Stubborn tie rod end removal

[Ol'Blue70]

I've been working on the steering of my '70 C20. I'm replacing all the tie rods, and have gotten three of the four out using the traditional methods (tie rod separator fork, loosening the castle nut and tapping it with a hammer, etc.), but the drivers outer tie rod is being very stubborn. I've soaked it with penetrating oil several times. I've hammered on it for over an hour. I even got out my propane torch and heated it up, but nothing seems to be working.

Does anyone have any good ideas?

[truckster]

I've recently been there. My solution was just more heat. Keep applying the heat and it should eventually come off. Sorry I don't have an easier answer.

[BlueBullet]

Have you tried pounding the side of where end goes in. If I can't get it to pop with fork give it a good wrap on the side

[67swb72klb]

I use a 3 or 4 Lb hammer and hit it on the side like said above...

[saxart]

I had one that gave me problems. Hit it for probably 20 minutes straight. Out of frustration I put down the 3lb hammer and picked up a 5lb hammer. One pop and it came loose. I'm not sure what that was all about...

[KQQL IT]

Bigger hammer.

[Ol'Blue70]

Thanks guys! Looks like I need a bigger hammer, and I'll start hitting it on the side.

[Stocker]

No hot wrench so I pounded on 'em with a BFH, no luck at all. Then I bought, ruined, and returned a pickle fork from NAPA, then one from Oreilly's. Beat on 'em with an 8-pound sledge and the forks just spread apart. Then the heads came off. Got the rental (free loaner as it turned out) pickle fork from Oreilly's. It was thicker heavier and stronger. Took a few good whacks and the job was done. Good luck with yours, those devils can be stubborn.

[ShortCST]

Heat, penetrating lubricant, big hammer... Nothing worked. Pickle fork did nothing but frustrate me further. This was what saved me in the end:

So easy.

[KQQL IT]

Or the always fun for the neighbors, the almighty air hammer.
Noise and destruction for days.

[toolboxchev]

Acetylene Torch, then cold water hose. Repeat three times and call the doctor in the morning.

Works every time.

[lutronjim]

Mechanic friend of mine said that in absence of heat, use two heavy hammers - one held against one side and then strike the opposite side.

[Alex V.]

Originally Posted by saxart

I had one that gave me problems. Hit it for probably 20 minutes straight. Out of frustration I put down the 3lb hammer and picked up a 5lb hammer. One pop and it came loose. I'm not sure what that was all about...

A bigger hammer can seriously cut it where a smaller one won't. I'd probably put a jack stand under the knuckle as close to the TRE as possible, so the suspension and knuckle casting doesn't give when hit and the force isn't all going through that casting, and smack the stud end pretty hard with a sledge hammer.

[81turbota]

With the right tools they'll come apart. Only once have I had to cut a ball joint and take it to a shop for removal.

95% of the time (for me), this tool will take care of tie rods. I use my 1/2 drive electric impact to operate it. Using one of these with a hand ratchet doesn't work nearly as well, the impact makes a huge difference. Get it tight and then give the surrounding knuckle a few whacks with a 2lb hammer and then a little more persuasion from the impact will pop them loose. I had the tie rod and drag link off of my 71 blazer in 10 minutes.

Wear safety glasses!!!! the cheap version of one of these separators broke on me and sent a small shard flying. Grease the threads or you run the risk of galling it up from the impact. Buy USA made if you can.



For the other 5%, you'll need heat and a bigger hammer as mentioned. 4lb hand sledges are great. Jam a pickle fork in there, heat it up, beat on the pickle fork, a few solid hits on the surrounding knuckle, apply heat, beat fork repeat. Keep the castle nut on a few threads for anything that's under spring load.


Good luck!

[TheRocket]

When you put it back together, do what a mechanic did to my '71. Weld that castle nut to the tie rod end.

No kidding. Other mechanics tell me he welds lots of things he shouldn't weld.