Frame stiffener thoughts

[Dodge68charger]

I really want to stiffen up my frame. I went from a long bed frame to a shortbed and dont want any flex. I like the porterbuilt inner frame stiffener but its $1250. I was thinking about getting there trailing arm crossmember for $250 and bending my own steel pipe to make up the forward section of the stiffener any thoughts.
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[tinydb84]

I am going to make my own. I have a sfbd so I cant use Porterbuilts set up.

When you factor in the time and materials (assuming you already have a bender) it is probably cheaper to go with Porterbuilt though.

[brad_man_72]

Cage it. Its impossible to make a flat frame not flex.

[69chevy lwb]

I'm not sure how it would be cheaper to buy one built you might be a couple hundred in materials and 4 hours labor. You can use a cheap harbor freight bender if you don't mind the extra effort on your end. I did my c notch and I was into it about 100 in materials I did the whole rear suspension for about 600 with the watts link. I say build it all its easy enough.

[Dodge68charger]

Thank you. I think im gonna build it. What does the watts linkage do?
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[69chevy lwb]

It keeps the rear end perfectly centered through the suspension cycle and most of all looks sweet! But really is only necessary on a truck with oversized wheels where you can't afford the small amount of shifting a panhard bar gives you. You can also use the watts link to change the roll center of the suspension and the direction of drive to some degree as well. But you need to know quite a bit to figure all of that out. Rob at no limit could tell you much more than I can he has one on his hell boy c10 that's actually mounted parallel to the ground under the differential. Go check that out!

[Dodge68charger]

Thanks for the reply. Im going to do some reasearch on it and see if it will suit my application. Your romight though. Looks sick!!! Nice work on your truck n thanks for the motivation to build my own stuff.
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[69chevy lwb]

No problem if you ever need help with anything feel free to ask and post up pictures of your progress I'm sure everyone will enjoy it

['68 Newtricks]

I've been tossing around the idea of a "mini" cage. What I mean by that is a cage that doesn't go over the head, but more or less around the floor only. This truck is a daily driver and so I'd rather not have intrusive tubing throughout the already small cab.

Basically, picture the top of a good rollcage. Here is my blazer...





Now, set that on the floor of the bed. Maybe use 1.25" - 1.5" HREW tubing. Either add some plates that use the stock bed/frame bolts or add feet through the bed and to the frame. The cab would be much the same as a normal cage but without anything vertical. I could even work in my buddy buckets into the frame work and store the original bucket frame.

I just don't know how I would get out to the front core support area. Normally that starts at the A pillar like my Blazer will be. I'm also not sure how to connect the bed cage with the cab cage without drilling holes through the headboard/ cab. Maybe go under underneath?

Since I notched the frame in the back (wish I hadn't, don't need it) the bed cage will help bring strength to that area PLUS a huge amount of anti-twist.

A cage 2" tall helps with twist just as well as a cage 4' tall. The 4' tall cage needs more triangulation for lateral support. (roll over)

Was also toying with the idea of adding a 2"-2.5" DOM bar down the length of the frame, on the outside. This wont help with twist though, only sag, with would still help with door alignment while parked funny.