05-12-2014, 02:55 PM | #26 |
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Re: Haybarn 66 c10
Not yet, I've mainly been hunting and locating parts and pieces.
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05-12-2014, 11:29 PM | #27 |
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Re: Haybarn 66 c10
Nice 6 cylinder! Looks to be a 250 outta a 70's truck?
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05-13-2014, 11:04 AM | #28 |
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Re: Haybarn 66 c10
Thanks, I bought it from a guy who pulled it from a 68 C10 he was doing a V8/automatic swap on. Looks like a fairly fresh motor.
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08-07-2014, 10:34 PM | #29 |
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Re: Haybarn 66 c10
Ok, I've done a little work on my project, mostly cleaning and gathering parts. The 250 is cleaned and reassembled(mostly). I've got 5" drop springs on the way for the rear and I'm planning on 2" springs and 2 1/2" drop spindles in the front. A friend of mine has a 72 5 lug rearend and a set of A arms and disk brakes for the front. I spoke to a tech from CCP and he's telling me to use 71-72 drop spindles, the A arms from the 72 or at least install 71- 72 ball joints, 71-72 outer tie rod ends, and CP4SC-S4 tie rod sleeves. Does anyone know if I have to use the CCP tie rod sleeves or if I can just use stock ones from a 73 and up? I'm planning on using the rotors, calipers, bearings,(if in working order) from the 72. I've done some research and this looks like it should work. Any input would be appreciated, thanks!
Last edited by Jgowin; 08-07-2014 at 10:48 PM. |
08-07-2014, 10:48 PM | #30 |
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Re: Haybarn 66 c10
Glad to see it's safely home and receiving some attention. That's a nice looking truck and things can happen to long storage vehicles in a barn. I'm glad nothing did!
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08-09-2014, 09:22 PM | #31 |
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Re: Haybarn 66 c10
I did same disc swap on a 66 used 72 spindles kept 66 a-arms used 72 ball joints had center link retapered for 72 inner tie rods worked great
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08-09-2014, 09:40 PM | #32 |
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Re: Haybarn 66 c10
A question for you step side guys. Does anyone make a step side rear fender without the spare tire dimple?
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08-10-2014, 12:22 AM | #33 | |
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Re: Haybarn 66 c10
You can use the '71-'72 spindles with your original control arms. You just have to change the ball joints to the '71-'72 pieces. The '71-'72 uper or lower (I don't remember which) is specific to those 2 years only. If you change to the entire '71-'72 steering linkage you don't need any special tierod sleeves. In doing this you will need to drill holes for the new idler arm once you position it correctly. Or you could also do as lobuck64 did and open up the taper in the draglink. Of course you need the correct tapered reamer for that.
I will add that this will also work for the '73-'87 spindles, steering, etc. Quote:
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08-10-2014, 08:13 AM | #34 | |
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Re: Haybarn 66 c10
Quote:
Supporting Vendors & Suspension Marketplace Be sure to stop by the Vendors Marketplace from time to time, as the Supporting Vendors(scroll down to see 'em) have sales on items, new product offerings... or sometimes they ask for advice about products they are considering producing. also,explore your 60-66 FAQ Index, for lots of articles and threads about our trucks and their components, written by your fellow forum members. -W |
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09-11-2014, 12:57 AM | #35 |
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Re: Haybarn 66 c10
Thanks for the replies, also thanks for the input, and sorry I hadn't replied sooner. With school starting back I figured I'd had more time for my projects. But with both the boys in fall sports and scouts I've been covered up. My drop spindles have come in been painted and I exchanged my original brake rebuild parts for new front calipers and dual circuit master cylinder. I ordered adapter tie rod sleeves and waiting for them to come in. When I got my A arms and disc brake donor parts the 72 drag link and tie rods had already picked. I cleaned, painted, and turned the original rotors. But as of right now all I have is a large pile of new parts I've got to get put on. On another note what proportional/combination valve do you guys suggest, I've looked on ebay and seen a couple that already have the small lines pre bent.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevrolet-GM...f2d079&vxp=mtr |
10-19-2014, 11:40 PM | #36 |
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Re: Haybarn 66 c10
Finally put my drop spindles, cut springs, and rear drop springs on this weekend. Still have to put on my master cylinder and do the plumbing. I ordered an adjustable panhard bar, I was amazed how much the rearend shifted from the 5inch drop springs. The only 5lug stuff I had was 31/10.50s on some old wagon wheels. I was hoping to find some used 15s figure out what size I wanted to buy and use for rollers but my local tire shops don't have anything in the sizes I need. I'm thinking about 225-70-r15s on stock rims. |
05-30-2016, 12:56 PM | #37 |
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Re: Haybarn 66 c10
My orange door, pulled it off and hit with purple power and stripped the paint off. Door ended up being blue underneath.
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05-30-2016, 01:01 PM | #38 |
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Re: Haybarn 66 c10
Trying my hand at faux patina
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05-30-2016, 01:04 PM | #39 |
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Re: Haybarn 66 c10
Before and after
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05-30-2016, 01:09 PM | #40 |
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Re: Haybarn 66 c10
Nice work, you would never know that was the same door.
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05-31-2016, 07:45 AM | #41 |
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Re: Haybarn 66 c10
Thanks! I looked for a while for a original paint door and ended up going this route. It's not original but looks a lot better than the ORANGE door.
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11-22-2016, 05:07 PM | #42 |
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Re: Haybarn 66 c10
It's been a while since I've updated, I've cleaned and touched up my paint, painted my wheels and added hub caps, replaced the wood bed, and just drove it to the muffler and alignment shop.
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11-23-2016, 10:21 PM | #43 |
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Re: Haybarn 66 c10
Exhaust and alignment done, I've still got some small stuff to do but I've actually got to drive it!
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11-23-2016, 10:23 PM | #44 |
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Re: Haybarn 66 c10
Looks good .
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11-23-2016, 11:00 PM | #45 |
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Re: Haybarn 66 c10
Nice!
Paint the grill and bumper flat white? |
11-23-2016, 11:51 PM | #46 |
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Re: Haybarn 66 c10
looking good ...
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11-24-2016, 07:51 PM | #47 |
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Re: Haybarn 66 c10
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11-24-2016, 07:53 PM | #48 |
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Re: Haybarn 66 c10
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11-24-2016, 07:54 PM | #49 |
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Re: Haybarn 66 c10
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