Register or Log In To remove these advertisements. |
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
01-30-2015, 04:12 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: IDaho
Posts: 89
|
Important Rust/Screw Question..
I've noticed on some of the screws that I have removed, such as the kick-panel and drip-rail screws, there is a hard amber-colored rubber/wax coating involved.
Being very rust-paranoid, I'd like to ask just what this coating is, where do get it, and how is it properly applied. I assume it is some kind of coating to help keep the threading of the socket from corrosion? A lot of these screws go straight through the body metal. It would suck to go through a lot of hard work restoring something, only to have rust start growing right from a corner, hole or socket because it wasn't fastened or sealed right. What's the proper procedure for drilling/screwing?? Thank you. Sincerely, IdahoMan |
02-03-2015, 12:23 AM | #2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: IDaho
Posts: 89
|
Re: Important Rust/Screw Question..
Anyone?
|
02-03-2015, 01:18 AM | #3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: North Idaho
Posts: 335
|
Re: Important Rust/Screw Question..
Hey, pard - I don't have a definitive answer to your question, but I figure us Idaho guys got to stick together so here's what I think may be the case:
Check out this old GM video on YouTube that describes how the 1979 Suburbans were built: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SgDK6LVyUmI#t=130 I set the link to the correct part of the video where they show a GM line worker spraying what the narrator says is an "aluminum wax preservative" on the inside of a door panel. Although the color isn't exactly the same as what is shown in your picture, I still think that is the stuff that comes off of certain interior screws. I've noticed it myself many times as well, and until I saw this video I was never sure of the cause. I've never added any additional goop when replacing such screws, but maybe I should have. I look forward to hearing others chime in on this.
__________________
1980 K10 Suburban Silverado, original 350 w/Qjet swapped to 406sb, TH350C swapped to TH400/205 |
02-03-2015, 11:59 AM | #4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Maine
Posts: 2,375
|
Re: Important Rust/Screw Question..
That was my guess, some kind of rust proofing inside the body either aftermarket or factory. I don't recall it in my trucks but other GM cars I have worked on had a reddish brown coating inside some body panels. You would have to be creative to reapply it in those areas that are no longer accessible.
__________________
76 Chevy K20 76 GMC K15 77 Chevy C10 77 Chevy K10 |
02-03-2015, 04:19 PM | #5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: IDaho
Posts: 89
|
Re: Important Rust/Screw Question..
When I removed my drip-rails, the screw's tips had been dipped in some kind of amber colored rubber/wax.
|
02-03-2015, 04:44 PM | #6 | ||
Registered User
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Motor City
Posts: 9,226
|
Re: Important Rust/Screw Question..
Quote:
As you might know I started at the Flint Truck plant (the only plant building Suburbans at that time) in June of 1979. Quote:
K
__________________
Chevrolet Flint Assembly 1979-1986 GM Full Size Truck Engineering 1986 - 2019 Intro from an Old Assembly Guy: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=342926 My Pontiac story: http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=560524 Chevelle intro: http://www.superchevy.com/features/s...hevy-chevelle/ |
||
02-03-2015, 05:43 PM | #7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: IDaho
Posts: 89
|
Re: Important Rust/Screw Question..
|
02-13-2015, 07:30 PM | #8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: IDaho
Posts: 89
|
Re: Important Rust/Screw Question..
BUMP for answers.
Rust and cancer are two things you never want to deal with. |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|