I need to cut the centers from my wheels...

[ekgguy]

I am in the process of having a custom set of rear wheels made for my '68 LWB.

Here is what I am starting with. 15 x 5.5 plain steel wheels



I want to remove the center sections of the wheels that I have and have them welded into these with custom spacing.



So I did a little work with the wire wheel and flap disks today and found these



and on the inside... this



The spots in the last two pictures that are outlined in red directly coincide with each other, so I am guessing that they are the welds that hold the wheel together.

My question is, does anyone know if I have these drilled or machined out, will that work for removing the wheel centers? And, does this appear to be something that could be done in a home workshop of does it need to be professionally done?

Once I get the centers out, I will have them professionally welded in, I want to make sure they are safe.

[SS Tim]

Everything needs to be done by a wheel shop!
The old wheel is chucked in a lathe and the outer rim is turned off down to the size for a press fit into the new hoop. Then they are pressed, aligned and welded.

[ekgguy]

That would be the best case scenario.

Anyone know of a wheel shop in the Houston area that does this????? I have checked with everyone that I know, talked to every "wheel shop" that I can find, searched the internet and come up with nothing.

I am sure that there is a machine shop that will take care of the re-welding for me and do it in close enough tolerances that it will balance and be safe.

[SS Tim]

It takes a specialized shop. The last set I was involved with took four months and six or seven tries to get four correct wheels.

Try this
https://www.google.com/#q=wheel+widening

As examples
http://www.weldcraftwheels.com/index-1.html

www.stocktonwheel.com

[Tx Firefighter]

Those are just spotwelds. No reason you can't remove them yourself. Since you're trashing the outer hoops, you can use a grinder to dig down into them from the outside. When you get close, use a mallet to whack the center disc periodically. When you get the spot welds ground out sufficiently, you'll be able to dislodge the centers from the hoops. Then take them, along with your new hoops, to the wheel shop.

Personally, I have done them myself before. I got them fitted up and bolted to the truck then mounted a dial indicator and spun the wheel as I tack welded until they were firm and then removed and stitch welded.

[ekgguy]

Originally Posted by SS Tim

It takes a specialized shop. The last set I was involved with took four months and six or seven tries to get four correct wheels.

Try this
https://www.google.com/#q=wheel+widening

As examples
http://www.weldcraftwheels.com/index-1.html

www.stocktonwheel.com

Thanks Tim. I emailed James with weldcraft wheels back on November 4th of last year and never received a return email from him. They were one of the only ones I found that would provide this service.

[ihssalky]

I have done this many times on wheels for other applications. It is just as simple as it seems. Grind out spot welds, prep center to go in new wheel and set center in new wheel where backspacing is correct. Just need to set wheel in a lathe and check run out with a dial indicator before finishing welding. If you cant find anyone in texas to do it, let me know. We can do it here in pa.

[ekgguy]

Originally Posted by ihssalky

I have done this many times on wheels for other applications. It is just as simple as it seems. Grind out spot welds, prep center to go in new wheel and set center in new wheel where backspacing is correct. Just need to set wheel in a lathe and check run out with a dial indicator before finishing welding. If you cant find anyone in texas to do it, let me know. We can do it here in pa.

That looked like the case and that is what I wanted to know. I am pretty sure that I can find someone to finish weld everything, I just wanted to make sure about the spot welds.

I am trying not to ship the wheels to get them done. Thanks for the offer, I will keep it in mind.

[74baggedbug]

Try Aztec machine shop off gulf bank.. I know they cut wheels and redrill wheels.. They can help you out

[ekgguy]

Originally Posted by 74baggedbug

Try Aztec machine shop off gulf bank.. I know they cut wheels and redrill wheels.. They can help you out

Thanks. I will try them on Monday.

[ekgguy]

I ground down the spot welds until I saw a black line all the way around the area I was grinding. Did that for all four spots, beat it up some with a mallet and nothing.

So I took the long way and cut both outer hoops off the center. A couple hours of cutting and one bad-a$$ grinding wheel and this is what I ended up with.



As you can see the center section of the wheel is still attached. I made one cut in between where I was grinding out the spot welds and was able to peel the entire ring off the center section, leaving me with this:



A couple of passes with the flap disc and a little primer and there is one center section ready to get welded in.

[70SBC10BOB]

Using a brake lathe will help turn off the old rims and center the new ones. Just tack weld until you are sure about the run out. (In all directions. up, down, in & out)

Or, find somebody local that does dirt track type racing. We used to build a lot of wheels with weird offset for track cars and custom street rides. Just using a little "Hill Billy" engineering. There may be a local wheel builder in your back yard.

It is worth the work to get the wheels exactly where you want them!!

Good luck.

[NONHOG]

some interesting links on this thread. Specially the Ford one. Nice DIY article.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ighlight=wheel

[ekgguy]

I got the second one apart this weekend. This one was a lot easier than the first one.





I did the same thing, grinding the spot welds out, but this time took a little more care about where and how deep I went. Then, when I saw the black lines appear I stopped.

Then I stuck it in the freezer over night, took it out the next morning and used a BFH (bigger than last time) and a little heat and it popped right out. Much easier.

[outlaw 3454]

i've seen those wheels before!!! lol

[ekgguy]

Originally Posted by outlaw 3454

i've seen those wheels before!!! lol

hmmmmm outlaw3454.... that username sounds familiar. I think that I bought a set of wheels from him one time.

[ekgguy]

I didn't realize that it has been a year since the last post on this thread. Time sure flies when you are having fun.

Anyway, finally getting around to doing what I originally wanted.

These came in the mail the other day. Got a good deal on EBAY believe it or not...



Then these showed up from Speedway Motors today...



A little togetherness....



And... A, "this is what I am aiming for" look, different offset of course...

[swamp rat]

Post pic's when their done! and mounted.

[Keith Seymore]

Joining late, but one more vote for "do it at home":

Originally Posted by Keith Seymore

My Dad and I have widened a number of steel wheels at home, most notably converting 15x7 truck sport full face wheels (Motorwheel) to 15x8; and converting 15x8 Corvette rally wheels to 15x10 or 15x12 configurations.

We widen the wheels by preserving the front half (thereby keeping the dimensional integrity between the wheel spider and the front face of the rim) and by cutting the back portion off the wheel.

A new back portion, from a different wheel and with an additional 2", would then be fixtured to the front face/spider, using this spacer as a checking fixture, for a 10" wheel. To create a 12" wheel the front face would be cut and replaced after that rear portion was secured.


This is the spacer, used as a fixture for controlling the overall width, made from a piece of black pipe.





The length of the spacer corresponds to the final wheel width. These are placed in three or four locations around the wheel and are secured with small screws in the end.


A small plate was affixed in four locations, allowing for minute adjustments of the donor portion. Once the radial and lateral runout are within spec then the two halves can be welded together.



Here is a finished sample, a 10" Corvette rally with the front spacing preserved and the 2" added to the rear.

[ekgguy]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Post pic's when their done! and mounted.

Absolutely!!!!!

Because...

[ekgguy]

Those look great Keith, I think that I am going to try and do it myself, well myself and my dad as he was a welder for 30 years.

I bought completely new hoops and am just inserting the 6 lug 3 nub centers in so they work with my truck. The new hoops are the width that I am looking for.

If I get to doing this and don't feel comfortable with the strength or I think there will be safety issues, then I will find someone to do it for me, just haven't had a lot of luck without someone wanting to charge me an arm, leg and left ***.