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Old 01-29-2016, 01:03 AM   #11
swamp rat
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Spanaway
Posts: 8,451
Re: Starting my engine build

I would recommend if you don't have a clevis that the chain be long enough to make a loop with a bolt nut/washer for the picker hook so the engine cant shift once its lifted, the loop should be just forward of the center of the engine block if pulled by itself (which i read you planed on doing)

I got to say i tend to agree with Grumpy on this one, partly because you are taking the guys word on the life of the build, if it was me I'd take the short block to the machine shop and let him take it apart and reassemble the short block as you described previously that way you will know all the oil galley's are cleaned, fresh bearings, honed and rings and nice and clean. Bring it back mount it to the engine stand and assemble the long block yourself. Its a fresh start and its good insurance.

EDIT: If you still choose not to do this then if it was me I'd think about pulling the bearing caps and inspecting the journals and the cap half of the bearing to see that wear is acceptable, you could also do a quick Plasti Guage check to see if bearing clearance is within spec. Of course this will mean finding another torque spec and sequence. The other part of the equation is the end play on the crank which should be checked.

Whatever you to do use caution when torquing the head bolts as that 3 wheeled lift can and will tip over if your not careful, when i did mine i had to hang on the the back of the stand and i rolled the engine over to my work bench for a bit of stability.
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Mike.

Swamp Rat build thread :
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=595019

72 3/4T 4X4
4" BDS Lift
33" BFG's

Last edited by swamp rat; 01-29-2016 at 01:15 AM.
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