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09-09-2017, 02:51 PM | #1 |
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Location: Federal Way, WA
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Trying to figure out how my 68 C10 was lowered
The back end of my truck is very bouncy. Just putting one foot on the bumper and pushing lightly, the truck just bounces up and down like jello. The front looks like it has stock spindles on it, and the rear looks uniformly dirty and rusty. Do you guys see how this thing was lowered? Did the PO just cut the coils on all 4 corners? Thanks in advance.
Front Side Profile Rear Side Profile Front Coil & Spindle Rear Coil and Trailing Arm |
09-09-2017, 03:18 PM | #2 |
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Re: Trying to figure out how my 68 C10 was lowered
From what I can see I think the springs have been repaced the rear dont look stock and is the truck bounces I'd be replacing the shocks they are supposed to absorb enery and stop the bouncing.
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I was hooked on these trucks since 1982 when I drove my budys fathers 1968 Custum GMC 396 automatic dana 60 rear with a power lock diff what a ride more fun then we will we can ever tell!! |
09-09-2017, 07:58 PM | #3 |
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Re: Trying to figure out how my 68 C10 was lowered
Does someone need to resize pics?
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09-09-2017, 08:05 PM | #4 |
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Re: Trying to figure out how my 68 C10 was lowered
You need rear shock relocators and drop shock to fix the angle of your rear shock. They aren't working like that.
Also need an adjustable panhard bar to Re-center the rearend. I bet you have a 3/5 drop with springs only. That's only half of the stuff you need to make it ride good. Drop spindles are needed if you want to go lower.
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09-09-2017, 08:34 PM | #5 | |
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Re: Trying to figure out how my 68 C10 was lowered
Quote:
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09-09-2017, 10:40 PM | #6 |
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Re: Trying to figure out how my 68 C10 was lowered
....those are damn big pics.
Coley
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09-10-2017, 12:59 AM | #7 |
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Re: Trying to figure out how my 68 C10 was lowered
Sorry for the big pics, didn't know they would be as big as they are.
So in order to have a truck that rides well, and I'm not afraid to load it with crap, what is the best method? Rear shock relocators make sense, but that wouldn't really help with such a soft suspension, would it? I thought that if the vehicle bounces more than once, that was the shock. But if the car was very spongy and bouncy, that was the coils. If i were to get the CPP 3/5 drop coil kit, with the shock relocator kit, pan hard bar, and coils/shocks, that wouldn't make it any lower than it already is, right? I'm thinking that if I did that, I would have a truck and handles better and have known components. Plus, they're shiny and clean, which is always nice too |
09-10-2017, 09:18 AM | #8 |
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Re: Trying to figure out how my 68 C10 was lowered
The 3/5 kit may actually raise you up just a tad. But idk. Those springs look like they have been heated before.
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09-10-2017, 12:14 PM | #9 |
67-72 parts collector,…
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Re: Trying to figure out how my 68 C10 was lowered
I bet those are already 3/5 springs.
Probably CPP because everyone buys there junk based on price. You might as well take those rear shocks off. They aren't doing anything but pivoting on the bolts. Call ECE. www.earlyclassic.com Also search reviews for CPP and ECE. You will be surprised how far apart they are on the review scale.
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09-10-2017, 02:25 PM | #10 |
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Re: Trying to figure out how my 68 C10 was lowered
Your shocks appear to currently be in an almost horizontal position. Shocks are not designed to function in that position which means you are basically riding on the rear springs hence the bouncing. The shock relocator brackets allow the shocks to be moved to a more correct vertical/upright position so they can function as designed.
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09-10-2017, 02:37 PM | #11 |
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Re: Trying to figure out how my 68 C10 was lowered
Here are the two relevant pics resized for better viewing...
Your rear shocks need to be both replaced and relocated for correct angle... kits are available from several vendors...you may also need shorter shocks so they dont bottom out in compression. You will also need an adjustable track bar to re-position the rear axle on tha chassis center line. You have little rear axle travel left...you may have a c section your chassis if you want more travel or go lower. The front has less than an inch of travel until bump stop bottoms out...suggest dropped spindles if you want to go lower...some folk cut the bump stops in half to give more travel... |
09-10-2017, 02:39 PM | #12 |
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Re: Trying to figure out how my 68 C10 was lowered
I've been wanting to look at the pics since last night, but I'm still waiting for them to finish loading
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09-10-2017, 02:52 PM | #13 |
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Re: Trying to figure out how my 68 C10 was lowered
Here are the other two pics resized...
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09-10-2017, 03:18 PM | #14 | |
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Re: Trying to figure out how my 68 C10 was lowered
Quote:
At this point, I'm really thinking about doing rear air bags, since I do use this truck regularly to make dump runs and stuff. One of the vendors has a kit for 2 Dominator 2600 bags + brackets for $244. It'd be nice to be able to pump up the rear when I'm hauling stuff. I haven't noticed it bottom out yet, even when loaded with crap, but it does feel pretty washy. I know that without bags, I'll never have a low truck that maintains capacity to haul and tow as much as a stock height truck, especially one with HD springs. |
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