01-07-2015, 05:27 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 349
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'70 C10 with issues
Picked this up the other night from a friend of a friend.
Completely original drivetrain wise. Runs beautifully, sounds great. Unloaded it off the trailer and was driving it over to my shop when it just died. Noticed under the hood that the fusibile link junction on the passenger side fender was not getting any power. I have no idea what happened because it started fine all night and up to 5 mins prior to it turning off. No sight of the fuse and other end of the link. Anyway. Pulled it back to the house and noticed someone had installed rather poorly a low volume electric fuel pump and hooked it up the the fusibile link junction on the passenger side fender. Also, not sure how that's possible because it would have been constant hot. But it wasn't prior to this incident. Pulled off the block off plate, and noticed the pushrod was gone. So I had to overnight a mechanical fuel pump and pushrod for it. I'm still baffled why someone would swap in a likely more expensive electric pump on a 2b 307. Could the cam lobe be bad? I guess I'll find out tomorrow. Just thought I would see if anyone has ever seen this setup before. |
01-07-2015, 05:30 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 349
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Re: '70 C10 with issues
Truck has the infamous brake light issues as well. Tail light fuse blows when the headlights are on. I haven't had it on the lift yet, but I can already see several spots in the rear harness that are bad.
Truck will be getting a 3/5 drop and my buddy is selling me his 20" TBSS wheels (he's going to 22's on his TBSS). Last edited by w00dst0ck; 01-07-2015 at 05:36 PM. |
01-07-2015, 07:17 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Albuquerque NM
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Re: '70 C10 with issues
i like the door art.
running an electric fuel pump is common but the right way is to run a realy and hook it up to the unfused ign. on the fuse box
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1967custom |
01-07-2015, 09:18 PM | #4 |
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Location: Austin, Texas
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Re: '70 C10 with issues
That's my plan if going back manual doesn't work for whatever reason.
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01-08-2015, 12:38 AM | #5 |
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Kirkland, WA
Posts: 343
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Re: '70 C10 with issues
Some people do stupid things! Remember to make sure to thread a 3/8" bolt in the front of the block to hold the fuel rod pump up when installing the mechanical pump. Also, I would clean the contacts in the headlight switch by pulling the rod out and spraying electrical contact cleaner inside of the switch. I have had to clean switch external contacts too with emery cloth then chase the harness to the back and unplug the connector at rear to help isolate the short. Good luck, G.
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01-08-2015, 12:51 AM | #6 |
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 349
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Re: '70 C10 with issues
I put in a new 20A fuse, they had a 14A fuse in the tail light slot.
So far so good, but only have 1 brake light, not sure if the tail lights are working. But, I've seen several bad spots in the rear wiring harness where wires are completely bare. I will probably just replace the switch while I'm at it ~$13. Then i'll clean the old one for a backup. |
01-08-2015, 08:01 AM | #7 |
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: Northern Calif.
Posts: 3,770
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Re: '70 C10 with issues
That's a nice looking truck. Headlight visors are cool looking.
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