Anyone seen a C10 on newer wheels?

[SeeTen]

Anyone got a pic of a C10 on newer Silverado/Tahoe-type alloys? I'm looking for some 16" 6-lug steelies, (to get the great 245/70R16 combo) but I'm having a tough time. I AM however, finding plenty of cheap alloys; that look pretty nice, but I'm not sure what they would look like on the '69.

The years I'm talking about are around 2010 and newer. They're going for pretty cheap in my area ($100-$200 or so) and look pretty cool.

Anyone have any idea? Any pictures to share? I'd appreciate it!

[GCncsuHD]

Keep in mind the offset of the later model wheels will have them sitting far inside the fenders, and possibly rubbing the wheel tubs. I don't have any pictures saved, but they can look very good on there, I have seen a few. You may want to run 1.25" or so spacers to get them sitting in the wheel well correctly.

[SeeTen]

Thanks for the heads up. I'm thinking about hitting the junkyard this weekend for some steelies.

With 1.25" spacers, I don't see much thread left on the wheel stud. (But then again, I don't really know much about the wheel/rim world, so it may just be a dumb question). Does the 1.25" spacer refer to the distance pushed away from the drum/rotor, or something else?

Thanks for the advice!

BTW, the impetus for doing this is the fact I'm currently running on 215/70R15s, (the truck was lowered w/ heat) and now that I have stock ride height, I look pretty silly.

[SeeTen]

Just googled "Wheel spacers" and found that there are some that have a new set of wheel studs ON the spacer itself. The only spacers was familiar with were the simple 1/4"-1/2" spacer-only deals (had no idea they made spacers w/ new wheel studs attached).

Lets say I'm at the junkyard - would an inner-measurement of my current rim depth, center hub diameter and wheel nut distance be enough to get the correct rims w/out having to worry about spacing?

I'm thinking about early 90-97 Chevy 1500 steelies at the very least.

[GCncsuHD]

Yea, the spacers with the wheel studs in the spacer are what you want. I don't trust the slip on spacers much at all any thicker than 1/4". I have ran the bolt on style in 1.5", 2", and 2.5" on 3/4 and 1 ton trucks towing heavy loads with no issues, just make sure to torque them down properly, drive for a day or so, remove the wheel and recheck the torque on the spacer and you will be good.

And yes the 1.25" is the distance pushed away from the hub...Stock wheels of that era used around a 3.5-3.75" backspacing if I remember right, the newer stuff uses anywhere from 5-6" of backspacing depending on the exact application. By using a 1.25" spacer on a wheel with 5" backspacing you effectively make a 3.75" backspaced wheel. Of course you will have to get the wheels you want then measure to get the right size spacer.

Also, the late model 88+ 6 lug stuff has a smaller hub diameter that might not fit over your hubs, but since the backspacing is off too, using the spacers will eliminate the hub interference.

[SeeTen]

Great. I appreciate the info. It will definitely help with the upcoming hunt...

I'll let you know how I do!

[SeeTen]

Still looking for some 2005-2012 newer rims on a C10 though! Any pics would be appreciated!

Just like these:
http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/pts/3274689226.html

[Smoothride]

I have seen one with the 20's ltz wheels

[GCncsuHD]

Honestly there probably aren't that many out there due to the hub bore and backspacing issues. A quick search on here only got one truck, and it uses 1.5" spacers like I mentioned that fixes both the hub bore and the backspacing issue.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...00&postcount=2

[eldogg]

I have a set of 08 steelies on my brother's 65, but they are just on it to roll it around the shop. I'll post some pics.

[SeeTen]

Well, the guy is only about 30 min from where I live, so I may just lug the truck out there and do a mock up and see what they look like sitting next to my longbed.

I like the idea of being a pioneering-trendsetter , but I sure wish there were some photos. Would make this a whole lot easier!

[GCncsuHD]

If you drive it out there to mock them up, you'll be able to remove your wheel and put one of them on, it will fit on the lugs, it just won't seat all the way onto the hub as is.

[SeeTen]

Any manufacturers you would recommend for spacers? Cheap and strong preferably!

[GCncsuHD]

I have bought a couple sets now from user tireshopsupplies on ebay with great results.

These are the 2.5" ones that are on the back of my dually right now
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4...-21-44_526.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4...-53-53_972.jpg

[SeeTen]

Do all 6 lug wheels fit all 6 lug axles regardless of year? It was my understanding that the wheel stud spacing would be a problem, in addition to hub diameter. Have I been misled?

[GCncsuHD]

Originally Posted by SeeTen

Do all 6 lug wheels fit all 6 lug axles regardless of year? It was my understanding that the wheel stud spacing would be a problem, in addition to hub diameter. Have I been misled?

All GM "fullsize" 6 lugs use the same pattern, but the hub diameter did get smaller in 1988. Smaller GM SUV 6 lugs (except Hummer H3 and Colorado/Canyon) use a smaller 6 lug pattern as well as Dodge Durango/Dakota use a smaller pattern.

[Spnknu]

I have thought about a similar application only different if that makes any sense. Not to thread jack or anything....but

Im looking into running positive offset wheels on a bagged suspension setup. Could you theoretically have the control arm lengthen to compensate for the positive offset? Or am I not seeing the big picture here and totally out of cognitive though.

For the rear I would have to fab longer axle tubes and axles to compensate for the offset, no?

Sorry to thread jack but no reason starting another thread...haha, but I've done some research on the subject at hand. Most people who use late model wheels are running spacers and having the hub milled out to 3 1/4" I believe for the hub to clear the open on the wheel, most if not all late model wheels are hub centric.

Good luck

[special-K]

I think the newest wheels I've seen used were from maybe '04 or so. None of the large diameter ones. I think many people don't like the idea of running spacers or adapters. I know I will only run run wheels made to bolt up directly.

I have a question. When did people start putting "trucks on wheels" and not "wheels on trucks"?
Sorry,it just strikes me as funny and I've been wanting to ask that. I guess it shows where the emphasis is. Just a tip here,it's a whole lot easier to put wheels on trucks than trucks on wheels,so I'm sticking with that!

[GCncsuHD]

Originally Posted by Spnknu

I have thought about a similar application only different if that makes any sense. Not to thread jack or anything....but

Im looking into running positive offset wheels on a bagged suspension setup. Could you theoretically have the control arm lengthen to compensate for the positive offset? Or am I not seeing the big picture here and totally out of cognitive though.

For the rear I would have to fab longer axle tubes and axles to compensate for the offset, no?

Sorry to thread jack but no reason starting another thread...haha, but I've done some research on the subject at hand. Most people who use late model wheels are running spacers and having the hub milled out to 3 1/4" I believe for the hub to clear the open on the wheel, most if not all late model wheels are hub centric.

Good luck

Theoretically it would work, just a little more trouble than may be necessary, the rear would be easiest just to swap in a wider late model axle, you could lengthen the shafts and tubes, but it would be more difficult and expensive than narrowing since you would have to drill out the plug welds, and get new tubes. As far as lengthening the front control arms, you will have to take proper geometry into consideration to not mess with the handling and cause extensive camber change or bumpsteer, but people have been doing this for years, just look at extended control arms on long travel offroad trucks, even lots of late model guys have had to do the opposite and shorten their control arms to fit bigger wheels with deeper offsets while still tucking in the fenders.

As far as boring the wheel, that is entirely an option, although it is not truly necessary to keep them hub centric. Late model wheels, just like the original wheels on our classic trucks are both lug and hub centric. It is somewhat redundant, but does serve a couple purposes, but none of which are transferring the load directly to the hub or "riding on the hub" as many people incorrectly believe. Once the wheel has been torqued down, the weight of the vehicle no longer rides on the hub bore or the lug studs, but purely on the friction of the clamped surface of the wheel to the hub face. If it was allowed to actually "ride" on the hub, that tiny bit of clearance (a couple thousandths) that allow for slip fit on the hub would allow the wheel to walk around ever so slightly, scoring the threads of the studs, wallow out the hub bore, and loosen the lug nuts. Being hub centric is very important on steel wheels with flat lug nut seats such as stock dually wheels where there is no other centering mechanism, just as most aftermarket wheels are lug centric only, they do not require the hub to be the correct size so that they can fit more applications with one wheel. Being both hub and lug centric like the stock wheel does have a few benefits, but mostly for car-dumb folk unlike most members on this site one being that the hub centric bore serves to center the wheel before the conical lug seats take over in centering the wheel as you torque it down. Someone who doesn't know what they are doing may tighten down the first lug nut without going around in the criss cross pattern, tightening down that first lug nut on a lug centric only wheel would pull up the other side, resulting in a poorly centered wheel, possibly bent studs or a warped mounting surface. But if you properly tighten them by loosely tightening the first lug to "center" that one, then doing the one directly across, then finishing in a criss cross pattern the wheel will be properly centered. A wheel that is both lug and hub centric would prevent the wheel from "pulling up" as one lug is tightened, but as you can see proper technique negates the need for that. Another benefit to having it both hub and lug centric is that in the event that your lug nuts do come loose the wheel would drop that few thousandths and ride on the hub before the studs giving you a little time to limp to the shoulder of the road, again, keeping proper check on the torque of your lug nuts would prevent that, and in my opinion, can create a false sense of security, as someone may pass it riding on the hub off as a slight vibration and keep driving until more severe damage is done or it shears the studs and the wheel comes off.

Originally Posted by special-K

I think the newest wheels I've seen used were from maybe '04 or so. None of the large diameter ones. I think many people don't like the idea of running spacers or adapters. I know I will only run run wheels made to bolt up directly.

Then I hope these same people avoid driving any sort of a dually truck, or pretty much any late model vehicle with slip on drum and disc brakes. When you think about it any slip on drum or disc brake, and the rear pair of dually wheels are nothing but ~1/4"-3/8" slip on spacers between the hub and the wheel, once the lug nuts have been torqued down the friction from the clamping force holds the wheel to the slip on disc which in turn holds the slip on disc to the hub. Not many wheels bolt up "directly" to the hub anymore. As far as bolt on spacers and adapters, true, that is one more bolted connection to keep in check, but as we all know proper torque will keep that from giving any issues. As far as it's use in relation to OEM applications? Both my daily driver Mazda truck and my wife's Infiniti SUV use a similar connection to bolt the wheels on, the brake disc itself has the studs pressed into it, and is then bolted to the hub, creating two bolted connections for the wheel to be held on. Also ALL late model 1 ton dually trucks, Ford, Dodge, and GM use ~5" bolt on spacers that are bolted to the hub so that the same wheel hub can be used on both SRW and DRW axles.

Of course everyone has a friend of a friend that had a spacer fail story to tell, and yes it happens, but the truth is most failures are due to a few things 1. the cheap cast aluminum slip on spacers that the market was flooded with years ago are prone to cracking and crushing, there are much better steel and even billet aluminum machined options out there that will not fail. 2. There are plenty of poor quality spacers being sold out there made of cheap materials with low grade studs pressed into them, do some research before purchasing. 3. Joe Nobody just goes out, buys some spacers and bolts them on, forgetting to torque them properly, much less rechecking the torque 100mi later (like you should do with ANY wheel anyway after mounting) they come loose, and fail. As with anything a little common sense goes a long way in preventing mishaps like this.

Sorry for the threadjack, I tend to get long winded when explaining things, I just thought it was pertinent information to the topic.

[thumpros@yahoo.com]

I have been tracking and following the same question. So based on this last post,I determine that using the 1.5 Billet/ Studded type spacers found on eBay will successfully allow me to safely bolt on 04-14 Tahoe or Silverado 20" factory alloys on my 68 C10?
Please confirm. Often times-long winded over explanations draw more questions... Simple success formulas work better.

Some of the "not-so-technical " folks out there miss the point and simply want to know what products have been proven to work best and safest. Thanks

[thumpros@yahoo.com]

Hello SeenTen, Did you ever get your late model alloys to fit and what did you do to make it work if so? Thanks.
Rod

[Boog]

Good luck getting a response. He hasn't posted since 11/13/12.

[thumpros@yahoo.com]

I guess this is my response. Thanks.

[1968aj]

this has been brought up before. some will say the wheels don't look right on our trucks. if they will work im all ears. would be a cheaper way than buying wheels I really want but cant afford right now.