Any of you 4x4 guys done the Caddy swap? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

jamesjones · 03-09-2004, 11:30 PM

I'm mulling over an engine for my desert running k5 and the more I read up about the caddy the more I like it. Has anyone done this swap in a 4x4 yet? How did you hook up your tcase to the caddy transmission? Should I trash the idea and just stroke my 350? Any info is much appreciated.

Thanks
James

smokekiki · 03-10-2004, 10:29 AM

Use a 400th out of a 4x4 and the proper adapter and transfer case for the 400.Check Longhorn Mans web site.I think he has a link to a place that has a lot of caddy parts and info.

jeffspower · 03-10-2004, 11:16 PM

They are really tight in '67-72 4x4's. you have to cut out a portion of the firewall between the brake booster & gas pedal, then fab up some metal to create a "pocket" for the cylinder head/valve cover/exhaust manifold. The factory engine crossmember can be used if you use an 'Eldo rear sump pan. '75 style Cad mounts work good with some simple to make mount brackets you can bolt in. The frame rails & forward crossmember will not need any clearancing if done right. I have ran the snot out of my '72 for years at mud drags & truck pulls using the original th-350 with a cheap adapter plate. Plenty of look-think-look & think some more will be needed to make it look nice. A body lift will make it MUCH easier.

500's go in '73-up 2wds very easy. You need to beat the firewall to floor lip flush on the driver's side. Use the mid-sump pan & tube off a '77-up 425. Or better yet, the rear sump Eldo pan & tube. I make BOLT-IN motor mount plates for this combo. They use 425 mounts & brackets. NO drilling, cutting or butchering needed. $50. They put the engine where it belongs- not too high or low.

'73-up 4wds need the same work at the firewall. The existing engine crossmember does not work worth a damn, It will look cobbled no matter how you do it. I build a new crossmember for this setup. Uses rwd 500 mounts. $175. You will need to drill 4 holes in the frame. Also puts the engine where it belongs.

If thought out & done properly, It will look damn near like a factory install!

Twan013 · 03-16-2004, 09:36 PM

jamesjones, get over here and have sex with charles murphy... i'm rick james, b***h!

anyway... what exactly are you talking about the caddy swap?? looking at the subject, I thought it was the headlight conversion... but are you talking about using the engine?? will this work only for the k5 blazers? what are the advantages? how much more power? how much work would it be to put in a 95-ish k1500??

jamesjones · 03-16-2004, 10:30 PM

I'm talking about using a big block engine from the caddy family (425, 472, 500). It's not just for K5's. The advantage is that it's almost as light as a small block chevy and stock it puts out about 300 horses and 400 ft/lbs of torque at very low rpms. As far as swapping one into a newer truck, I'm sure it can be done but It's probably more of a hassle than it's worth. If I were you I'd look more towards either an LQ4 or LQ9 6.0 from an '01 or newer 2500, H2, Yukon, Tahoe, Escalade. Those bad boys can crank out some serious power.

ALASKA ALUMINUM BEAR · 03-18-2004, 04:14 PM

HI GUY

DROP THE CADY IDEA---YOU'LL HATE YOUSELF FOR IT 2 DAYS IN----

STROKE YOUR 350 TO A 383---AND GO WITH A ROLLER CAM AND MPFI---AND YOU'LL COME AWAY WITH 425 WILD PONIES WITH 465 LBS OF TORQUE...

I'LL GET YOU A HOLLEY ADD THAT SHOWS YOU WHAT PARTS TO USE IF YOU'S LIKE...JUST LET ME KNOW..

BUT GO STROKER FOR SURE....

GOOD LUCK

THE ALASKA ALUMINUM BEAR

jamesjones · 03-18-2004, 04:57 PM

Let me take a look at that add. I'm interested in any options available.

ALASKA ALUMINUM BEAR · 03-18-2004, 06:46 PM

MR JAMES---I NEED A GOOD E-MAIL ADRESS TO SEND THE ADD---IT's A LITTLE LARGE AND CANNOT DOWN LOAD IT HERE ON THIS SITE----MINE IS BELOW SEND YOURs TO ME HERE--

jpezzenti@ptialaska.net

ALASKA ALUMINUM BEAR

jollyroger · 03-19-2004, 10:55 AM

The caddy engine is hard to beat. Yes, it is light. yes, you can use stock stuff and have one torquer engine. Beware the 70 500 has 10 to 1 compression stock. 93 octane is a must. Hard to beat grunt out of the box. no stroker cranks or special components. It is already engineered by GM. BOP 400 will bolt up. The tailshaft for a transfer case will work. Wazoo of torque down low where you want it. I have a 472 sitting on the floor waiting for the right excuse to use it.

03-09-2004, 11:30 PM	#1
jamesjones Freakin Awesome! Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: San Diego Posts: 482	Any of you 4x4 guys done the Caddy swap? I'm mulling over an engine for my desert running k5 and the more I read up about the caddy the more I like it. Has anyone done this swap in a 4x4 yet? How did you hook up your tcase to the caddy transmission? Should I trash the idea and just stroke my 350? Any info is much appreciated. Thanks James __________________ 1972 K5 Blazer - LQ4/TH350/NP205 - Long Travel Suspension - Hooptee

03-10-2004, 10:29 AM	#2
smokekiki Mike Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: west chester pa Posts: 2,473	Use a 400th out of a 4x4 and the proper adapter and transfer case for the 400.Check Longhorn Mans web site.I think he has a link to a place that has a lot of caddy parts and info. __________________ 70'c/10, 71 suburban4x4 402bb, 72suburban 4/6 drop, 72k/5 4x4 blazer 4" lift 35 tires

03-16-2004, 10:30 PM	#5
jamesjones Freakin Awesome! Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: San Diego Posts: 482	I'm talking about using a big block engine from the caddy family (425, 472, 500). It's not just for K5's. The advantage is that it's almost as light as a small block chevy and stock it puts out about 300 horses and 400 ft/lbs of torque at very low rpms. As far as swapping one into a newer truck, I'm sure it can be done but It's probably more of a hassle than it's worth. If I were you I'd look more towards either an LQ4 or LQ9 6.0 from an '01 or newer 2500, H2, Yukon, Tahoe, Escalade. Those bad boys can crank out some serious power. __________________ 1972 K5 Blazer - LQ4/TH350/NP205 - Long Travel Suspension - Hooptee

03-18-2004, 04:14 PM	#6
ALASKA ALUMINUM BEAR Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Posts: 129	STROKER HI GUY DROP THE CADY IDEA---YOU'LL HATE YOUSELF FOR IT 2 DAYS IN---- STROKE YOUR 350 TO A 383---AND GO WITH A ROLLER CAM AND MPFI---AND YOU'LL COME AWAY WITH 425 WILD PONIES WITH 465 LBS OF TORQUE... I'LL GET YOU A HOLLEY ADD THAT SHOWS YOU WHAT PARTS TO USE IF YOU'S LIKE...JUST LET ME KNOW.. BUT GO STROKER FOR SURE.... GOOD LUCK THE ALASKA ALUMINUM BEAR

03-18-2004, 04:57 PM	#7
jamesjones Freakin Awesome! Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: San Diego Posts: 482	Let me take a look at that add. I'm interested in any options available. __________________ 1972 K5 Blazer - LQ4/TH350/NP205 - Long Travel Suspension - Hooptee

03-10-2004, 11:16 PM	#3
jeffspower Well, Whoop-dee-do! Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Easton, Mo. pop.- me & scarcely a few others Posts: 2,302	They are really tight in '67-72 4x4's. you have to cut out a portion of the firewall between the brake booster & gas pedal, then fab up some metal to create a "pocket" for the cylinder head/valve cover/exhaust manifold. The factory engine crossmember can be used if you use an 'Eldo rear sump pan. '75 style Cad mounts work good with some simple to make mount brackets you can bolt in. The frame rails & forward crossmember will not need any clearancing if done right. I have ran the snot out of my '72 for years at mud drags & truck pulls using the original th-350 with a cheap adapter plate. Plenty of look-think-look & think some more will be needed to make it look nice. A body lift will make it MUCH easier. 500's go in '73-up 2wds very easy. You need to beat the firewall to floor lip flush on the driver's side. Use the mid-sump pan & tube off a '77-up 425. Or better yet, the rear sump Eldo pan & tube. I make BOLT-IN motor mount plates for this combo. They use 425 mounts & brackets. NO drilling, cutting or butchering needed. $50. They put the engine where it belongs- not too high or low. '73-up 4wds need the same work at the firewall. The existing engine crossmember does not work worth a damn, It will look cobbled no matter how you do it. I build a new crossmember for this setup. Uses rwd 500 mounts. $175. You will need to drill 4 holes in the frame. Also puts the engine where it belongs. If thought out & done properly, It will look damn near like a factory install!

03-16-2004, 09:36 PM	#4
Twan013 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Jasper, AL Posts: 9	jamesjones, get over here and have sex with charles murphy... i'm rick james, b***h! anyway... what exactly are you talking about the caddy swap?? looking at the subject, I thought it was the headlight conversion... but are you talking about using the engine?? will this work only for the k5 blazers? what are the advantages? how much more power? how much work would it be to put in a 95-ish k1500??

03-18-2004, 06:46 PM	#8
ALASKA ALUMINUM BEAR Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Posts: 129	MR JAMES---I NEED A GOOD E-MAIL ADRESS TO SEND THE ADD---IT's A LITTLE LARGE AND CANNOT DOWN LOAD IT HERE ON THIS SITE----MINE IS BELOW SEND YOURs TO ME HERE-- jpezzenti@ptialaska.net ALASKA ALUMINUM BEAR Last edited by ALASKA ALUMINUM BEAR; 03-18-2004 at 06:50 PM.

03-19-2004, 10:55 AM	#9
jollyroger Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: houston Texas Posts: 35	The caddy engine is hard to beat. Yes, it is light. yes, you can use stock stuff and have one torquer engine. Beware the 70 500 has 10 to 1 compression stock. 93 octane is a must. Hard to beat grunt out of the box. no stroker cranks or special components. It is already engineered by GM. BOP 400 will bolt up. The tailshaft for a transfer case will work. Wazoo of torque down low where you want it. I have a 472 sitting on the floor waiting for the right excuse to use it.

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