Mechanical to internal solid state regulator

[TwistedCycles]

I poked around on here a bit and can't find any useful information about swapping my mechanically regulated alternator for a later model 3 wire internally regulated one. Anyone point me in the right direction? I'm very much a do it yourself type guy. I've done everything but the welding on this thing so far, and that's only cause I don't have a circuit to plug my welder in to.

B.

[frankslagoon]

WEll. first let me say I haven't done this yet. But here's acouple pics to check out. looks pretty easy. I think the wiring is a little different between idiot light and guage.

[TwistedCycles]

Awesome. Now who knows which alternator to buy? I think I heard someone say to get one from a mid 70s Camaro. I'm pretty sure it's just about the clocking of the two wires in the back half of the shell.
B.

[Gromit]

Don't know about the alternator; but you might call these guys who sell the conversion kit.

I think it matters which side you want your alternator to be on (driver or passenger); and maybe whether you are running HEI or Non-HEI; (but I'm not sure about the HEI part)..

http://www.americanautowire.com/shop...rsion-kit-4576

$29
Item #37787

1970 CHEVROLET TRUCK

ALTERNATOR CONVERSION KIT, external regulator to internal CS alternator
Note: This is a plug-in conversion that can be used with 1986 and later CS series alternators

ALTERNATOR CONVERSION KIT, external regulator to internal CS alternator
Note: This is a plug-in conversion that can be used with a 1986 and later CS series alternators

[RichardJ]

I recommend both you guys get a conversion kit like this one. What I'm seeing in your posts doesn't give me a lot of confidence.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aw...FYpffgod6tYEJQ

frankslagoon, wad up that disaster of a diagram and set a match to it. Not that it's incorrect, but that cluttered mess on paper would end up looking like an equally cluttered mess under your hood.

In that diagram, the wire from the idiot light is connected to pin #4 on that original plug. If you extend that idiot light wire directly to Pin #1 on the new Alternator, you can eliminate all that crap in the drawing.

There is a wire on that diagram that goes from the junction at "To Vehicle Battery", down to Pin #3 on the old Alternator plug. They have it labeled as "Sensing" and they don't connect it to anything.

You are going to see that a whole lot of people jumper Pin #2 on the Alternator, directly to the Alternator Batt post as their idea of a Sensing wire. It's to bad none of those geniuses' didn't work for GM back in the '70s because they would have saved GM a lot of expensive copper wire.

Let's pretend GM knew what they were doing and run a wire from the Pin #3 on the regulator plug directly to Pin#2 on the Alt.

Two wires. It's as simple as that.

It doesn't matter if the 67-72 had an idiot light or a gauge, both had a resister in the under dash harness, so the DN to SI Alternator conversion is done the same.

I see Gromit has shown a way to wire a CS Alternator which is different.

[VetteVet]

Try this:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=417872