power steering on 68 4x4

[David Little]

I have a 68 chevy 4x4 with manual steering. I bought a 69 power steering box and pump. I am having trouble putting it one. Any one completed the job. What has to be done to make it work?
Dave

[Erl]

Dave,
I just completed that very job last month. The biggest problem is the indentation on the frame, or lack of one. If the frame has been indented from the factory for a P/S box you are half way there. If it is flat on the frame it is more difficult. Let me know if it is flat or indented.

[David Little]

Erl,
Thanks for responding. It is flat.
Dave

[JimKshortstep4x4]

It might be worth getting the conversion kit from GMC Pauls.

Jim

http://www.gmcpauls.com/steering2.htm

[David Little]

I talked to them, and they have never did the job on a 68. Do you know what the kit provides or accomplishes?

[Erl]

I did not and would not use such a kit, and here is why. The indention on the frame is to allow the steering box to align with the steering column. If you just shim it out the column must be pryed over and the rag joint must fight to hold it in place. This will work, but puts excess stress on all the components involved. You should indent the frame for a proper conversion.

[David Little]

I agree. I tried the shim thing on my own and the strain on the steering column was noticable. What did you use for a connecting link. The box i have is coming off the bottom. the manual off the side.
did you cut the frame or change the front of frame with an indented frame?
Dave

[Erl]

Dave,
I have the NAPA part numbers for the correct drag link components. They are at home, so it will be next Monday. Do you have a 4x4 P/S box? Are the holes to mount the box already drilled?

[David Little]

The box I bought used was from a 4x4. The holes do not match up, I torched some. I appreciate your help
Dave

[Erl]

Here are the NAPA numbers to build the drag link you need:
269-1105
269-2441
ES 2234R
This drag link was a direct bolt up for my truck, should be the same for you. You will need to grind a quarter moon shape from the top frame flange. Then heat the side frame flange red hot and hit with large hammer. Knock the side frame in enough to provide clearance and in enough to match the curved section you ground away. Weld up the top section. Remember to remove the truck weight from the front axle by supporting it on the frame behind the spring hanger.
Let me know if you have any more questions or I was not clear. I should have taken pictures when I did mine.

[breeh]

I did the offset thing on my conversion because I wasn't crazy about the "heat and beat" method. I replaced the straight '68 column with a 69 and later style (also took this opportunity to put in a tilt). These have the intermediate shaft with the u-joints.....problem solved. By going this route you can also put another piece of plate on the backside to strengthen the entire mounting location on the frame.

[David Little]

Erl,
You're the man. I guess I will try the heat and beat, but Breeh, I llike your idea of the newer column. I'm learning a lot. I'll let you all know how I make out on it. I can't work on it for about a week.
Dave