Iron nose cone for starter? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

dion · 03-19-2002, 10:40 PM

I guess I need one of these, what is it and what is it for? My new starter is grinding badly when I start it up.

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Restored 72 Cheyenne C20
San Diego, CA

**MJN** · 03-19-2002, 11:20 PM

The iron nose on the starters were for special high performance applications with manual trannies and the 11 inch clutch. The nose will interchange between any GM starter too. You may need to get a starter shim if the grinding doesn't stop with a new starter or it could be the teeth are not meshing with the correct 14 inch flywheel and number of teeth. Hope this helps.

Mike C · 03-19-2002, 11:25 PM

Why would you need an iron nose cone to stop the grinding? Read the responses to your other post here:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/board/ub...ML/020067.html

dion · 03-19-2002, 11:51 PM

This is an area that I know little about, I'm just going by what the Mechanics are telling me. They also said I might need a new Flywheel. The Block that went in came from a 69' so the Starter won't line up correctly, so I'm told. The Starter was Shimmed and different bolts were put in but it didn't help.

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Restored 72 Cheyenne C20
San Diego, CA

69 longhorn · 03-19-2002, 11:52 PM

a quick tip on shimming starters......you should be able to slide a 1/8" rod between the armature shaft,& the outside of the flexplate(not loose,but not tight). If its too tight,you need shims under both bolts,& if too loose,you need cut the shims and the shim under the outer bolt only. also check that your bolts arent bent,& that you have the front strap. good luck......69 longhorn.

72shadetree · 03-20-2002, 01:01 AM

had this problem to and once you figure wich bolt pattern you need if shims dont work take a flat file and file the surface on top of starter where bolt holes are run into this 3 times already just file a little and keep rechecking.where the starter bolts to block some blocks are not completely right in that area.learned this from a old mech/racer/garage owner hope this helps

*Fast68Chevy* · 03-20-2002, 01:04 AM

MJN- cast iron three bolt noses were used on our trucks with all sizes flywheel and clutches and manual trannies, 10" 11" 12 ", all of them, trucks used the iron bellhousing with starter bolted to the housing only, all are iron for all manual trannies, the iron noses only on special hp bit is bs

O'l Buck · 03-20-2002, 01:18 AM

your iron cone will bolt on your new starter as long as the armatures are the same length, if not, you will have to do some shopping.

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'72 Chevy 1/2T 4x4 shortbox stepside 350/350auto on '84
ralleys and 31/10.5s

67 Cutlass convertible
330, 3spd stick

90 GMC Jimmy
350/auto
Chad Stephens
Orleans,NE

Huck · 03-20-2002, 07:27 AM

Have had both Iron and Aluminum nose starters on my 350. they should be interchangeable with the exception of bolt length. Grinding is most probably a problem related to the alignment of starter, condition of starter, or condition of flywheel gear. My .02----Huck

------------------
72 Cheyenne, 350, 5spd, LWB, Super trim.
71 GMC JIMMY 4X4 --needs stuff-!

custom10nut · 04-24-2016, 06:42 PM

My two cents. Find somebody around you that specializes in starters. Get an actual GM starter, as the aftermarkets are hit and miss on the tolerance. A proper fitting nose cone needs no shims. Once you get the one that fits, never let it out of your sight. I traded out a nose cone through three motors once, till it got cracked. Make sure when you're looking, the top of the cone has the bevel on it. Auto parts store will tell you that "they all fit" but they don't.

custom10nut · 04-24-2016, 09:14 PM

In addition to my last post. The bendix teeth have to mesh with the flex plate teeth, with the space of a thick paper clip for the starter to work properly. Many times the problem is that the solenoid doesn't push the bendix out far enough to fully engage. This COULD be caused by a weak ground. I fixed mine by running a long ground cable (negative side of battery) down to one of the starter mount bolts. This fixed the problem , and also fixed the hot start issue I was having

**LEEVON** · 04-24-2016, 10:21 PM

Good advice, but I hope the OP is not still having starting issues 14 YEARS after he posted this!

**special-K** · 04-25-2016, 06:55 AM

Yeah, it's always great to see some old names.But, thanks for posting the good info. I have never shimmed a starter in my whole life. Seeya in another 14 years

03-19-2002, 10:40 PM	#1
dion 72 Cheyenne Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: San Diego Posts: 2,086	Iron nose cone for starter? I guess I need one of these, what is it and what is it for? My new starter is grinding badly when I start it up. ------------------ Restored 72 Cheyenne C20 San Diego, CA __________________ Burnout Idle 1972Cheyenne 1966/67Stouts

03-19-2002, 11:20 PM	#2
MJN Registered User Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Maquoketa, Ia/ Orr, Mn Posts: 3,051	The iron nose on the starters were for special high performance applications with manual trannies and the 11 inch clutch. The nose will interchange between any GM starter too. You may need to get a starter shim if the grinding doesn't stop with a new starter or it could be the teeth are not meshing with the correct 14 inch flywheel and number of teeth. Hope this helps. __________________ '51 South Bend Model "9A" '56 Chevy 3600 NAPCO '74 Chevy Cheyenne Super K20-restored on 37's '72 GMC Sierra Custom K2500- in progress '08 GMC Envoy Denali '12 GMC Sierra 2500HD Denali '17 GMC Yukon XL VCCA member #58596 http://www.nohrco.com

03-19-2002, 11:25 PM	#3
Mike C Registered User Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Austin, TX, USA Posts: 7,727	Why would you need an iron nose cone to stop the grinding? Read the responses to your other post here: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/board/ub...ML/020067.html __________________ 44 Willys MB 52 M38A1 64 Corvette Coupe 68 Camaro 'vert LT1 & TH700 69 Z/28 355 12.6's @110 69 Chevy Short Step 4 1/2"/7" drop 72 Jimmy 4WD 4spd 4" & 35's 02 GMC 2500HD 4x4 Duramax

03-19-2002, 11:51 PM	#4
dion 72 Cheyenne Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: San Diego Posts: 2,086	This is an area that I know little about, I'm just going by what the Mechanics are telling me. They also said I might need a new Flywheel. The Block that went in came from a 69' so the Starter won't line up correctly, so I'm told. The Starter was Shimmed and different bolts were put in but it didn't help. ------------------ Restored 72 Cheyenne C20 San Diego, CA __________________ Burnout Idle 1972Cheyenne 1966/67Stouts

03-19-2002, 11:52 PM	#5
69 longhorn Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: rock island,il,usa Posts: 5,382	a quick tip on shimming starters......you should be able to slide a 1/8" rod between the armature shaft,& the outside of the flexplate(not loose,but not tight). If its too tight,you need shims under both bolts,& if too loose,you need cut the shims and the shim under the outer bolt only. also check that your bolts arent bent,& that you have the front strap. good luck......69 longhorn. __________________ http://community.webshots.com/user/hotrodhorn

03-20-2002, 01:01 AM	#6
72shadetree KEEP ON TRUCKING Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: martinsville va Posts: 2,563	had this problem to and once you figure wich bolt pattern you need if shims dont work take a flat file and file the surface on top of starter where bolt holes are run into this 3 times already just file a little and keep rechecking.where the starter bolts to block some blocks are not completely right in that area.learned this from a old mech/racer/garage owner hope this helps __________________ 72 cheyenne 2wd lwb 71 k20 sons bassett va

03-20-2002, 01:04 AM	#7
Fast68Chevy Account Suspended Join Date: May 2000 Location: IL Posts: 0	MJN- cast iron three bolt noses were used on our trucks with all sizes flywheel and clutches and manual trannies, 10" 11" 12 ", all of them, trucks used the iron bellhousing with starter bolted to the housing only, all are iron for all manual trannies, the iron noses only on special hp bit is bs

03-20-2002, 01:18 AM	#8
O'l Buck Recovering Truck Driver Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Orleans, NE USA Posts: 1,883	your iron cone will bolt on your new starter as long as the armatures are the same length, if not, you will have to do some shopping. ------------------ '72 Chevy 1/2T 4x4 shortbox stepside 350/350auto on '84 ralleys and 31/10.5s 67 Cutlass convertible 330, 3spd stick 90 GMC Jimmy 350/auto Chad Stephens Orleans,NE __________________ 67 K-20 350, SM465, Eaton rear, 4.56 no spin option 00 Dodge 2500 4x4, 24V cummins, 5 speed Chad South Central Nebraska

03-20-2002, 07:27 AM	#9
Huck Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Shelbyville, KY Posts: 3,261	Have had both Iron and Aluminum nose starters on my 350. they should be interchangeable with the exception of bolt length. Grinding is most probably a problem related to the alignment of starter, condition of starter, or condition of flywheel gear. My .02----Huck ------------------ 72 Cheyenne, 350, 5spd, LWB, Super trim. 71 GMC JIMMY 4X4 --needs stuff-!

04-24-2016, 06:42 PM	#10
custom10nut Registered User Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: East Tn (In the heart of the Smoky Mtns) Posts: 1,887	Re: Iron nose cone for starter? My two cents. Find somebody around you that specializes in starters. Get an actual GM starter, as the aftermarkets are hit and miss on the tolerance. A proper fitting nose cone needs no shims. Once you get the one that fits, never let it out of your sight. I traded out a nose cone through three motors once, till it got cracked. Make sure when you're looking, the top of the cone has the bevel on it. Auto parts store will tell you that "they all fit" but they don't.

04-24-2016, 09:14 PM	#11
custom10nut Registered User Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: East Tn (In the heart of the Smoky Mtns) Posts: 1,887	Re: Iron nose cone for starter? In addition to my last post. The bendix teeth have to mesh with the flex plate teeth, with the space of a thick paper clip for the starter to work properly. Many times the problem is that the solenoid doesn't push the bendix out far enough to fully engage. This COULD be caused by a weak ground. I fixed mine by running a long ground cable (negative side of battery) down to one of the starter mount bolts. This fixed the problem , and also fixed the hot start issue I was having

04-24-2016, 10:21 PM	#12
LEEVON Moderator Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Ozark, MO Posts: 4,888	Re: Iron nose cone for starter? Good advice, but I hope the OP is not still having starting issues 14 YEARS after he posted this! __________________ '20 Silverado Trail Boss ~ '17 Tahoe ~ '79 K15 Sierra Grande ~ '76 Blazer 2wd ~ '71 Cheyenne swb ~ '55 Pontiac Safari ~'50 3100 bagged ~ '80 Wife ~ Late model kids

04-25-2016, 06:55 AM	#13
special-K Special Order Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Mt Airy, MD Posts: 85,851	Re: Iron nose cone for starter? Yeah, it's always great to see some old names.But, thanks for posting the good info. I have never shimmed a starter in my whole life. Seeya in another 14 years __________________ "BUILDING A BETTER WAY TO SERVE THE USA"......67/72......"The New Breed" GMC '67 C1500 Wideside Super Custom SWB: 327/M22/3.42 posi.........."The '67" (project) GMC '72 K2500 Wideside Sierra Custom Camper: 350/TH350/4.10 Power-Lok..."The '72" (rolling) Tim "Don't call me a redneck. I'm a rough cut country gentleman" R.I.P. ~ East Side Low Life ~ El Jay ~ 72BLUZ ~ Fasteddie69 ~ Ron586 ~ 67ChevyRedneck ~ Grumpy Old Man ~

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