Need help with my steering column

[drewbert41]

When I push on the cup with my fingers it makes a clicking noise like it should but when I put the cap on it will not stay and does not make contact with anything.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by drewbert41

I have looked all over the web for the horn button cup and all things I can find say they are the same for 60-72

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=437708

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=614258

LockDoc

[drewbert41]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=437708

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=614258

LockDoc

Thanks again Leon. A lot of misinformation out there on this subject.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by drewbert41

Thanks again Leon. A lot of misinformation out there on this subject.

No problem. I ran into the same thing a few years ago so I knew there was a difference.

LockDoc

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by Dagr8npwrfloz

As I understand it the little red hazard button was 68 only.

From what I understand the red hazard button is for non-tilt steering wheels, not 68 only.

That said, mine has the black button instead, which is supposed to be for tilt. I was told it's wrong. Can anyone confirm?

[FlounderGDI]

One thing I always forget about when I reinstall my steering wheel and horn button... I have to clock the cup so the cutout lines up to the key on the horn button... My horn button won't stay on if my cup has the notch in any position other than the 12 o'clock position (with the steering wheel straight)

In your picture your wheel is right but the horn cup looks like it needs to turn 120 degrees to put the cup notch at the top then you'd press on the horn button with the notch at the top too.

Originally Posted by drewbert41

When I push on the cup with my fingers it makes a clicking noise like it should but when I put the cap on it will not stay and does not make contact with anything.

[webfoot]

FWIW - that "pressure plate" you speak of is for the locking columns with the in-column ignition switch, which GM began using in cars starting in 1969, and in trucks starting in 1973.

This paper shows exploded diagrams of a 68 GTO steering column but the parts are similar if not the same other than the steering wheel.

http://thefirstgensite.com/library/6.../steering.html

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Question, dumb perhaps...........Is the button in the canceling cam for the horn?

[drewbert41]

Originally Posted by FlounderGDI

One thing I always forget about when I reinstall my steering wheel and horn button... I have to clock the cup so the cutout lines up to the key on the horn button... My horn button won't stay on if my cup has the notch in any position other than the 12 o'clock position (with the steering wheel straight)

In your picture your wheel is right but the horn cup looks like it needs to turn 120 degrees to put the cup notch at the top then you'd press on the horn button with the notch at the top too.

Thanks, I will make sure to do that when I get the right sized cup. No contact is made at all right now because mine is too short.

[drewbert41]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

Question, dumb perhaps...........Is the button in the canceling cam for the horn?

Red Hazard button is part of the turn signal switch I bought from GMC Paul.

[drewbert41]

Originally Posted by webfoot

FWIW - that "pressure plate" you speak of is for the locking columns with the in-column ignition switch, which GM began using in cars starting in 1969, and in trucks starting in 1973.

This paper shows exploded diagrams of a 68 GTO steering column but the parts are similar if not the same other than the steering wheel.

http://thefirstgensite.com/library/6.../steering.html

Really glad I dont have to deal with one of those!

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

These posts are real helpful. I pulled the cap off my 72 to check positioning of the spring loaded pin/button on the canceling cam was located. Like my 71 it's at 10 o-clock. So I put it back together and no horn. It's a new truck to me, and I dumb neglected to see if it worked in the first place. Don't know if cleaning the top of the rim in the steering wheel was it, but now it's working.

Like Doc mentioned, that disk isn't flat. The "dome" side faces rear of the truck. The slot in the retainer faces up to attach the button. If you have the right cup and it's still not working, try backing off the screws a hair, might help.

That canceling cam do two different things? One cancel the turn signal and two make contact for horn operation? Guess I'm wondering what the spring loaded pin that contacts the metal disk is used for.

[webfoot]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

That canceling cam do two different things? One cancel the turn signal and two make contact for horn operation? Guess I'm wondering what the spring loaded pin that contacts the metal disk is used for.

The cancelling cam also has the horn contact in it, the ground is complete when the horn button is depressed. The turn signal switch has a button in it as well for horn grounding.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by webfoot

The cancelling cam also has the horn contact in it, the ground is complete when the horn button is depressed. The turn signal switch has a button in it as well for horn grounding.

Just what I was looking for. Thanks a bunch Web.