole in the brake pedal arm? Yu have to drill a hole 1 inch lower in the arm.

[spookylynx]

No i did not. I am just using the stock hole. What is the reasoning for the longer throw? will the brakes be too touchy with the stock hole?

[donthekawguy]

I can't remember why maybe something to do with the angle of the dangle or something like that. lol All I know is that everyone says to do it and I did and everything works great. Give it a shot first.

[earl84]

The new hole is to change the pedal ratio from what was correct leverage for manual brakes, to the correct ratio for power brakes. Don't recall the ratios off the top of my head.

[spookylynx]

makes sense, with power assist you don't need as forceful of a pedal push.

[donthekawguy]

Let us know how it turns out

[AcampoDave]

Originally Posted by earl84

The new hole is to change the pedal ratio from what was correct leverage for manual brakes, to the correct ratio for power brakes. Don't recall the ratios off the top of my head.

So if a truck were converted from power to manual brakes would one need to drill a new hole 1 inch higher?

[spookylynx]

makes sense to me, as long as it's a factory hole on the correct pedal for the truck, not one put in at a later date.

[earl84]

Can't say with 100% authority, AcampoDave, but from the reading I have done, yes, you should have a new hole to get the pedal feel and leverage correct. The bigger question is, why would you go to manual brakes??

[AcampoDave]

I built the truck in question on an old school hot rod theme. Stick shift from a car, maual disc brakes, All my optional goodies were junk when I got the thing so I went against the tide and installed all base model stuff. Radio delete, thrift air heater, etc...engine is a warmed up 283, so keeping it simple keeps it light which allows it to still be quick enough to be fun. I have since added power steering and a tilt/tele from an old Cadillac, but I never miss the booster.