Installing Door Glass Thread

[jbgroby]

Ok, Got the drivers side glass and all the parts in with minimal damage to my mind and arms. I wrote up a tutorial with pictures and will attend to make several post to pass on the information to others. I'm not sure this will fit all years as I have a 1960 GMC, but it should work on 60-63.

1960 GMC door glass Step by Step Guide

When installing the door glass, its’ ideal to have at least 1 helper, the job will go quicker and less painful on the knuckles . In reading some of the write ups for installing the glass, it seemed to me that pictures would be helpful as you go step by step. Although I’m no expert and it has been at least 13 years since the truck was together and the various ways she came apart has been lost to memory. In speaking with several members of various chat boards, below is the best way I can come up with to get all the door glass back in.

Step 1: Taping Up the Door
Tape both sides of the door glass opening completely. Make sure NOT to get the tape below the edge of the opening as both the vent window and felt channel will make getting the tape off the door near impossible.

[jbgroby]

Step 2: Door Lock and latch

First, install the outer door handle with the gaskets. Next you need to assemble the door latch onto the door locking mechanism. The clearance is tight but it will go on. Once you have attached these parts together, mount the locking mechanism to the door. At this point you will need to let the silver linage hang down the door or you can rig up a short piece of wire to hang latch from if you don’t want it swinging around.

[jbgroby]

Step 3: Lubrication and Placing Glass

On the bottom of the door glass is the glide channel that the roller use to move the window up and down. You will note that these are those less common clutch head screws, you can change this to Philips head if you want, makes life easier. I greased this channel with lithium grease to help the window mover easier Place the main glass in the bottom of the door, make sure you have it facing the correct way and make sure you grab the correct window.

[jbgroby]

Step 4: Rear Felt Channel

Next you need to install the rear door channel by mounting it to door. BUT before you install the rear door channel in the door, please check to make sure that the small clip at the bottom is in good condition and will allow the metal accordion felt to fit behind it, this is designed to hold the bottom of the accordion felt in place. The rear door channels these are marked ‘L’ and ‘R’. Left = Driver side.

[jbgroby]

Step5: Accordion Felt

Next before you install the metal accordion felt, you’ll need to cut it to approximate length. On my 1960, I needed 54 ¼” long. This will be almost perfect and allow for a trim of a 1/8 at the top of the door by the vent. I used a pair of pliers to slightly bring the lower end together so I could start it past the door window opening. This is where the friend will come in - you will need to fit your arm through the large opening and feel as you push the accordion felt into place, make sure to seat it at the bottom on the brace BEHIND the clip. The using your hand, push the felt into the channel, you will need to use a bit of pressure to seat it correctly, but it hold in place very nicely. Leave the top section stand freely, you will seat it in a later step.

[jbgroby]

Step 6: Regulator Mounting

Next you need to install the window regulator (This goes behind the vent window brace and must be installed first.) You need to slip the assembly into the door mounting it with 4 - ¼” by 20 by ½” long screws with anti-slip exterior tooth star washers – like it originally had. I bought new. You will need to get the lower left roller in the channel.

[jbgroby]

Step 7: Vent Window Installation

Next you can install the vent window assembly. You need to turn the assembly 90 degrees in order to slip the lower bracket past the opening. Take your time, this is where you’ll earn a scratch or two if not careful. Once in place, install 1 screw in the top and 1 screw in the bottom bracket, to hole it in place. Make sure you can cycle the vent to see how she operates. There are 4 screws that hold the top section in place (2 on top of the door and 2 on the front) and 2 screws for the bottom section of the brace. You will use the bottom screws after the next step.

[jbgroby]

Step 8: Fitting the Window into the Rear and Front Felt Channels

You will most probably need help with this step, but I did it myself with only leaving 1 piece of skin on the truck . You need to lift the glass up making sure you get the glass in the rear felt channel and the front vent channel; you will find that you need to pull the vent channel back a little to get the glass in. That why you did not set the lower screws in the previous step. Once you have the glass in both channels, install the 2 screws in the lower vent channel bracket to secure it in place

[jbgroby]

Step 9: Attaching the Regulator to the Glass Frame

Ok, so far it’s been a bit long, but this step may find you cussing a little. You now need to fit the upper rollers in the window grove channel. BUT HOW YOU ASK - AS THEY DON’T MATCH UP. You will need to undo the two screws holding the groove to the window frame, have your helper hold onto the window in case it wants to slip, but I found that the tension and the felt held mine in place. You then slide the grooved channel over both rollers, you work the channel back and forth till you can get over the rollers and reset the screws. You will need to roll the regulator up sill it in the position shown. This seems hard but it is not. Once you put the screws back, you need to cycle the window a few times to see if it binds. Sometime a bit of graphite may be needed in the groves.

[jbgroby]

Step 10: Setting the Door Edge Felts.

This step is where most folks seem to get upset because the aftermarket manufacturers can’t quite get this design right. They ALL seem to want to prevent the windows from rolling up to the full close, (stops it about 1/8 short of the very top position, the window is closed just not 100%. There is not a whole lot we can do except live with it. If another trucker has found a better set of felts, please let us know.

You need to roll the window down to the lowest possible position, this should clear the bottom of the window frame and dry test fit the strips against the door WITHOUT pressing into place. Note you will have a curved section that goes toward the rear of the window. I found by cutting approximately ½“off of the rear section allowed me to fit the parts on better.

Once you are satisfied of the placement, I used a plastic handle to press the felts in.

[jbgroby]

LAST STEP!!! Test the action and grab a cigar and beer for a JOB WELL DONE!!

[vetnat]

Thanks for the write up. This task will be in my future on my '61. I got my weather stripping type parts from Classic Industries.

[GMCNUT]

I sure appreciate this set of helpful tips - timing is good for my own 61 project we are going to be installing glass in soon....thanks Jake!

[1963c-10]

Great write up!!

[jbgroby]

Glad to help, I can't remember all theany times folks ha e helped me over the years.

Jake

[jbgroby]

EDIT TO THIS POST.

While ALL the steps above are correct, I discovered that the AFTERMARKET, regulators for the windows have very poor design crank splines for the handle and will slip almost at the first time any resistance is met.

I've found and bought a complete OEM Window Regulators from RJ Sisneros to replace both sides as well as the latch remote control as it would not fully work the latch release.

I HIGHLY recommend you use the OEM parts if you have them!

[vin63]

This is what pushed me to go the power window route..after realizing that my OE regulators were beyond restoration, I tried two different window regulators and neither would roll the glass all the way up. I agree, the OE door parts are way better than the re-pops.