Newbie question

[gcates]

Hello all. This is my very first post and about my very first classic truck. I just bought a '65 C10 with a 3 on the tree. My question is in regards to the gear shift/turn signal/steering column. I'm finding that my blinkers don't work correctly, which I know is a common problem. It seemed as I was driving that I had to hold the switch down all the way, particularly to the left to have the light blink inside the cab. So I did this not knowing that I wasn't blinking in the back, only the front. That's the smaller issue. Whenever I it hold down that way, I can see the gear shift move and it ends up moving so much that I can't change gears without playing with it, which as you can imagine is tough to do during a turn. When I finally get it back in gear I can see the turn switch move back. They are pulling on one another. It's gotten to be where I don't even use my turn signal because I don't really know if it's blinking back there or not, and it keeps me from having to get switched up during a turn. I want to try and work on this truck my self if I can, it's part of the fun for me. But I don't have a lot of experience. I am a quick learner however. Any help would be appreciated!! Oh, and here's a quick pic.

[vince1]

Nice truck!

I think your column needs a rebuild as things are coming loose in there. Any radial or axial play in the steering wheel at all? That would indicated you need to look at the bearings. Lower bearings quite often come apart. If the shaft is still working good I think the steering wheel at least has to come off and probably the shifter collar to see what is going on. But its been awhile since I owned one with a three on the tree so others might have better advice. I bought new signal switch and harness at Classic Industries, Huntington Beach Ca. if you need that.

Power steering and collapsible column are upgrades you may want to consider.

[gcates]

Thanks Vince. The steering wheel does have a little play in it. It isn't original steering wheel, which I plan on replacing very soon. I guess when I go in to do that, it would be a good time to consider checking every thing there. Is there a guide to that type of thing somewhere on this site?

[cv65]

Originally Posted by gcates

Thanks Vince. The steering wheel does have a little play in it. It isn't original steering wheel, which I plan on replacing very soon. I guess when I go in to do that, it would be a good time to consider checking every thing there. Is there a guide to that type of thing somewhere on this site?

might help http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=215307

[Chevy Fleetside]

if you need a new switch, don't fool around with the china ones. Get one from American Autowire. They cost a good penny but very well made. The china ones fail a lot. You might just have loose screws in your column. Just pay attention where the parts go as you remove them. The columns are pretty simple.

[gcates]

Thanks to all for the help. Is a new signal switch something I should do regardless once I get in there working?

[vince1]

I'd check everything else first because there will likely be another part or two you need. Old signal switches even if they still work could soon fail in the cancelling mechanism because that plastic doesn't stay pliable for ever, but your call. When you take it apart pay attention to the routing of the horn wire. I had it wrong and the horn kept coming on because the wire was getting pinched to ground.

[gcates]

The horn doesn't work as is, but I'll see what I can figure out. Think I'll go ahead and start with the switch and see what else may need to be done. I appreciate all the good info.

Second issue, it just started leaking coolant today. Only when it's running which makes me think I have a hose issue. It's directly below where the hose runs down the side of the radiator. I can't figure out where that hose runs or how to get to it.

[vince1]

It's just finding its level. Because there is no surge tank to cycle the fluid to and fro, it is dumping the excess overboard. Leave the level down a couple inches from the filler cap and see if the problem goes away.

[gcates]

A little back story on the coolant. I was driving down the interstate when I noticed my overheating lamp come on. I got home and let the engine cool and checked the radiator. Bone dry....I went to get some coolant and filled it up, maybe too high, and cranked it to move it to the drive way to let it sit so I could check for leaks. With the engine running it leaks, off it doesnt . Vince you make me feel better because I've read everything from replace the cap to blown head gasket. I hope you are right.

[vince1]

Oops, if the radiator ran dry you have a problem other than normal overflow. Now I think you need someone that knows what they are doing to trouble shoot it.

[gcates]

Gonna go buy a new radiator cap today. Started it and ran it a little this morning, checked the oil and didn't notice anything unusual mixed in with the oil. Gonna try and take some out cause I do think I put too much in, but I have a call in to my mechanic and I'm gonna take it to him in the morning if that doesn't work. So much for working on it myself. But it's frustrating to have just bought it and gotten it back from the painter, and not be able to drive it.

[markeb01]

First off you have a beautiful truck, and welcome to the forum. On the steering column issues, it sound like the upper area needs a rebuild, but another thing to consider is if the steering wheel is attached facing straight ahead. If it was installed on the column not facing upright, that can also cause the problem of having to hold the turn lever down as the cancelling cam will be out of position if the wheel is crooked.

Overfilling the radiator won't hurt anything, it just pukes out the excess. If you can't find a leak anywhere and the oil looks okay, pull the spark plugs and look at them. The engine could be "drinking" the coolant due to a blown head gasket, and most likely the plugs will show the evidence.

[vince1]

I think you mentioned that someone suggested maybe a head gasket leak in which case a new cap won't help. There is a way of pressure testing your cooling system and you might find the leak that way. You could also pull the plugs to see what they look like and do a compression check to possibly isolate it further. Worse case scenario would be that there was not enough antifreeze concentration in it for the cold winter over there and something cracked. I've had a couple of 4.3s that leaked into the rear left cylinder and I ran one to almost 180k miles by adding a jar of Bars leak once or twice a year. One time the hub came off the water pump and the fan went through the rad. I was surprised to see it clean and not plugged up at all. There may be better block weld products out there today. I am not suggesting that you try it. Some people won't use the stuff under any circumstances and will advise strongly against its use..