1967 Shop truck from a beater [build ]

[tutone]

Guys, I let my 72 swb Ochre truck go last fall and just couldn't stand it any more. I picked up a decently solid 67 long bed off the local want ads last week and to my surprise, it is really a good starter truck. Plans are to cut her down to a short bed , [it's a wood bed model], and do something about the crappy revamped interior, and lay down a satin GM indigo blue paint job on it. Its a later model 350 and factory 3 spd on the column, which I love. Hang in there for the progress will be slow but I will post pics on the progress as I go.

[b.sharp]

I wish I had known you were going to sell the orchra and white72 truck. I really liked it. Good luck on this next one. I have 4 parts trucks if you find something you need, yell at me.

[67ChevyRedneck]

I think your camera was drunk...

Love the plans, I had a 00 Z71 that was indigo blue metallic that I drove for 11 years before trading it for a 2015, loved that truck. GREAT color.

[tutone]

Sorry about the fuzzy photos, but its sort of makes the truck look better. Inner rockers and cab corners. a little on the leading edge of the hood and that's about it for rust. The Ochre and white truck is in Nashville Tn and the fellow did a wheel swap and it looks even better. Glad it went to a good home, where it retained most of it's original look. Once I get the body work under control, I will decide on body molding. What is a good source on that? Don't know if there is anybody out there making a good fitting stainless trim.

[tutone]

Spent some time this weekend prepping and smoothing for the teardown. Got the truck a little more presentable, as it is a bit ugly. Cleaned the paint off the spid to reveal the options. nothing too surprising. Paint 520 which is a 68 code of light yellow but underneath the layers, it is light yellow. HD clutch, panoramic rear glass, Drivers side rear view mirror and what appears to be side trim *****. cant read the code or the last word. A couple of others did not fare well thru the paint. Anyway, it is a dream to drive and I cant wait for good weather. I will leave you all with a couple of shots before I get started.

[Orange67]

I'm in

[Jason7121]

Nice truck to start with. Mar-k makes some really nice stainless trim made here in the u.s

[68Gold/white]

Originally Posted by Jason7121

Nice truck to start with. Mar-k makes some really nice stainless trim made here in the u.s

Made in Oklahoma City!

Looking forward to your work!

[tutone]

Ok, I told you this would be slow. Got rid of the nasty bed liner in the truck and found the wood all but gone, but the bottom lips and tubs are in great shape. should shorten nicely without a ton of repair work. Spent some time getting the bed off and checking out my frame. I am going to use the frame stiffeners from Early Classic Industries for this job. As you see in the pic, my soapstone mark is in the center of the rear cab mount and 12 1/8 " behind that. This way the cab can be jacked up out of the way and supported while I loosen and remove the rear cross member. After it is moved forward and secured, I will make my rear cut first. I will then plug weld for the time being, both frame stiffeners in the rear frame rails. When that is done, I will remove the rear cab mounts and slide the rear frame into the front rails where I cut in the middle of the mount, leaving my front holes for reference. Drill through the stiffener after clamping and squaring. and bolt the cab mount on the front and mark and drill for the rear holes. Re move and weld my 1/8" gap , grind and clean the weld then mount the rear cab mount. Weld the stiffeners inside the inner frame. I am hoping that a good weld and the fact that the cab mount straddles the weld, will add strength to the process. I will take pictures as I go.

[hewittca]

I think that approach to shortening the frame will be plenty strong. There are several guys (including myself) who have done similar straight cut frame shortening conversions with no issues, as long as you have good welds and box the frame or add the stiffeners like you're doing.

[slamgears]

Cool Cool, I made my cuts last night, same deal as far as straight cuts but I went behind the cab mount. I'll update my thread when I get a second. Works been too insane today to have time to add pics.

[tutone]

Got the bed mostly apart over the last couple of days. Really nice shape. The passenger bed side had been replaced many moons ago with a side from an original GM truck. I think maybe at the time of that fiasco, they must have filled in the trim holes every where. My method od tearing it apart was to leave the cross braces tethered with the old strips. easier to store for now. A little rust through on the rear cross sill and one place on a fender lip. These should shorten nicely. Here are some pictures of the 3 hour job.

[tutone]

Some more. Going to cut the frame before I tackle the bed . Super Chevy is next weekend near me, so I will have to go get some parts.

[tutone]

Stored the bed and removed the rear HD leaf springs and spare tire carrier and gave the rear its haircut. Also removed the front bed mount while I was at it. Waiting for the frame stiffeners to make the cut. Maybe in and out of the shop in 24 hrs. when I get around to it We will see.

[tutone]

Well, this build has taken a turn. I picked up an original short bed frame over the weekend at a steal of a price, so I will start the swap over on it rather than cutting this one down right away. I still intend to shorten this frame and have it in reserve. Anyway, I will post pics of the frame build up soon. Nothing at all fancy , just a little cleanup and gas tank relocation.

[tutone]

Got my short frame home, still on the trailer. Not sure if I am going to go with my original plans and hang on to this one for later. It has had a little header clearance cutting on it that I'm gonna have to fix, but all in all it was a good buy. It came with a 5 lug rear and I will most likely transplant a disc brake setup under the front while I am at it. I like the six lug on the 67 especially since the brakes work great and the front end is super tight.

[tutone]

Decided to save the short bed frame for a 5 lug build later. Pulled the long bed in last night and dropped the exhaust and drive shaft. Cut the frame under the cab and used the frame stiffeners from Early Classic as a slide in fit. Went smooth as silk today Here is a play by play in pictures,

[tutone]

More, decided not to move the X member. Way too many rivets. Cut it at the 21 1/4 " mark and left a good eighth inch for a really good weld on the frame. May add some 1/2" bolts to either side of the brace after I get it rolling, but it looks as though it is not going any where. I used the two old rear body mount holes to plug weld my stiffener in place. I just relocated my body mounts where they should be on a shortie.

[tutone]

Ok, got an early start this morning, as my goal was to have it back in one piece before having to stop to get ready for church. Made it. with the plates in go ahead and cut 2 inches off the drivers side and 3 inches off the pass side. That clears your x member on your cab rear and starts one in the front frame before the other goes in. May not be as important if you have help, but I am doing this all by myself so I had to be resourceful. Once you start the to slides in the frame, set up your floor jack right below the driveshaft opening in the x member. Get a wood block and beat it on in some. I took a come-along and wrapped the rear frame with a point on the front to keep good tension. Five minutes and it was back together. Lowered the cab a little and started the cab mount bolts and measured a few points and compared them to my short bed frame. Perfect. Going to weld it up after while and start putting it back together.

[tutone]

No pictures on this, but got my driveshaft done. Instead of trying to locate a one piece, I shortened the two piece that was in it. The front section yoke end was factory machined a good full 1/16" out of center but not in a way to cause trouble with run out. My total run out as best as I could measure it was about .007. I think that will work. I did drive it around the block and it seemed fine. Located my bed wood and fixing to order new strips. I will post pics as I go on the next step.

[tutone]

well today is bed side day, or bed side cut day to be precise. The pics tell the story. Backed the 4 wheeler in at 10:13 and took the pic of the tacked together side at 12:31 even after stopping for a bite.

[tutone]

More......
The side looks good for what it is, not a lot of metal work to do and its a shop truck anyway. Gotta get back to work.

[tutone]

After lunch some middle stake pocket removal and laid it up against its intended victim. I'm not going to post pics of the other side because it is the exact same method. I used a dewalt side grinder with a 6" metal cutoff blade for all the cuts. It being a 67 there is no need to sharpen off the point in front of the rear wheel. I hope this helps someone to cut one up. When I get the bed together and more rigid, I will weld and grind the seams.

[NewType72]

Looks like some very solid progress tutone! Frame stiffener looks awesome in there as well.

[tutone]

Originally Posted by NewType72

Looks like some very solid progress tutone! Frame stiffener looks awesome in there as well.

Thanks for the accolades. It is hard to get motivated, but once I see some progress, it gets easier. Stopped for dinner and now headed out there to tack the other side together. I made the cuts earlier. Here is a trick I learned in 1980 from my trade school body shop teacher. I failed to show it on the first run of pictures. When you get your 12" and 8" cut made on the outer skin, slice your top bedrail and remove the skin exposing the inner bed side. Take a piece of masking tape and straightedge and mark your inner skin. Lay your tape down and shoot a dab of spray bomb. white works better than black, and take your tape off. It leaves a straight edge to follow with your cut and you wont have big gaps to fill in when you weld it up.