Electric Fans

[hogfarm]

I need a little help. I got my 54 Chevy truck running yesterday,but there was a problem with the fans,it would not come on,I ran a wire to the fan and it worked I want to replace the entire fan,the 16"' puller just does not seem to work well. Any ideas?

[my56chevytruck]

Originally Posted by hogfarm

I need a little help. I got my 54 Chevy truck running yesterday,but there was a problem with the fans,it would not come on,I ran a wire to the fan and it worked I want to replace the entire fan,the 16"' puller just does not seem to work well. Any ideas?

Just a thought, is your fan temperature controlled?? if you have a manual adjustment to the settings, turn the key on and adjust your settings. is the fan set to go on with the ignition key? As you've already found, the fan works so you've got a ground or power lead disconnected.

[Coupeguy2001]

I installed a 16" fan on my truck, and it is manual, in that I had so many problems with the thermostat placement and reliability, I just put a switch on a small pedestal between the seats, and I turn it on when I want. While I'm driving, if my temp is about 160 all the time, the fan got left on.
I have made it a habit to disconnect the overdrive wen I get to a stop light, and my finger just goes to the fan switch. I try to turn it off every time when I take off, but as I'm driving, I habitually check both switches.
Not the best method, but it works for me.
I suppose you could get an adjustable fan thermostat, and set it to come on at 180, and turn off at 160, but sometimes that can get a bit wearisome trying to get it adjusted just right.
I had my fan wired to a fan switch off of a 86 Buick Grand national, but even though it was a new switch, the fan was coming on too late all the time, and taking forever to cool off. I have a 3 row aluminum radiator, and in the summer, it doesn't get much over 180, even when it is 114 outside.
Your head gasket isn't made to run much over 190, so I would be cautious of a fan switch on the engine that you didn't have a switch in the cab that you could over ride.

[mr48chev]

I searched and couldn't find what engine you have in that truck but believe it runs a V8 and automatic.
I would think that the fan switch is set higher than you want it to or is in a spot where it may not be picking up the heat quick enough.
You might want to investigate what the best location for the switch is or find out if there is a switch available that can easily have it's perimeters set where you want them to be. I'd think kicking on just a little higher than the thermostat's opening temp and closing a few degrees below that for a starting point.

As for electric fans I'd trust an oem fan over and after market fan most any time. The fans on my 2000 Deville will suck a cat through the radiator if he is standing close enough when they are kicked on. I've seen in posts on other boards that Ford Taurus fans are a popular choice.

[hogfarm]

I have a 335 stroker motor in my 54.I have no problem with heat running down te road,it is just in town the fan just doesnt have enough volume to keep truck real cool,maybe an OEM fan is the anwser

[Jemezcrusher]

Originally Posted by hogfarm

I need a little help. I got my 54 Chevy truck running yesterday,but there was a problem with the fans,it would not come on,I ran a wire to the fan and it worked I want to replace the entire fan,the 16"' puller just does not seem to work well. Any ideas?

If you have a temp sensor switch in the engine/manifold you have to avoid using teflon tape to seal it. The sensor needs a ground to operate and the tape can insulate the sensor from ground. You can check that with a continuity tester

[gmachinz]

What are your radiator dimensions? I have some suggestions for ya but I need to know radiator fin size area first.

[mr48chev]

One way or another you need a fan that can move a lot of air when you are at an idle or running in slow traffic. That was the big problem with my 48 with no clearance between the water pump and radiator. I just ran one of those small flat flexfans and it is pretty well worthless except for cutting your hand when you work around it.

I keep looking at the pusher fan in the Dodge mini van I have at the house thinking it might fit in front of the radiator. I'm not a big enthusiast of pusher fans but those seem to work well in the mini vans and they don't take up a lot of space. With the 282 I'll need all the air I can move through the radiator.

[IndyBowtie]

Here's my contribution to the fan issue.
Running a .060 over but otherwise stock 283. I have been told that a .060 over engine runs hot historically but all I know is that mine does. 185 thermo. A/c condensor in front of rad. Had the bone stock radiator but grabbed an OEM elect puller from the junk yard. Ran hot most of the time. After a couple years driving and fighting this problem...put a new aluminum radiator in, that came with a 6 blade fan, wired full time with ignition. Still ran hot...250 sitting in line to a hotrod show. Moved that fan in front of rad ( luckily I was able to switch the blade around and make it a pusher). With just this fan runs 185 down the road. Sitting in traffic heat still climbs, so I Added the junk yard fan to the back of this new rad, on a toggle, now just flip it in traffic. In summer heat and traffic now it seldom go's over 185. It clears the belt by a 1/4".
So yes I use both a pusher and a puller

[hogfarm]

My radiator is 24" tall and 20" wide X 3" thick. Guy at radiator shop that did the flush said I could not get a better one

[hogfarm]

Originally Posted by hogfarm

My radiator is 24" tall and 20" wide X 3" thick. Guy at radiator shop that did the flush said I could not get a better one

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[gmachinz]

If you at least 5.25" of room between the wp pulley and the radiator, I have a solution for ya!

[hogfarm]

Originally Posted by gmachinz

If you at least 5.25" of room between the wp pulley and the radiator, I have a solution for ya!

3" max
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[gmachinz]

Hmmm....those Spal fans are terrible at pulling big CFM. So with your old fan removed you only have 3" of room max? If that's the case, you really don't have a lot of options. I'd suggest a HD thermal clutch and a 7-blade fan then make a universal shroud. The other option for late model fan upgrades would require way forward planning-moving the entire engine/trans back 2-3 inches would give you room....but most people don't think about the cooling system when planning on dropping motor/trans in.

[hogfarm]

Originally Posted by gmachinz

Hmmm....those Spal fans are terrible at pulling big CFM. So with your old fan removed you only have 3" of room max? If that's the case, you really don't have a lot of options. I'd suggest a HD thermal clutch and a 7-blade fan then make a universal shroud. The other option for late model fan upgrades would require way forward planning-moving the entire engine/trans back 2-3 inches would give you room....but most people don't think about the cooling system when planning on dropping motor/trans in.

Yes 3". Maybe 3 1/2". Motor is as far back as I could go. Even then had to modify firewall. I ran the truck for a half hour in the shop got up to about 200-210 deg
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[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by hogfarm

Posted via Mobile Device

it looks like your at a point where you could modify the radiator support and fit a Thunderbird fan , same size as M8, in there. If your interested on how to do it send me an email. Its an a fairly easy task and still looks good.

This is a 47 1 ton with a TBird fan and a 292 6 cylinder which is longer than a v8

[hogfarm]

Send email address
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[gmachinz]

The T-Bird/Mark VIII fan shrouds can be trimmed by about 1.25" to reduce the overall depth of it to 4.5" but then you'll still want to use a foam seal around the edge to eliminate running against the fins. If you're willing to modify the core support that is a great alternative as well. Again, mocking up prior to paint/detailing/installing is the key-always better to go overkill on the cooling system and scale back if need be than the alternative.

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by hogfarm

Send email address
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Its in my sig line

[solidaxel]

I have had good luck with Mopar/Jeep electric fans
I use a 195* thermo switch to ground with a relay ad a 180* thermostat
Works great in the desert with A/C on high

DWCSR has some nice relays!

[hogfarm]

Thanks forall the help.I know what I need to do just got to find my direction

[Daze57]

HOGFARM

there is one more solution although it is on the $$ side .
look up ''sidewinder fans'' this is a very thin ...v powerful radiator fan -the motor is mounted on the side and the whole fan can be clocked to fit almost any application ,
this thing pulls in ALOT of air and it just might help your situation .
i also agree that the taurus -t bird fans are really good --- i was thinkin on the lines of what gives you the best fit . ........good luck and stay cool !!!

[hogfarm]

Originally Posted by Daze57

HOGFARM

there is one more solution although it is on the $$ side .
look up ''sidewinder fans'' this is a very thin ...v powerful radiator fan -the motor is mounted on the side and the whole fan can be clocked to fit almost any application ,
this thing pulls in ALOT of air and it just might help your situation .
i also agree that the taurus -t bird fans are really good --- i was thinkin on the lines of what gives you the best fit . ........good luck and stay cool !!!

I am learning more about fans than I ever wanted to know. I decided to pull the fan out of my truck just to see what I had in there I didn't remember, when I put it in a fan was just a fan. I have a maradyne M162k-f about 2100 cfm.
I did call sidewinder fan. About $380.00. He told me I did not need that fan and he would sell me one for $89.00.
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[gmachinz]

Holy crap-$380?!? Wow....I have RF24 T-Bird fans for the same price too. I've worked with a rep for Siemens/VDO who gave me all the rundowns many years back regarding Motorcraft fans-best OEM fan imo!

[hogfarm]

What I did.Like I said I recived a lot of help and advice,I and I thank all of you.To me a fan was a fan no concideration to CFM.I did find a fan with 2500 CFM from speedway motors,it is a "Cooling Components" product.It almost bolts right in,I have not driven the truck yet,as it is going on the trailer back to paint shop to have the bed installed.We will see