Need help with trams line and exhaust

[Woodnears]

I'm in the middle of my build and I am fighting the trans line to radiator. I've got an entropy radiator and a ls/4l60e combo. I recently ordered stock trans lines from a 2002. They hookup in stock format to the passenger side of radiator apparently. My entropy radiator hookups are on drivers side. I thought about bending and splicing in a AN6 hard tube fitting. The problem I have is my 3/8 stock lines are measuring at .393 rather than .375. Does anyone have an AN6 fitting they can measure the Ferrell and let me know if I'm alright? Any other ideas are welcome of course. I'm not opposed to running all braided stainless either. I'm just not sure the AN fittings at the trans will clear the cab or not.

Can someone please school me on exhaust setup. My truck is a full Porterbuilt extreme. I'm just not sure what I should expect for exhaust routing. Here's not much room.

[mike16]

external tranny cooler. run hoses rather than hard lines

[Gromit]

$99 for the lines and $48 for the cooler - no risk of radiator coolant getting into your transmission - or transmission fluid getting into your cooling system..

The photo of the lines was an HTM file not sure if it will upload on this forum so here is the link to that:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/add-23-1501

[Gromit]

Oh wait; here's the photo of the lines.. but check the description for the right style for your trans..

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by Gromit

Oh wait; here's the photo of the lines.. but check the description for the right style for your trans..

How'd these work out for you?

[LostMy65]

Funny thing about your link to the lines.
When the page first opens, it lists $99, but then as the page finishes loading it changes to $119.
That's quite a price bump.

[Gromit]

Worked out good for me; I have the TH350 and the 290HP motor.. Though I'm not exactly putting the transmission cooling system through any kind of stress test..

My use is drive three or five miles, then put the truck away for a month or two, then drive five miles again - etc.

If I were using this for a daily driver, I would still try to go with a totally separate (from the ethylene glycol part of the radiator) transmission cooler - but I think that a transmission temperature gauge (like the one made by Derale) installed in the 1/8 NPT threads of a drain plug in the trans pan would be prudent... just to keep an eye on things.

Though I am in SoCal, where there is no need for the heating function that in colder climates GM designed in and probably works very well. In other words the radiator coolant (ethylene glycol) heats up the transmission fluid (Dexron) and that was how GM designed it..

But to me and in my climate the risk of mixing coolant and trans fluid between motor and trans is not worth the slight advantage in cold weather of heating up the trans faster. So I chose to just use this separate cooler. not sure if it will work in your area or in your application, that is up to you of course.

Photo attached of drain plug kit - once you have that in you can install the Derale gauge sensor there..

[Gromit]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

Funny thing about your link to the lines.
When the page first opens, it lists $99, but then as the page finishes loading it changes to $119.
That's quite a price bump.

Inflation... this post was from way back when..

One thing I hate about getting old - prices become really shocking - I was buying a jar of peanut butter and it was almost $7 and if the checkout gal wasn't so purty I might have complained.

[darrellyates]

I used flex lines on my last 4L60E, and will do the same on the new build. I started with hard lines, bent to fit. Of course, one split and blew fluid everywhere, and I used a rubber line to repair it. The rubber hose ran for about 2 years before I got the braided stainless on to replace both lines. I had no clearance issues with mine, just converted the push on connectors to -6AN, and the same at the radiator, think it was 3/8 to -6 as well. Worked for years with no problem. Just remember I was running a stock 5.3, and it was a driver, no racing. The new engine is the 6.2, but again I won't be racing so I'm sure the braided lines will work excellent.

On my truck at least, there is enough clearance you could go over the transmission if you wanted to get to the drivers side of the vehicle. Unless you're running a different (lower) cab setup, I don't think you'll have any problems routing the lines on either side. I think I'd cross the transmission and run up the frame rail on the drivers side, or do a hard line across/under the radiator support? Maybe on the front side? You could also run a separate cooler up there if you so desire.

With regards to exhaust? I didn't have any trouble staying above the exhaust and used a clamp on the frame where the lines turned and ran up front. My headers on both engines come down far enough that if you stay relatively close to the cab floor, you'll have plenty of clearance.

I am sure you'll figure it out.

Good Luck!!

[darrellyates]

Sorry on exhaust, thought you meant for the lines. Joe @ Ross Restorations in Thompson Station did an Extreme Porterbuilt... I think he had to exit in front of the rear tires, although I don't remember for sure. You can call and ask for Joe at 615-591-0105. I think the truck is still in his shop. Guys at Porterbuilt should be able to help as well. They do these all the time. Again, sorry, I was just thinking of the trans lines. You might see if Joe has a picture up on the Ross Restorations website. You could google Ross Restorations, Thompson Station TN and I'm sure it will come up. He's on Facebook too.

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by Gromit

Inflation... this post was from way back when..

One thing I hate about getting old - prices become really shocking - I was buying a jar of peanut butter and it was almost $7 and if the checkout gal wasn't so purty I might have complained.

Yeah I think we'll see more of this.

For these lines:
5 months later and it went from 99 to 119.
I guess I had better buy them now because they'll be 139 by next month.

.
I've also been considering adding a temperature gage, so thanks for the recommendation for the Derale gauge.

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by darrellyates

I used flex lines on my last 4L60E, and will do the same on the new build. I started with hard lines, bent to fit. Of course, one split and blew fluid everywhere, and I used a rubber line to repair it. The rubber hose ran for about 2 years before I got the braided stainless on to replace both lines. I had no clearance issues with mine, just converted the push on connectors to -6AN, and the same at the radiator, think it was 3/8 to -6 as well. Worked for years with no problem. Just remember I was running a stock 5.3, and it was a driver, no racing. The new engine is the 6.2, but again I won't be racing so I'm sure the braided lines will work excellent.

Thanks