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04-19-2015, 01:04 AM | #1 |
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Location: West Virginia
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Back on the fuel line: more questions.
So I am back working on the truck. (Replacing the entire fuel line). Today I tried my Craftsman double flare tool and it works BUT doesn't make a "bubble flare."
I really want to flare my fuel line ends but do I need a bubble flare? Can I get it to join to rubber hose with just a single flare? Today's bending.... The ridges from the clamping tool.....are those OK? |
04-19-2015, 01:35 AM | #2 |
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Modesto, CA
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Re: Back on the fuel line: more questions.
I didn't use a bubble flare on mine and it's been going strong without a drip. I just did a single flare and tightened the clamps just after the flare.
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04-19-2015, 06:38 AM | #3 |
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Location: alvin, texas
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Re: Back on the fuel line: more questions.
some flare tools will make a bubble if you only use the first stage of the double flare, my eastwood does but they aint cheap
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1967 C10 lwb two tone, 305 & rat fink style floor shifted 700r4, 20" steelies 2004 2500HD utility bed aka Brutus |
04-19-2015, 01:35 PM | #4 |
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Re: Back on the fuel line: more questions.
Well if a single flare will work, then I'm OK. I wanted a bubble flare, thinking it would be easier to get the hose to go over a bubble as opposed to a single but if it will, then I'll do it.
I am using Poly Armor tubing, which is hard to flare it seems as it is so hard, so my kit may not bubble at all. I have a Craftsman 45 degree double flare kit. I saw the video on the Eastwood turret set and I really liked it but for the money, I don't know if I'd use it again. Well...I might use it on my Pontiac to make new lines but that's a different story. I'll try and see if I can get some tubing to slide over my test flare today and if it goes on easily enough, I'll go on. |
04-19-2015, 06:48 PM | #5 |
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Re: Back on the fuel line: more questions.
I used the same poly armor stuff. It's hard to work with, but the hose will slip right over a single flare with no trouble. I've done it now 4 times, and haven't had a leak on any of the points. I personally use 2 clamps a piece. I tighten one down after the flare, ensure that there's no leaks with the one, then add an another about a half inch apart to satisfy my worry.
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04-19-2015, 06:58 PM | #6 |
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Location: West Virginia
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Re: Back on the fuel line: more questions.
My hoses aren't slipping over very easily at all! I just tried it. I am so annoyed I am ready to forgo flaring the pieces all together!
Someone else posted that a basic double flare kit could do a bubble if I use the other (flat) side of the clamp so I am going to give that a shot first. I'd like to be flared on this thing if I could. |
04-19-2015, 07:32 PM | #7 |
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Location: Carlsbad, California
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Re: Back on the fuel line: more questions.
A double flare tool's first stage will work well. You can also use a tube beading tool like this one from Summit.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ea...FcVgfgodfrYAOQ The clamping block from flaring tools do cause a little trauma to the tube just below the flare. I have not seen any problems from that. |
04-19-2015, 10:43 PM | #8 |
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Location: CEDAR HILL, TX
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Re: Back on the fuel line: more questions.
I used the same Craftsman one for the first time this past Saturday to make a fuel line and was able to get it to bubble flare (for the first step of a double flare) stainless steel tubing (the kind you run for instrumentation lines in power and industrial applications). It helped that I had it mounted in a vise.
Did you chamfer the edge of the tubing 45 degrees using a flat file all the way around so that it tapers to the inside edge? See drawing. That made the world of difference when it came to working with a hard material. Don't use a tubing cutter. It work hardens the metal and bows it in to a bottle neck and may make it harder to bubble. I used a bandsaw or a hacksaw will work fine because you want the cut to be as perpendicular to the length of the tubing as possible. I installed the tubing into the flaring tool with the edge about 1 mm from being flush with the surface, and then took the flat file to smooth it out. The file won't hurt the flaring tool. I then used the tang of the file to ream out the inside of the tubing, then chamfered the edge.
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1968 Chevrolet Fleetside C-10 1971 Chevrolet Fleetside C-10 Last edited by rx78nt1alex; 04-19-2015 at 10:49 PM. |
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