"Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis

[HUSSEY]

Originally Posted by *Kenny

Project is looking really good. I like the jig you have set up. I may have to consider doing that blazer front brake swap.

Thanks. I think you could do the swap fairly cheap if you could located a two wheel drive Blazer. I used dropped Belltech spindles which were a bit pricey. I think it will be worth it though, when you put the single and dual piston calipers next to one another it's like a day and night difference.

[b.sharp]

Originally Posted by HUSSEY

Thanks. I think you could do the swap fairly cheap if you could located a two wheel drive Blazer. I used dropped Belltech spindles which were a bit pricey. I think it will be worth it though, when you put the single and dual piston calipers next to one another it's like a day and night difference.

Why would a 2wd blazer make it better? Aren't the spindles the same from 4wd to 2wd? I have the break kit but didn't grab the spindles because I wanted drop spindles.

Progress is looking good, man..

[HUSSEY]

Originally Posted by b.sharp

Why would a 2wd blazer make it better? Aren't the spindles the same from 4wd to 2wd? I have the break kit but didn't grab the spindles because I wanted drop spindles.

Progress is looking good, man..

As I've been told, the spindles are not interchangeable and different between 2wd and 4wd to accept the appropriate 2wd vs. 4wd bearing. This is where I originally got the idea...

http://www.ad-engineering.com/S10PartsInterchanges.html

[Cautrell05]

Looks good. I am totally borrowing that cab lift idea. Looks much easier than other methods.

Nick

[HUSSEY]

Since I’ve got my cab position figured out I’ve moved on to building my cab mounts. There is nothing new or innovative going on here. I’m basically using the ideas I’ve seen in many other build threads, I just tweaked the dimensions to fit my build. The front and rear mounts are constructed from 11 GA 4x4 in. square tubing. The top plate is 3/16 in. thick.

I’m using S10 body bushings but replaced the factory rubber ones with Energy Suspension black polyurethane bushings, P/N 3-4130G.

For the front cab mounts here is what I came up with.
1) The cab mounts were constructed to place the bottom of the cab floor board support 4 in. from the top of the frame.
2) The front cab mounts use the original front cab mount holes of the AD cab.
3) The front cab mounts are mounted 2 in. forward from the front of the oval hole in the frame. This positions my wheels just forward of center. I plan on dropping the front a couple more inches. Because of the front suspension geometry, dropping the front suspension should bring the front wheels back a little bit.

For the rear cab mounts here is what I came up with.
1) The rear cab mounts were made to level the cab with the chassis.
2) The rear cab mounts use one of the original holes the AD shackle cab mounts bolted to.
3) I also ran an 11 GA 2x1 in. rectangular tubing between the two rear cab mounts. The tubing is drilled to bolt to the floor at three additional locations. I thought this would add some additional support.
4) The center to center distance between the front and rear cab mounts is 36-1/4 in.

Before fully welding anything, I tacked the mounts together then tacked them to the frame. I then mounted the cab and all the front sheet metal to double check my fit. Then, I tore everything down, cut the mounts off, welded them up, welded them to the frame, and then re-installed the cab and front sheet metal.





A harbor freight holes saw set worked well enough. I found drilling at the lowest speed possible results in faster cutting.





The front cab mounts are mounted 2 in. forward of the oval hole in the frame.













I ended up notching the front of the front cab mouts to provide a little more clearance. Makes getting the cab on and off easier too.









The center to center distance between the front and rear cab mounts is 36-1/4 in.

[HUSSEY]

Here are some shots of the cab mounts with the cab bolted in place.





From the top of the frame to the bottom of the cab floor support measures 4 in.







I ran an 11 GA 2x1 rectangular tubing between the two rear cab mounts and bolted to the bottom of the floor.





Measurement for reference. The cab mount height was set to level the cab to the frame.







The front cab mounts bolt to the original front cab mount holes.



The rear cab mounts bolt to one of the original shackle bolt holes. The 2x1 cross bar uses three 3/8 bolts to bolt it to the bottom of the floor.

[HUSSEY]

…the cab and front clip on the frame.

[Advanced Design]

Nice work, looks really good.

[DeanTX]

Nice looking welds too.

[oldman3]

Doing some good work, and truck is looking great...Jim

[IWanna49]

Great step by step! Thanks for sharing!

[ADchevys]

Looking good, I like the way you did your rear cab mount.

[Cautrell05]

Can you share some more about your cab lifting fixture? What did you made it from?

[HUSSEY]

Thanks for all the compliments. As for the lifting fixture, it was built from 2x4s and 3 in. screws. Here's some additional pics of it. Nothing fancy but it worked well.

[Cautrell05]

Thanks for the pictures. That should be easy enough to build.

[Tikal48]

Great looking work! Your cab mounts really came out looking nice. Nice looking welds. You must still be able to see. LOL

I am impressed by your cab. It really looks solid! Cab corners and rear of cab looks in great shape.

Have you put any thought into where you are going to put the battery? The frame on mine goes right where the battery box used to be. So I sealed off the battery access hole. I'm sure that I will mount it somewhere in the engine compartment, but I want to keep that as clean looking as possible.

[HUSSEY]

Tikal48, I'm with you, I thought about putting it under the hood on the firewall but I want to minimize whats under the hood for a cleaner look. The other option is to put it somewhere under the bed, but with the way my exhaust is routed I don't really have a good spot. I think I'm going to put a sealed battery it in a plastic battery box behind the seat on the passengers side.

[Tikal48]

I was thinking of putting it behind the seat myself, but started reading some of the warnings on different forums. Now, I'm just undecided. I guess that I will leave that battle for another day.

Keep up the good work!

[HUSSEY]

Hmm...now you got me to thinking. After some reading, sealed batteries really aren't "sealed".

NHRA Section 8.1 Rules say: http://www.nhra.com/UserFiles/file/G...egulations.pdf

All batteries must be securely mounted; must be of sufficient
capacity to start vehicle at any time. Batteries may not be relocated
into the driver or passenger compartments. Rear firewall of .024-
inch steel or .032-inch aluminum (including package tray) required
when battery is relocated in trunk. In lieu of rear firewall, battery
may be located in a sealed .024-inch steel, .032-inch aluminum, or
NHRA-accepted poly box. If sealed box is used in lieu of rear
firewall, box may not be used to secure battery and must be vented
outside of body. Relocated battery(s) must be fastened to frame or
frame structure with a minimum of two 3/8-inch-diameter bolts.
OEM located batteries without complete OEM hold-down hardware
must be secured to OEM battery box/tray using the same 3/8-inchdiameter
bolt hold-down method described in previous sentence.
(“J” hooks prohibited or must have open end welded shut.) Metal
battery hold-down straps mandatory. Strapping tape prohibited. A
maximum of two automobile batteries, or 150 pounds combined
maximum weight (unless otherwise specified in Class
Requirements), is permitted. Maximums may vary according to
Class Requirements.

So given the in lieu of a rear firewall...I'm thinking something like this may work:
http://www.amazon.com/NOCO-HM424-Sea.../dp/B006VU5W92

Which is just like Jegs sells which is identified as NHRA approved:
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performan...10230/10002/-1

[HUSSEY]

I Drew up a set of plans for the cab mounts I came up with.





Downloadable PDFs which are a bit clearer are available at the following links:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B29...ew?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B29...ew?usp=sharing

[28TudorAZ]

Is there any difference in height for a 1952? I used these plans for mine and now I am 2nd guessing myself. I plan on trying the cab on the frame tomorrow.

Originally Posted by HUSSEY

I Drew up a set of plans for the cab mounts I came up with.





Downloadable PDFs which are a bit clearer are available at the following links:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B29...ew?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B29...ew?usp=sharing

[HUSSEY]

Before I got the cab back on I made up my transmission cross member. I picked up a cross member kit from Summit. The cross member is by Competition Engineering, P/N C3601. It has a 3.5 in. drop and is fairly stout made from 1-5/8 in. DOM tubing with a wall thickness of 0.134 in. I also picked up a new transmission mount, Energy Suspension, P/N 3-1108G.

I had to trim the thickness of the transmission mount a little to get it to fit into the saddle of the transmission cross member. I believe the saddle of the cross member is supposed to be welded flipped from what I have it but to get the right drop, I had to weld it on the way I have it.

I used some 3/16 in. angle to make the make the frame mounting ends of the cross member. I used my hole saw set to drill holes in the angle then passed the cross member tubing through it and welded it up. I drilled a couple holes on each end and bolted it to the frame. Because the frame isn’t flat where the cross member mounts, I also cut some spacer plates to fill the void. I’m somewhat confident on where my motor is position at but if I have to, I can remove the cross member and slot the mounting holes.

[joedoh]

thats a sweet solution for the crossmember!

[Advanced Design]

Nice work and nice welds. I like the curvature of the side mounts...a nice detail.

[HUSSEY]

Thanks, the cross-member is basically a $65 piece of bent tubing but it made the fabrication easy.