04-23-2017, 11:29 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: albuquerque New Mexico
Posts: 522
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no spark
I may be an idiot sir but if there is one thing I am not sir its an idiot. so here's what I have. my truck caught fire a few months ago when a fuel injector cracked. I'm swapping in a quick fuel carb so I can start driving again. Initially I couldn't get the electric fuel pump t work right. it worked for a few minutes and I was able to fire the truck and let it idle for about 10 minutes before a burnt wire I had missed when I replaced the burned wires snapped. I replaced that wire and the fuel pump still didn't work. I was annoyed and confused. after screwing with that for about 4 days I decided it was dumb to be stumped by a fuel pump and ditched the electric and installed a mechanical pump. I mean why not its a carb now. completed the install of the fuel pump and now I have fuel but no spark. I cant think of anything I removed that would affect the spark? I double checked the firing order. I made sure my kill switch was correct. what should I try next? I don't have a lot of experience in this area and could use some advice. you may have to explain it as if your teaching a 10 year old. naw that would be silly. a 13 year old is about right.
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04-24-2017, 01:43 AM | #2 |
Post Whore
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Alabama
Posts: 14,670
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Re: no spark
A little more history of what your actually working on would be helpful..but I'm guessing if you had a fire is gonna be a shorted out necked or broken wire or blown fuse caused by necked wire..gonna have to start tracing em down..check for switch on power to your distributor..a electric fuel pump is usually a nobrainer..power and ground..
Also might want to move this to the engine section for more better answers.. |
04-26-2017, 08:17 PM | #3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: phoenix az
Posts: 723
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Re: no spark
a couple things.....
1. what year truck? The early trucks had an ignition resistor under the hood, and the resistor is bypassed in the start position, but powered in the "run" position. The bypass is accomplished by the other terminal on the starter solenoid, not the S terminal. If you removed the extra wire on the starter solenoid, put it back on, cause here's what happens: In start, the ignition switch turns off the power to the coil. THe starter solenoid engages the starter, and powers the coil in start, without that wire going from the starter solenoid, the coil has no power, engine does not start 2. Later trucks used an ignition wire that is resistance wire to the coil from the ignition switch. If you turn the key to "on" and check for voltage at the coil, you should get volts. If you don't, pull the ignition switch out, and check for volts on the same resistance wire that goes to the coil. Later trucks have fusible links. they come in 10, 15, 20, 25, 30 amp ratings. if you have a later truck, make sure your fusible links are good, or your ignition circuit will be dead. any questions, let me know
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http://http://67-72chevytrucks.com/v...d.php?t=489721 Last edited by Coupeguy2001; 04-26-2017 at 08:25 PM. |
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