rear drum removal

[wingnut6999]

Hiya. Recently aquired a 72 c10. I've been hearing a grinding noise in the right rear. Because the person before me really didn't take care of things and my ebrake cable is disconnected, I figured something was loose inside the drum. After removing the tire, ive adjusted the star as far in as I can. I've tapped on it with a hammer from the back, sprayed the center hub with deep creep, and even try ed prying from the back but it won't come off. It's free where the studs are. Anything else I need to so or try?

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by wingnut6999

Hiya. Recently aquired a 72 c10. I've been hearing a grinding noise in the right rear. Because the person before me really didn't take care of things and my ebrake cable is disconnected, I figured something was loose inside the drum. After removing the tire, ive adjusted the star as far in as I can. I've tapped on it with a hammer from the back, sprayed the center hub with deep creep, and even try ed prying from the back but it won't come off. It's free where the studs are. Anything else I need to so or try?

First off, welcome to the board...

About the only thing you can do is keep working with it. Sometimes if you pry from the back while hammering around the outside edge of the drum it will break it loose. You have to keep working around the drum instead of just in one spot. If anyone has hammered on the end of the axle it will mushroom the end of the axle flange. I usually take a flat file and file down the outside edge of the axle where it sticks through the drum. It is hard to do because of the studs sticking out. There is nothing fun about taking a stuck drum off, period!!!

LockDoc

[Steeveedee]

Leon has given some options. If they don't work, you can use a hacksaw or a Sawzall and/or a Dremel tool to cut the drum in half. If it is making that much noise, the drum is toast, anyway. You don't need to worry about the brake shoes or the springs, in this case. You can buy kits for all of the replacement parts. Sounds brutal, but it sounds like it has already been brutalized by neglect before you bought it. HTH.

[1968aj]

Been thre before. Get a bigger hammer and keep tapping around . It will come off.

[mike16]

wait a minute! before you cut crack or blow something up....

check to see if the rim is riveted onto the axle flange. On my truck, also a 72 c10 long bed with only 71K miles on it when I got it from the origonal owner. the drums are riveted to the axle flange. look closely and see.

[Xeen]

Originally Posted by mike16

wait a minute! before you cut crack or blow something up....

check to see if the rim is riveted onto the axle flange. On my truck, also a 72 c10 long bed with only 71K miles on it when I got it from the origonal owner. the drums are riveted to the axle flange. look closely and see.

I learn something new every day, I didn't know that.

There is also the possibility of getting a "loaner" drum puller from your local O'Reilly's or another auto parts store a lot of them are loaning specialty tools these days.
Drum pullers are like magic they will pull even the most stubborn drums.

[wingnut6999]

Thanks all. I will look for any signs of rivets when I get home tonight. As I work for a local company that sells napa parts and I get them for cost (thank goodness ) I will also see about the drum puller. I already purchased the spring kit and I'll pick up new shoes today. Guess I better price drums too. Lol

[Xeen]

Sometimes those drums are literally rust welded to the axle shaft and require a hand sledge to bust them loose and don't worry about destroying the drum because they are inexpensive and likely need replaced anyway, but if you use impact force in a circle around the outer face edge of the drum you can likely get them to break loose without tearing up the drum.
Do yourself a favor and be careful of the wheel studs because the threads are delicate and they also bend easily.

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by mike16

wait a minute! before you cut crack or blow something up....

check to see if the rim is riveted onto the axle flange. On my truck, also a 72 c10 long bed with only 71K miles on it when I got it from the origonal owner. the drums are riveted to the axle flange. look closely and see.

That would be true for front drums, but not for the rear.

[mike16]

I can only speak towards my own truck. rather than grind off the rivets. I pulled the diff cover and then pulled the axles to do my brakes. And I'm talkin bout the rears. Its a PITA but i did it to preserve the origonality.

Mine has rivets. others may not.

I dont have drums on the front of my 72 c10. it has the disc brake set up

[wingnut6999]

Ok. The drum is off. I used a wire brush on my dremmel and cleaned where the drum met the shaft. Sprayed with deep creep. Then while prying on one side I tapped with a hammer on the other. After it came off and I saw what was underneath I wanted to put it back on. Lol no shoes left. Everything covered in black dust. Drum actually looks good. The connector for the ebrake was what was scraping on the inside face of the drum. Thanks all for the help.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by wingnut6999

Ok. The drum is off. I used a wire brush on my dremmel and cleaned where the drum met the shaft. Sprayed with deep creep. Then while prying on one side I tapped with a hammer on the other. After it came off and I saw what was underneath I wanted to put it back on. Lol no shoes left. Everything covered in black dust. Drum actually looks good. The connector for the ebrake was what was scraping on the inside face of the drum. Thanks all for the help.

Good to hear you got it off. Sounds like you need a brake rebuild all the way around....

LockDoc

[wingnut6999]

Here's a quick look at what I found. I already have new spring and adjuster kits and shoes

[mrein3]

Originally Posted by 1968aj

Been thre before. Get a bigger hammer and keep tapping around . It will come off.

Originally Posted by mike16

wait a minute! before you cut crack or blow something up....

check to see if the rim is riveted onto the axle flange. On my truck, also a 72 c10 long bed with only 71K miles on it when I got it from the origonal owner. the drums are riveted to the axle flange. look closely and see.

After making sure it isn't still attached from the factory, tire off, put the lug nuts on a few threads to protect the lugs, then give it five or six (depending on year) good blows, one between each lug, with a sledge hammer between each lug. If you don't see rust dust when you whack it you probably didn't hit it hard enough.

[mike16]

Originally Posted by mrein3

After making sure it isn't still attached from the factory, tire off, put the lug nuts on a few threads to protect the lugs, then give it five or six (depending on year) good blows, one between each lug, with a sledge hammer between each lug. If you don't see rust dust when you whack it you probably didn't hit it hard enough.

Thats very hard on a drum.

I will state that , for the record I stand corrected re the rivet deal.

My truck has them but looking closely at his...I dont see them.

I wiil pull my rim and photograph what I have and add it to the record.

I dont think bangin on a drum is a good thing, they are cast iron and crack. I have seen bits of drum flying off a truck when the brakes were applied. scarry. but ok if your going to replace the drum.

[GRX]

Be sure to clean the threads on those self adjusters. And do not mix them up. One side is left hand thread. The other is standard. Usually marked but not always. Make sure the teeth on the star wheel are not worn away otherwise they will not stay adjusted.

This is also a good time to make sure your E-brake cable moves freely in the housing. If not spray some penetrant in there and try working it free.

[67 chevelle]

They look slightly worn

[too much stuff]

Originally Posted by mike16

wait a minute! before you cut crack or blow something up....

check to see if the rim is riveted onto the axle flange. On my truck, also a 72 c10 long bed with only 71K miles on it when I got it from the origonal owner. the drums are riveted to the axle flange. look closely and see.

I would like to see a pic of that. I have never seen that on a 1/2 ton in the rear.

On a side note, i have drilled an 1/8th hole in the center of the drum where the axle flange mates up. Just through the drum only, it helps relieve the rust pressure. Then with 2 hammers, i lay a beater hammer between the studs, and smack it with another hammer going around between all the studs. Has worked decent for me... They are never fun either way!

[wingnut6999]

Today I took everything off and started the clean up.i bought new spring kits and new adjusters as well. I won't be hooking up the ebrake as I need new cables and the ebrake lever is pretty beat up from laying inside.

[bigmac73]

Originally Posted by mike16

Thats very hard on a drum.

I will state that , for the record I stand corrected re the rivet deal.

My truck has them but looking closely at his...I dont see them.

I wiil pull my rim and photograph what I have and add it to the record.

I dont think bangin on a drum is a good thing, they are cast iron and crack. I have seen bits of drum flying off a truck when the brakes were applied. scarry. but ok if your going to replace the drum.

I will say hog wash on the rivets.... in my 35 years of working on Chevys never seen this, and using the hammer method is the correct way of removing rusted/ siezed drums just have to lightly persuade and work it

[wingnut6999]

Well, I had hoped that some springs and shoes was gonna do it. Well add Wheel cylinders and brake lines and it's almost a complete rebuild. Today I start on the drivers side. I'd already replaced that brake line and have the cylinder in hand and the adjuster is due in tuesday. The drums and ebrake will be done when my wallet says it'd ok. Lol here's a before and after

[geezer#99]

Do your drums have a slot in them to adjust the star wheel?
Replacement (new) drums won't have a slot.
If you're going new drums in the future, now is a good time to make a slot in the backing plate to access the star wheel.
Parts stores have rubber plugs to fit a slot in the backing plate. Use one as a template.

[wingnut6999]

Yep. Both have the slot. And the adjuster kits comes with the plugs. I'll make sure to cut a slot if the new drums don't. Thanks for the tip.

[Xeen]

Wingnut;
There is supposed to be a wave washer in between the parking brake lever and the brake shoe lever and if it isn't there it will cause the assembly to stick and or bind which causes excessive brake wear so if they weren't there or you didn't put them back you need to pull it back apart and install them.
If you don't have any you can find them at Ace hardware in the special fasteners bins of the nuts and bolts section.
That wave washer is very important.

[wingnut6999]

I haven't installed any parking brake parts yet as I need cables and 1 of these. What will happen if I install everything without the cables?