Testing Blower mtr resistor & relay - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

gman · 04-19-2004, 05:27 PM

Tearing apart my dash and replacing AC hoses and control cables and am wondering if there is a way to test the blower motor relay and resister to determine if they are OK or if they need to be replaced. I will probably just replace them but would like to know if they can be tested to see if they are waisted or not......if they aren't shot, I'll keep them for backups. Not sure if this is possible though. Anybody know a way to test them? The compressor clutch switch is burnt all to hell so that will be replaced as well. Anything else I should do while I have the whole dash and ductwork apart? I'll also be replacing the glovebox and lubing up the doors inside the ductwork.. Thanks.

Gordo · 04-19-2004, 09:37 PM

If your blower motor was operating at all speeds, the resister is doing it's job.

Longhorn Man · 04-19-2004, 11:54 PM

I'd say replace the resister, it is a PITA to do once the ducting and glove box are all installed.
The relays don't go bad very often, and are readily accesable when assembled (if memory serves...I don't have an A/C truck anymore) I'd leave that alone.

JimKshortstep4x4 · 04-20-2004, 09:05 AM

It would be a good idea to check the diverter box door as they don't hold up well.

Jim

04-19-2004, 05:27 PM	#1
gman Registered User Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Ogden, Utah Posts: 290	Testing Blower mtr resistor & relay Tearing apart my dash and replacing AC hoses and control cables and am wondering if there is a way to test the blower motor relay and resister to determine if they are OK or if they need to be replaced. I will probably just replace them but would like to know if they can be tested to see if they are waisted or not......if they aren't shot, I'll keep them for backups. Not sure if this is possible though. Anybody know a way to test them? The compressor clutch switch is burnt all to hell so that will be replaced as well. Anything else I should do while I have the whole dash and ductwork apart? I'll also be replacing the glovebox and lubing up the doors inside the ductwork.. Thanks. __________________ 72 Chevy SWB Custom Deluxe K10, 350/SM465, PS, PB, Fact. Air 2000 Harley...Wide Glide

04-19-2004, 09:37 PM	#2
Gordo Registered User Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Killingworth, CT. USA Posts: 3,378	If your blower motor was operating at all speeds, the resister is doing it's job. __________________ 1971 C10 swb stepside 350/700R4/3.73posi (retired as of 4/22/03) 1998 S10 short bed 2002 S10 Blazer 1942 Oldsmobile 1958 Massey Harris Pony 1951 Wife Killingworth, Connecticut May those who love us, love us, any of those who do not love us, may God turn their hearts. And if God is unable to turn their hearts, may he turn their ankles so we may know them by their limping. A man who works with his hands is a laborer; a man who works with his hands and his brain is a craftsman; but a man who works with his hands and his brain and his heart is an artist.

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04-19-2004, 11:54 PM	#3
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,690	I'd say replace the resister, it is a PITA to do once the ducting and glove box are all installed. The relays don't go bad very often, and are readily accesable when assembled (if memory serves...I don't have an A/C truck anymore) I'd leave that alone.

04-20-2004, 09:05 AM	#4
JimKshortstep4x4 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Muskegon,MI,USA Posts: 6,026	It would be a good idea to check the diverter box door as they don't hold up well. Jim



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