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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Vancouver, Washington
Posts: 430
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Re: 1972 Build thread.
Thank you, I was trying to figure out a slick way to mount a USB rapid charging port that wasn't a 12v socket plug in the cigarette lighter socket.
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Vancouver, Washington
Posts: 430
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Re: 1972 Build thread.
Installed the early style e-Brake lever tonight. I need to massage the cover a bit, it needs to be wet sanded and rubbed out... along with the rest of the paint. I honestly thought about getting a personalized license plate that reads "ORG-PEEL". Anyways, I shimmed the handle so that is was more horizontal compared to the bottom of the dash. Not shimming it allows the handle to hang down away from the dash and hit the speaker when fully disengaged.
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![]() Last edited by Spf79; 01-05-2024 at 04:15 AM. |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: PNW
Posts: 3,659
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Re: 1972 Build thread.
Great truck. Good that you get back on the build when you can. I bet you'll love it when it's done. The orange is cool. Always like to see trucks go back to their original color too.
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#4 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Vancouver, Washington
Posts: 430
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Re: 1972 Build thread.
Quote:
I'm getting closer daily, feels good to get back into a groove on it. Almost finished the door assembly, the window felts were a nightmare, had to cut them down to fit. Lots of blue tape. ![]()
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Md
Posts: 2,485
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Re: 1972 Build thread.
Looking great, all your dark saddle pieces match pretty well, did you paint the dash pad? Any idea what your upolstry people used material wise? Is it available? brand? Color?
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http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=635605 |
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#6 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Vancouver, Washington
Posts: 430
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Re: 1972 Build thread.
Quote:
I wanted dark saddle everything, but usually you get dark brown, brown or a different tinge of dark saddle whenever you order something online. I went to Top Flight Automotive and ordered their corvette dark saddle vinyl paint and painted door panels, dash pads, boots and anything else that it worked on. I also took that vinyl paint/dye and had some auto paint matched from it. I painted the column, and all interior seat brackets with this and then clear coated everything. Fyi, Rustoleum crystal clear paint was far superior to the expensive auto paint I had purchased. The carpet is ACC dark saddle, and the seat material is 72 dark saddle from SMS auto fabrics in Canby, OR. Sadly, the seat belts I ordered do not match very well... not sure what the plan there is yet. I didn't want to try and refurbish old belts, or pay for it to be done so the options are not great.
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Vancouver, Washington
Posts: 430
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Re: 1972 Build thread.
I am wrapping up some engine compartment items before I add the front clip.
I purchased a larger booster/master cylinder set up from a local vendor, and it did not cross my mind that my support brackets coming off of the booster and master cylinder would no longer fit. Is there a consensus that we actually need these brackets?
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#8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Md
Posts: 2,485
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Re: 1972 Build thread.
Thanks for the reply, ...Well the effort has paid off. Best compliment I can give is I am going to try and copy some of what you have done.....I also went with a bigger booster same problem, I think there might be a brace for the 3/4 ton trucks. I cut a 2" piece of stainless 1x1 tubing, polished and attached under lower brace at the firewall, with longer bolt, not the best solution. But not in a place you can see too well.
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http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=635605 |
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#9 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Vancouver, Washington
Posts: 430
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Re: 1972 Build thread.
Quote:
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#10 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Vancouver, Washington
Posts: 430
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Re: 1972 Build thread.
Wiring...
Almost finished with my engine compartment, I integrated the MSD and double checked all of the other connections. I have a few grounds to add, and some heat wrap to apply on the main harness running behind the engine. Tranny cooler lines are installed finally, and I need to finish the fuel line to the carb. Tomorrow I need to finish up the stereo wiring that will be hidden behind the rear side panels. After that I feel good about testing everything with both batteries installed. Praying for no fires. Lol. Sorry about the upside down & sideways pictures.
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![]() Last edited by Spf79; 01-21-2024 at 01:45 PM. |
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#11 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Vancouver, Washington
Posts: 430
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Re: 1972 Build thread.
Purchased a 12" slim subwoofer.
I'll build a box on the backside of the side panel. Here are a couple of examples I am looking at.
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![]() Last edited by Spf79; 01-28-2024 at 04:59 AM. |
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#12 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Vancouver, Washington
Posts: 430
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Re: 1972 Build thread.
Never enough time in the day.
I was able to set time aside to cut & buff my drivers door and get it bolted on. I'm still drinking with some gap issues. The door is to tight against the body at the jam. There doesn't seem to be any more forward adjustment. Seems odd. I also had to put three shims behind the striker plate on the jam... still catching the door latch funny. Doors are original to the Blazer. At least the passenger side is done.
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#13 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Md
Posts: 2,485
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Re: 1972 Build thread.
You probably have these specs....several posts from "lks dcvn" on Blazer tub, shims and alignment. I don't remember exactly what I did but I had the hard top on, which is supposed to help. Good luck. The devil is in the details.....The measurements are in hundredths, I think, just to add another level of confusion.
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http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=635605 |
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#14 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Vancouver, Washington
Posts: 430
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Re: 1972 Build thread.
Quote:
I have seen one of them, but not the others. Very helpful. I'll do some measurements tonight. One small chip so far... sad face.
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#15 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2022
Location: Oshawa, On. Canada
Posts: 44
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Re: 1972 Build thread.
You may have to add shims in specific locations in your body mounts also, and definitely top bolted on, nice build eh.
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#16 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Vancouver, Washington
Posts: 430
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Re: 1972 Build thread.
Quote:
I don't have a top, so I will have to do my best. ![]()
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#17 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Vancouver, Washington
Posts: 430
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Re: 1972 Build thread.
I started fresh tonight, I had no patience after work yesterday.
The door gaps look better. I need to mess with the body mount shims before the front clip goes on. My female dog ate one of my trim pieces... and I found a small velcro sanding block in my door. I think I can spend days screwing with the gaps, they aren't perfect, but I'm not sure if I can ever consider them "perfect"... the whole process is maddening.
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#18 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Vancouver, Washington
Posts: 430
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Re: 1972 Build thread.
More pics
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#19 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Yuba City, Ca
Posts: 1,969
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Re: 1972 Build thread.
Your gaps look pretty good in my opinion. These trucks weren’t exactly perfect from the factory so gaps can be tough.
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Kirk 72 Blazer CST 4wd highlander |
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#20 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Vancouver, Washington
Posts: 430
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Re: 1972 Build thread.
I made some time this weekend and I am feeling pretty close on the side panels. Since I'm running a 12" sub I am making sure to secure the panels to the bed sides thoroughly.
I'm using 1/4-20 nut inserts, they are working well. I am working on making a cap for the bed rail, similar to the gray interior. I can put some 1/4-20 t-nuts in the wood that will allow me to bolt through the 5/16-18 inserts captured iunder the bed rail. This should give me a nice hidden fastener look. I have to use some fancy flush mount machine screws for the side panels. I am using truck cab dome lights for courtesy lights in the back. This stuff takes forever, the loop carpeting does not like metal shavings from drilling
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#21 |
Carpe manana
![]() ![]() Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Eau Claire, WI
Posts: 12,484
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Re: 1972 Build thread.
Good progress.
Is there a learning curve to installing nutserts or is that pretty straightforward? I need to add these on the roof of my 99 Suburban to install a rack system. Worried I'll bugger it up.
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1972 K5 CST Highlander Blazer: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=708547 1972 K20 Cheyenne Super: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=528308 ![]() |
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#22 |
All stock and staying that way
![]() ![]() Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Elkland, PA
Posts: 2,127
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I installed a nutsert on my RH reproduction bedside on my 1970 Blazer to match the other side. The installation was a breeze. I had never done one before, but it looked exactly like the factory installed one on the drivers side. There are some Youtube videos going over the process/
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1970 K/5 Blazer CST 4WD, TOTM winner December 2024! Medium Bronze poly, 93k ACT. miles, 350, 4 speed, rear positraction, 16.5" x 8.25" HD Kelsey Hayes wheel option, tilt, tach, vacuum, AM/FM, manual throttle...Dad ordered and purchased new 4/70. Currently frame off restoration finally getting close to completion.. ![]() 1970 K20, To be a clone of my Grandfather's K20, Dark Blue poly, 350, 4 speed, 16.5" X 8.25" Kelsey Hayes wheel option, tilt, tach, vacuum, AM radio. Latest project truck 1972 Cheyenne Super 20 2WD, Dark Blue/White, 90K ACT. miles, 402, TH400, 4.10 open, tilt, tach, vacuum, A/C, AM/FM, manual throttle.. A mostly original paint never rusted Texas survivor... ![]() 2017 Sierra 1500 SLT 4WD, Black, 46k miles, 5.3, 6L80E, 3.42 LS, 20" polished wheels, everything but moonroof and 6.2... 2019 Canyon SLT 4WD, White, 67k miles, 3.6, 8L45, 3.23 LS, 18" wheels |
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#23 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Vancouver, Washington
Posts: 430
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Re: 1972 Build thread.
Quote:
No Learning curve at all, and after seeing your level of work, I am sure you will be perfect the first time. ![]() Get a nice step bit, and mark the step you want to stop at with a noticeable color. Stop one step below where you think you need to be, check fitment there. Once you get two or three in, you will be good to go. Maybe practice on a small piece of sheet metal if you are unsure. Once I watched a few videos I was brave enough to do it. ![]() I hope it works out easy for you.
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![]() Last edited by Spf79; 03-18-2024 at 12:04 PM. |
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#24 | |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2022
Location: Illinois
Posts: 238
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Re: 1972 Build thread.
Quote:
I own two rivnut setting tools. The Y shaped one and the red drill setter tool. Both are great and easy. Also the best way to remove a failed rivnut or stripped one is a simple countersink bit. Important!!!!!! Do not use impact drivers on fasteners!!! Use hand tools. You will screw up a rivnut or two. Every time I am in a hurry and fail to follow this advice, I end up screwing up a rivnut or two. https://www.youtube.com/shorts/srzzPJFQGFI |
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#25 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Vancouver, Washington
Posts: 430
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Re: 1972 Build thread.
Quote:
I am using the Y style.
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![]() Last edited by Spf79; 03-18-2024 at 12:07 PM. |
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